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Kitabı oku: «Beeton's Book of Needlework», sayfa 16

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The ground of this simple pattern is worked in point d'esprit, square wheels are worked in the centre of the strip.

558 to 563.–Different Strips of Insertion, Rosettes and Lace, in Guipure d'Art.

Materials: Fine white cotton; Messrs. Waiter Evans and Co.'s Mecklenburg thread Nos. 16 and 20.

These strips of insertion, rosettes, and borders are very suitable for ornamenting lingeries, cravats, &c. The ground of insertion, Nos. 558 and 560, is worked with fine white cotton over a fine steel knitting-needle, in slanting netting, and darned with thread in the manner seen in illustrations. The ground of each strip is 11 rounds wide, and worked with button-hole stitch along the edges; the darned patterns can be worked from illustration.

For the rosette, No. 560, cast on 6 stitches over a fine knitting-needle, and join the stitches into a circle; in the 1st round work 2 stitches in every stitch. In the 2nd–5th rounds work 2 stitches in every increased stitch of the preceding round, and in every other stitch 1 stitch. In the 6th round take a steel knitting-needle double the size of the first, and work over it 1 stitch in every stitch of the preceding round. Then work the 7th round over the fine needle as follows:–

Draw always the second stitch of 2 stitches through the first, and work 1 stitch in the stitch which has been drawn through the first, and then 1 stitch through the other stitch. In the 8th round work always 2 stitches in the stitch between the 2 crossed stitches, 1 stitch in all the other stitches. Lastly, darn the rosette, from illustration, with fine glazed cotton.

For the ground of the rosettes, illustrations Nos. 562 and 563, cast on 6 stitches, join the stitches into a circle, and work then in the 1st round 2 stitches in every stitch; in the following 8 rounds 2 stitches in every increased stitch, in all the other stitches 1 stitch. The last (10th) round is worked without increasing. Then darn the rosettes, from illustrations, with thread in darning stitch, linen stitch, and point d'esprit. The edges of the two rosettes are worked round in button-hole stitch; in every selvedge stitch work 3 button-hole stitches. These two rosettes can be joined together for small couvrettes.

The ground of the border, No. 561, is formed by a strip of straight netting 9 squares wide, cut out in vandykes on one side, and worked round in button-hole stitch, as seen in illustration. This ground is darned, from No. 561, in darning stitch, point d'esprit, linen stitch, and ornamented with bars and wheels (See illustration).

564 and 565.–Corner Borders in Guipure d'Art.

Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Mecklenburg thread No. 20 for handkerchief, or No. 8 for couvrettes.

These corner borders are suitable for handkerchiefs, couvrettes, &c., or as strips of insertion for cushions or pillowcases. They are worked with more or less fine cotton, according to the use they are meant for. They are edged round with button-hole stitch on the outside, and finished off with a row of crochet purl. Work 1 double in every button-hole stitch; after every other stitch draw out the loop on the needle about one-tenth of an inch; take out the needle and leave the loop as a purl; take up 1 loop in last double stitch, and cast it off with the next double stitch.

566.–Jewel Case, forming Pincushion.

Materials: Deal box; satin ruche; satin ribbon; quilted satin and silk cord; guipure netting.

This case consists of a square cardboard or deal box, lined with satin, and slightly quilted; it is also covered on the top with satin, and ornamented all round with a satin ruche four-fifths of an inch wide, pleated in the manner seen in illustration. The top of the box is stuffed so as to form a pincushion. It is then covered with guipure d'art No. 567. Ornament all round with silk cords, and at the corners with bows of satin ribbon.

567.–Guipure Pattern for Jewel Case.

Materials: Netting 25 holes square; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Mecklenburg thread No. 14.

This cover is worked in point d'esprit, point de toile, point de reprise, and point de feston. Thick dots are introduced occasionally.

568.–Parasol Cover in Guipure d'Art. (See page 580.)

Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Mecklenburg thread No. 20, and cotton No. 80.

For working this cover, one part of which is shown in our illustration two-thirds of its full size, work first a straight strip of netting for the foundation, which must count as many holes in width as are required for the width of the covering. The size of the holes depends on the size of the knitting-needle or mesh which you use. The pattern is worked with cotton No. 80, over a steel knitting-needle which measures two-fifths of an inch round. Begin the strip in one corner. Cast on 2 stitches, and work in rows backwards and forwards, increasing 1 stitch at the end of every row, till you have 1 stitch more than the stripe is to have holes in width, on our pattern 68 stitches; then work 1 row on the same number of stitches, and then increase alternately 1 stitch at the end of 1 row, and decrease 1 at the end of the next, till the strip is 250 stitches long. The strip is finished off in a straight line at the bottom by working a certain number of rows in which the last stitch remains untouched. At the beginning of the row do not work 1 stitch ever the mesh, but only 1 knot in the stitch of the preceding row, so that the cotton is drawn on tight. When the strip is completed, trace from No. 568 the outlines for the pattern of each of the eight parts of the parasol with double thread, in such a manner that two parts lie next to each other, but reversed, that is, the point of one part must lie next to the wide part of the next part. Then work in each part the pattern seen in illustration, and afterwards each part round with button-hole stitch, working over the double outline. Cut out the different parts, and sew them together on the wrong side with close overcast stitch.

569.–Scent Sachet in Guipure d'Art.

Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Mecklenburg thread No. 18; green satin; poudre d'iris; green satin ribbon; green silk cord.

The size of the netting depends on that of the sachet. The netting must be fastened in a frame, and darned with fine thread; the flowers are worked in darning stitch, and the ground in point d'esprit. The cushion is made of green satin, perfumed with poudre d'iris. When the netting has been fastened on, it is edged all round with a green satin ruche, and green silk cord, forming loops at every corner.

570.–Square in Guipure d'Art.

Materials: Netted square of 26 stitches; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Mecklenburg thread No. 12.

This pattern is worked in point d'esprit, edged with an outline of point de reprise. This outline may be worked in close button-hole stitch. Point de toile is used for the groundwork, upon which point de reprise is worked.

571 and 572.–Work Case in Guipure d'Art.

Materials: Blue satin; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Mecklenburg thread No. 16; blue silk cord.

This little work-case, of darned netting and blue satin, is five inches and four-fifths long, four inches wide, and is fastened with a loop and button. The back, front, side, and the flap are worked all in one piece. The netting is worked with white thread No. 12, over a mesh measuring at least two-fifths of an inch round. For the flap the netting must be slanted off on both sides; this is done either by decreasings, or by cutting off the corners of the work. The latter is then darned in linen stitch, darning stitch, and point d'esprit, from No. 572, which shows the front of the case, and from No. 571, which shows the back. The netting is then lined with blue satin, and sewn together at the sides with button-hole stitches on the right side. The flap is edged with button-hole stitch; sew on a small button, and make a small loop to correspond. The case is edged all round with blue silk cord.

573.–Banner Screen in Guipure d'Art.

Materials: Netting; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Mecklenburg thread No. 12; carved oak stand; glacé silk; cords; tassels.

Banner-screens are used in two ways, either suspended from the mantelpiece or mounted as shown in illustration No. 573. The banner is 23 inches long, 19 inches wide, lined with coloured glacé silk, and edged with a lace border of guipure d'art. The design for the banner is given in page 554. Work the netting for the groundwork over a larger or smaller mesh, according to the size you wish it to be. The pattern is worked in point d'esprit, point de reprise, and point de toile. When the pattern is completed, line the banner with coloured silk, edge with a gathered border of guipure d'art, finish with coloured silk cords and tassels. The banner may be finished off in close button-hole stitch, instead of adding the lace border.

575.–Border in Guipure d'Art.

Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Mecklenburg thread No. 8.

This border is suited for couvrettes. It is worked in point d'esprit, point de reprise, or plain darning stitch, edged by a row of button-hole, and finished with a crochet edging.

576.–Square in Guipure d'Art.

Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Mecklenburg thread No. 12; netted square of 20 holes.

This pretty square is worked in a pattern formed by point de feston, point de toile, and point de reprise, the star in the centre as that shown on page 514, omitting the alternate points; border of point d'esprit, ground worked in simple crossed bars. Table of the right size of Mecklenburg thread to use in working:–

FRAMES

May be obtained for large, middle-size, and small squares.

Oblong frames are used for working insertions and lace edgings.

BERLIN WORK

BERLIN WORK INSTRUCTIONS

Berlin Work includes every kind of stitch which is made upon canvas with wool, silk, or beads. The principal stitches used are common cross stitch, Gobelin stitch, leviathan stitch, raised or velvet stitch, tent stitch, and others. The materials and needle must always be carefully chosen of a corresponding size. For common cross stitch and raised stitch Penelope canvas must be used; for small articles, such as slippers, bags, or borders, single Berlin wool is preferable; for larger ones fleecy wool or double Berlin wool (the latter, however, is much more expensive). For Gobelin stitch and tent stitch undivided canvas (not Penelope) is required. Purse silk is often used for the latter; it is more brilliant than floss silk or filoselle. Floss silk is generally used for other stitches because it covers the thread of the canvas better than purse silk; it is, however, often replaced by filoselle, which is a much cheaper material. Moss wool is hardly ever used. Before beginning to work upon a piece of canvas the raw edges must be hemmed or sewn over with wool. Care must be taken not to crumple the canvas in the course of the work. It is best to roll one end of the canvas upon a round piece of deal while the other end is kept down upon the table with a lead cushion. Handsome artistic patterns should always be worked in a frame. When you undertake to work a large pattern begin in the centre, and complete one half before you commence the other. Always work the stitches in the same direction, from the top downwards–this is very essential to the beauty and regularity of the pattern.

Always begin with the colour which is used the oftenest; those colours that lose their dye in working must be put in last. When the pattern is finished begin the grounding. The wool must not be drawn too tightly, otherwise the threads of the canvas appear. If the wool is too coarse for the canvas, one long stitch is to be made from left to right as far as the particular colour is to be worked, and over this long stitch, cross back in the usual way.

The plainest stitch in Berlin wool work is the common cross stitch; illustrations 577 to 584 show varieties of the same.

We now proceed in the following pages to show, by description in writing and by most careful illustration, all the stitches which are used in Berlin Work. These are numerous, but neither too great in number nor too simple or too elaborate in execution for those who aspire to become Berlin workers.

ILLUSTRATION 577.–The common cross stitch is worked in rows backwards and forwards over 2 threads in height and 2 in width (square of the canvas) in straight lines; the 1st row is worked from left to right; the 2nd row, which completes the stitches, from right to left. Illustration 577 shows 2 rows of completed stitches and 1 row in course of working.

ILLUSTRATION 578 shows the long cross stitch. It is worked like the preceding one, only over 4 threads in height and 2 in width.

ILLUSTRATION 579 shows a long cross stitch, which is worked like the preceding one, except that 2 threads are missed between 2 stitches, and in the next row the stitches are worked between those in the preceding row. This stitch is not worked in rows backwards and forwards; each stitch is completed before beginning the next.

ILLUSTRATION 580.–The long slanting cross stitch is worked like No. 578, in rows backwards and forwards; the 1st row is slanting, the 2nd is straight. The places for inserting the needle and for drawing it out are marked on the illustration with a cross and dot.

ILLUSTRATION 581.–The damask stitch is worked in single rows from left to right, over 4 threads in height and 2 in width. The stitches of one row come between those of the next. The cross and dot shown in illustration are where to insert and draw out the needle.

ILLUSTRATION 582 shows the rep stitch–a variety of the preceding. The first half of it is worked slantways over 6 threads in height and 2 in width, the second half, like the common cross stitch, from right to left over the 3rd and 4th of the 6 canvas threads; each stitch is completed at once. The illustration shows the last stitch being worked; the first half of the stitch is completed; the dot shows where the needle must be inserted for the second half; it is drawn out where the cross is placed on illustration.

ILLUSTRATION 583.–The leviathan stitch consists of 1 slanting and 1 straight cross stitch over 4 threads in height and 4 in width. Each stitch is completed immediately. No. 583 shows one half of the stitch completed and the wool as it must be placed for working the first half of the straight cross stitch.

ILLUSTRATION 584.–The leviathan stitch is worked exactly like the preceding, only the stitches are not worked on the same threads in the different rows, as may be seen from illustration.

ILLUSTRATION 585.–The double leviathan stitch is a variety of the preceding; it is worked over 6 threads in height and as many in width. Make a common cross stitch over these 6 threads, then a long cross stitch in height and a long cross stitch in width. Illustration 585 shows 2 stitches completed and 1 being worked.

ILLUSTRATION 586.–Tent stitch. Each stitch is worked over 1 stitch in height and 1 in width, and is worked in rows from left to right.

ILLUSTRATION 587.–The slanting Gobelin stitch is worked on undivided canvas; each stitch is worked over 3 threads in height and 2 in width, divided from the next stitch only by an interval of 1 thread.

ILLUSTRATION 588.–The straight Gobelin stitch is worked over 2 threads in height with 1 thread between, so that the stitches appear more raised; they are worked over thin cord or a thick piece of wool.

ILLUSTRATION 589.–The raised or velvet stitch is worked over small round wooden meshes, and forms small raised loops. Take 2 similar meshes and as many threaded needles as there are colours in the work; make first a slanting stitch, as for the beginning of the common cross stitch, but instead of drawing out the needle straight under the place where it was inserted, draw it out exactly at the same place, so as to form a slanting stitch on the right and on the wrong side; then begin to work over 1 mesh; insert the needle above it and draw it out in a slanting direction underneath. On the wrong side of the work a regular cross stitch is formed. Illustration 589 shows 2 rows of velvet stitch completed and 2 rows being worked; the first of the latter is yet on the mesh, the second being worked so as to show the position of the wool upon the mesh. Observe that the rows of the velvet stitch are worked upwards, and that 2 meshes are necessary, because the lower one must not be drawn out before the next row is completed. The loops may be cut open if preferred.

ILLUSTRATION 590.–The plaited stitch is worked like the herring-bone stitch. Each stitch is worked over 4 threads in height and 4 in width. Illustration 590 shows one part of the plaited stitch completed, and the place where the needle is to be inserted for the next stitch is marked by a dot. For the next stitch the needle is carried under the 2 threads below the stitches of the preceding row.

ILLUSTRATION 591.–The plush stitch is also worked upwards. Begin to work a common cross stitch, then insert the needle through the canvas over 2 threads in height and 2 in width, downwards in a slanting direction. Do not draw the wool close up, but leave a loop hanging down about four-fifths of an inch long, and make 1 more common cross stitch to fasten the loop. This stitch can also be worked over flat meshes. Work a common cross stitch at the end of every row. When the work is completed the loops are cut open and clipped, as may be seen from illustration.

ILLUSTRATIONS 592 to 594.–Three Berlin wool work borders for trimming baskets, &c. No. 592.–The 2 outer rows which edge the border are worked in long straight cross stitch; each stitch is crossed in the centre with a back stitch.

The grounding consists of 2 rows of vandykes placed opposite each other, which are formed of long straight stitches of different lengths. The squares in the centre are formed in the same way, and are completed in the middle with a knot.

No. 593.–The ground is worked in cross stitch, the raised patterns in satin stitch; in the middle of each pattern there is a cross stitch. The outer rows are worked in half cross stitch over 2 threads in height and 4 in width in 2 different shades. No. 594.–The petals of the flowers are worked over 4 threads in height and in width, and consisting of 4 slanting stitches.

In the centre the flower is completed by a knot; the ground in cross stitch is completed on either side by a narrow border of scallops, formed of slanting stitches divided in the centre by 1 slanting stitch. It is easy to work these stitches from illustration. The choice of colours depends upon what use the border is intended for and upon personal taste.