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BY HOOK OR BY CROOK

A Journey

in Search of English

DAVID CRYSTAL


For Hilary, who did most of the driving

Contents

PREFACE

MAP


1 By Hook or by Crook: GAERWEN

2 Making a Beeline: MENAI

3 We Want Information: PORTMEIRION

4 Where are You From?: WELSHPOOL

5 Good Evening, Each: BIRMINGHAM

6 Book-Bro wser Syndrome: HAY

7 Now Godiva was a Lady: LEOMINSTER

8 The Robot’s not Working: RISBURY

9 Who was Leonard Slye?: STRATFORD

10 Shall We Shog?: KOLKATA

11 A Rash of Dermatologists: ARDEN

12 A Wheelbarrow Called Wilberforce: LICHFIELD

13 How do You Like Your Eggs?: SAN FRANCISCO

14 My Husband is Without: LODZ

15 I’m Jack: LLANGOLLEN


ON THE WAY: REFERENCES AND SOURCES

INDEX OF PLACES

INDEX OF PEOPLE AND CHARACTERS

INDEX OF TOPICS

COPYRIGHT

ABOUT THE PUBLISHER

Preface

The inspiration for this book came from reading W. G. Sebald’s The Rings of Saturn, an atmospheric semi-fictional account of a walking tour throughout East Anglia, in which personal reflections, historical allusions, and traveller observations randomly combine into a mesmerizing novel about change, memory, oblivion, and survival. The metaphor of the title – Saturn’s rings created from fragments of shattered moons – captures the fragmentary and stream-of-consciousness flow of the narrative.

I was frequently reminded of the serendipitous nature of language study, when reading that book. Around the next corner is always a new linguistic experience, waiting to be observed. Language is in a state of constant change, with each day bringing new developments. Any linguistic study is a search for the impossible – to say something sensible about the ‘whole’ of a language. I have spent my entire professional life as a university teacher and researcher in linguistics trying to make valid statements about language and languages – and about the English language in particular. Every now and then I feel I have come close to it, and then it leaves me behind, like the soldiers chasing the Ghost in Hamlet –‘ ’Tis here!’ Tis here!’ Tis gone.’ I feel I am always dealing in linguistic half-truths.

My subtitle has other echoes, chiefly of the series of explorations carried out by H. V. Morton in the 1920s and ’30 – In Search of England, In Search of Scotland, In Search of Wales… This is what he writes, in the preface to In Search of England:

I have gone round England like a magpie picking up any bright thing that pleased me. A glance at the route followed will prove that this is not a guide book, and a glance at the contents will expose me to the scorn of local patriots who will see, with incredulous rage, that on many an occasion I have passed silently through their favourite village. That is inevitable. It was a moody holiday, and I followed the roads; some of them led me aright and some astray. The first were the most useful; the others were the most interesting.

This has been my experience too: the linguistic side roads always proved more interesting. And writing this preface having finished the book, I can see that its spirit – and certainly its style – is far more Morton than Sebald.

Both Sebald and Morton had reasons for starting their journeys. I did not. The idea for this book had been wandering around my head for several months, but I had no particular motive to go off on a linguistic journey. After all, where should I go? There was everywhere to choose from, and that was too much. A journey needs a structure, and I didn’t have one.

Then, out of the blue, I was given a reason, and a structure. In 2002 the BBC had initiated an ambitious project to record and celebrate the whole range of present-day British English accents and dialects. The project was called, quite simply, ‘Voices’, and it came to fruition in August 2005, when broadcasters all over the country presented a wide range of programmes in ‘Voices Week’. I had been the project’s linguistics consultant.

It was mainly a radio experience, but a few television programmes were also being made, and in May I was asked to help present one of them, for BBC Wales. The idea was to travel around the principality to find out what was happening to the English accents in the region. My impression was that Anglo- Welsh accents were becoming increasingly diverse. Was this so? And what did people feel about the changes which were taking place? The programme would find out.

And that is how I found myself suddenly faced with a series of ports-of-call, dotted around Wales. Several of them coincided with plans I had already made to visit places in nearby England, such as the Hay Festival, and one week in particular, at the beginning of June, stood out as an especially wide-ranging opportunity. The events of that week, I decided, would act as my structure.

In making a television documentary, there are long chunks of time when there is nothing for a presenter to do, other than wait for the moment when the producer and the film crew have everything ready – the right light, the right angle, the right background… I imagine some presenters read a novel at that point. With me, the linguistic bit of my mind goes walkabout. The spoken and written paraphernalia around me – voices, place-names, signs, noticeboards – trigger all kinds of questions, reflections, and memories. Everything goes into a notebook. My book includes those moments too. They took me all over the English-speaking world.

By Hook or by Crook is a linguistic travelogue. It is an attempt to capture the exploratory, seductive, teasing, quirky, tantalizing nature of language study. Certainly, in both structure and style, it is unlike anything I have written before. My previous published encounters with the English language have ranged from the research monograph to the school textbook, and from highly illustrated encyclopedias to the most unillustrated of dictionaries. But everything, hitherto, has had a tight structure. In each case, I knew where I was going, and where my book would end.

As I began to write By Hook or by Crook, I realized it was not going to be like that. In piecing together my journey, telling my ‘Voices’ story, and researching the answers to my notebook questions, I found still more linguistic side roads that I could not resist exploring. A surprising number of questions have more than one answer. This book includes them all. I suppose it might be called ‘stream-of-consciousness linguistics’.

DAVID CRYSTAL

Holyhead, 2006



BY HOOK OR BY CROOK

1

By Hook or by Crook

GAERWEN

‘It’s a Welsh accent, ye see.’

I looked again at the sheep, and then at the farmer. Was he having me on? His face was old, lined, and very serious. The price of sheep was down today, and he had six ewes at auction. He was not in a joking mood.

All I had wanted to do was start a conversation. I was in Gaerwen sheep market, in the east of Anglesey in North Wales, on a Wednesday morning in June 2005, looking for regional accents. Gaer – wen. That’s ‘fort white’ in Welsh, though there’s no trace of any fort now. The Romans passed through once, so maybe it was one of theirs.

I was travelling all around the country, as part of the BBC ‘Voices’ project, and this was one of the days in the north. The programme researcher had been tasked to find some local people who would interview well. She had found one, in the form of Simon, the Gaerwen auctioneer, and we had arranged to meet him before the day’s auction started. And thus I found myself in the stockyard, surrounded by 1,500 noisy sheep.

The producer wanted ‘actuality’. She gave me a digital tape recorder and suggested I wander round and find interesting people to talk to with typical local voices. That suited me fine. I know what an Anglesey accent sounds like. I was brought up in the county as a child, and live there again now. But it’s one thing knowing an accent, and quite another seeing it in the faces around you. From a phonetic point of view, all faces look the same.

I spotted a good prospect. A tall, craggy man, aged I thought about seventy, who was shepherding some sheep into a pen with his staff. He was one of the oldest farmers there – a classic local accent if ever I saw one. I switched on the tape recorder, and squelched my way towards him, suddenly aware why everyone else in the yard was wearing boots.

He pushed the last ewe into the pen and lugged the gate shut behind it. What should I talk about? I decided to ask him about his staff, which was puzzling me. It was a long, thin pole, and it didn’t have a curved end. I don’t know much about sheep, but I do know that shepherds’ sticks are supposed to have crooks. That’s their name. A shepherd’s crook. Why wasn’t his curved?

He looked at me and my tape recorder and my splattered trousers without any evident emotion.

‘Good morning,’ I said. ‘Nice day.’

‘Ay,’ he replied, ‘it’s a brave morning.’ In a broad Scots voice.

I temporarily lost the power of speech. My crook question fled. I was definitely in Gaerwen, not in Glasgow. If my tape recorder could have spoken, it would have said, in the manner of Hal, the onboard computer in 2001, ‘I don’t think you want to be doing this, Dave.’ Certainly my producer wouldn’t want me collaborating with non- Welsh accents. We were short of time as it was. I looked around. She was nowhere to be seen, so I reckoned I could get away with a few moments of surreptitious conversation.

I just had to find out what was going on. I switched my machine off and took the ram, as it were, by the horns.

‘I’m here making a programme about Welsh accents, but I don’t think I’m asking the right person!’

He laughed. ‘Yee’re right theere, laddie.’

Laddie! I couldn’t remember the last time I was called laddie. Have I ever been called laddie? Still, at age sixty-five, if someone offers you a youth credit, you accept it gladly.

‘So where are you from?’ I asked him.

‘Llanfairpwll,’ he said.

Now, in case you are wondering, Llanfairpwll is not in Scotland. It is a small village in the east of Anglesey. Lots of sheep-farming over that way. A very Welsh area. Its name has archetypal status, as in its full form it is the longest name in the British Isles, with fifty-eight letters. Not in the world – a place in New Zealand is longer.

Place-names like that don’t come up naturally. The historical name of the village was already quite long – Llanfair Pwllgwyngyll – but that was because of the way names work in Wales. I know two men near where I live, Dick Jones who drives a taxi, and Dick Jones who works on the ferry-boats. One is called Dick Jones Taxi and the other Dick Jones Ferry, or Dick Taxi and Dick Ferry for short. It’s the same with place-names. There are lots of places called Llanfair. Llan in Welsh means ‘church’; fair is a form of Mair, ‘Mary’. Together the words mean ‘Mary’s Church’. To distinguish them, something gets added on. The Anglesey Mary’s Church was located by a hollow (pwll). In fact, by a hollow near a white hazel (pwll – gwyn – gyll). So that’s what they called it.

That’s how it was for centuries. Then in the 1800s, the railway was built between Chester and Holyhead, and Llanfair Pwllgwyngyll was on the route. A local committee was formed to think of ways of encouraging the trains, travellers, and tourists to stop there. A cobbler from the nearby town of Menai Bridge came up with the fifty-eight-letter name:

Llanfairpwllgwyngyllgogerychwyrndrobwll-llantysiliogogogoch

The town council adopted it. It was one of the most successful travel marketing ploys ever.

When you live in Anglesey, learning the name by heart is a child rite of linguistic passage. You can then spend the rest of your life correcting English-speakers who say it all wrong apart from the last three syllables. But it isn’t so hard if you remember that w and y are vowels in Welsh, f is pronounced like an English v, and the double-l is exactly like an English l, but without any buzzing of the vocal cords. Try it. Say l, and notice where your tongue is – hard against the ridge behind your top teeth. Keep it there, and just push the air past the sides of your tongue. That’s the Welsh double-l. Then you can go for the name, splitting it up into its meaningful bits:


Llan fair pwll gwyn gyll

Church (of) Mary (in the) hollow (of the) white hazel


goger y chwyrn drobwll llan tysilio gogo goch

near the rapid whirlpool (and) church of (St) Tysilio (by the) red cave.

Locals never use the long name. Life is too short. They even avoid the official shorter version. Instead they abbreviate it, and say either Llanfairpwll or Llanfair P.G.

The full name is actually used as a valid domain name on the Internet. A domain name can have up to sixty-seven characters. They have to be 0 to 9, a to z, or the hyphen. The dot and what follows it count in the total – so, for instance, if your domain name ends in .com, that would be four characters, leaving you with sixty-three. In fact, someone has already registered Llanfair’s full name with an additional five letters in it, making up the sixty-three. The extra five letters are uchaf, which means ‘higher’ in Welsh. It would be like saying ‘Upper Llanfair…’– like Upper Slaughter in the Cotswolds.

Actually, technically, the full Llanfair name has only fifty-one letters, as the double-l counts as a single letter in Welsh. But Internet software usually assumes that all languages work like English.

You can’t beat the ingenuity of the people of Llanfairpwll, though you can try. Years later, another Welsh town, further south, in Cardiganshire, decided to do the same thing, and thought up a sixty-six-letter name. It never caught on. A country can only get away with this kind of creative name-building once.

There’s a joke told about an American tourist who bought a postcard in Llanfairpwll, and stopped for a coffee at the nearby Little Chef. She studied the full name on the card intently, then asked the waitress, ‘Can you tell me how to pronounce the place we’re in?’ And the waitress said, slowly and distinctly: ‘Lit – tle Chef.’

English doesn’t go in for long place-names. Indeed, the language as a whole doesn’t go in for long words. I know there are competitions to find ‘the longest word in English’, and the winners always earn a place in the Guinness Book of Records. But that makes the point, really. Long words are the exceptions, so they fascinate us. Even quite young kids play with them. I learned to say antidisestablishmentarianism when I was nine. I still don’t know what it means. There’s no special interest in long words in Greenland Eskimo, where most of the words are lengthy.

Nobody knows what the longest word in English really is, anyway. That would be a scientific term – probably one of the terms in chemistry for some unbelievably complex molecule. No scientist would ever say it, of course. So when people hold competitions, there is usually a rider – the ‘longest word in an English dictionary’. Which is also a cheat. Dictionaries don’t always agree. If it’s the Oxford English Dictionary (OED), it would be the forty-five-letter

pneumonoultramictoscopicsilicovolcanoconiosis

sometimes spelled with a k instead of its last c. It is a lung disease caused by breathing in particles of siliceous volcanic dust. It is another cheat. It was coined in 1935 by Everett Smith, the president of the US National Puzzlers’ League, purely for the purpose of making sure he had found the longest word.

You can look for the longest word for ever, and not reach agreement about it. Does supercalifragilisticexpialidocious from Mary Poppins count? Or is that excluded because it is a nonsense word? I don’t know.

Llanfairpwll may be recognized as having the longest place-name in the UK, but it isn’t the longest one in English. There are lakes in the USA, named in American Indian languages, which are much longer. And there is the eighty-five-letter monster in New Zealand, coming from Maori. But there’s nothing to match it in the UK. The nearest is the eighteen-letter Blakehopeburnhaugh, a hamlet in the Redesdale Forest in Northumberland. The name is a combination of four words of Old English origin – ‘black’ + ‘valley’ + ‘stream’ + ‘area of flat riverside land’. I think it’s the longest. I haven’t found anywhere longer with Anglo-Saxon (as opposed to Celtic) origins – yet.

If you go there – as a linguist would, just to see – you might notice a sign to Cottonshopeburnfoot, half a mile up the valley, and think to yourself, wait a minute, that’s got nineteen letters. But spaces and hyphens aren’t usually allowed to count, when you’re searching for long place-names. It has to be a single word. And on the Ordnance Survey map this place is written Cottonshopeburn Foot.

You could cheat, of course, and let hyphens in. Then you will find Stratton-on-the-Fosse in Somerset, Winchester-on-the-Severn in Maryland, and a host of others. I don’t know what the longest hyphenated place-name is in England. Someone will probably write and tell me. I’d like to know. It would be another piece fitted into the jigsaw puzzle of facts that make up the English language.

The valley of Redesdale is an interesting place. It has for centuries been an important route from England into Scotland. Today it contains the A68, winding its way towards Jedburgh and Edinburgh. Spectacular scenery, well worth a leisurely drive. The road crosses the border six miles to the north-west of Carter Bar.

Carter Bar was the scene of one of the last battles fought between the English and the Scots – the so-called Redeswire Fray. A fray is a ‘fight’. It’s a shortened version of the word affray. Neither word is used much now, except in legal contexts. But it may be getting a new lease of life. It is the name of a UK rock band as well as of a fantasy comic- book by Joss Whedon, the creator of the TV show Buffy the Vampire Slayer.

The fight was in 1575. The Warden of the English Marches had an argument with the Keeper of Liddesdale, and it escalated into a violent confrontation. Several men were killed. The English had the worst of it. The irony is that the meeting took place on a day of truce, and both men had been employed to keep the peace on their own side of the border.

I knew my Scottish farmer was local when he said ‘Llanfairpwll’. Only locals say that. Moreover, he said the Welsh ‘double-l’ very accurately. He had obviously lived here long enough to master it. But that didn’t make sense. How could he have lived here so long and yet kept his Scottish accent so strong?

‘How long have you been in Anglesey, then?’ I asked him.

‘I came here in ’65.’

I did a swift calculation. That’s forty years.

‘And where did you grow up?’

‘Near Galashiels.’

I’d been there. It’s just a few miles north of Jedburgh. On a road off the A68.

‘How come you’ve not lost your accent?’

‘I reckon I was too old to change. I was in me forties when I got here.’

In his forties. How old was this man!

He was right. An accent would be thoroughly established by then, and it would take a huge change in circumstances to shift it. Accents exist to express your identity. They tell people where you are from. And they get established very early in life. Children have them by the age of three. New accents come easily during childhood and into the teenage years. When a family moves from one part of the country to another, it’s invariably the children who pick up the new accent first.

But no accent is immune from its surroundings. And, indeed, in the old farmer’s voice I could hear the occasional Welsh lilt. I wanted to hear more of it. So I asked him about his stick.

‘I always thought shepherds had crooks,’ I said.

‘Ay,’ he said, ‘that’s true, but I haven’t meself for quite a while.’

He paused. ‘Did ye know that there are different kinds of crooks?’

He said the word with a long oo, asin croon.

I had to confess I didn’t. My definition of crook would be a stick with one end bent into a hooked sort of shape. I was vague about why. The linguist in me suggested a link with by hook or by crook, but I couldn’t immediately think of a good reason why this phrase should have come into existence.

The next five minutes was a tutorial on crooks. I hadn’t realised crook-making was such a precise craft. And I hadn’t realised that classic crooks have hooks at both ends, one larger than the other. One end is large enough to catch hold of a sheep’s neck; the other end is smaller, for catching hold of the hind foot. He called it a ‘leg cleek’. I heard it as ‘clayk’, and only established the spelling when I looked it up later. Not an everyday word. It took me three dictionaries to find it. Never an easy matter finding a word in a dictionary if you don’t know how to spell it. Cleak? Cliek? Cleke?

It seems to have been a Scottish word originally, in the fifteenth century. A hook for catching hold of something, or pulling something, or hanging something up. Fishermen used it a lot. And then it turned up again in the nineteenth century, in golf, referring to a type of club. There’s an early instance recorded in 1829: golfers at St Andrews are described as swinging their ‘drivers and cleeks’. At that time it was spelled cleques.

In parts of Scotland, to this day, if someone calls you cleeky, they mean you’re grasping, captious.

And in the jazz era it turned up again, meaning a wet blanket at a party, a party-pooper. Beatniks in the US used it in the 1960s for any sad or melancholy person. Could that be the same word? Did it cross the Atlantic with some Scots emigrants?

I learned from my farmer friend that the space between the shank and the nose of a neck crook was usually the width of the four fingers of a person’s hand. It should be wide enough to comfortably slip over the forearm. The leg cleek has a width of one old English penny. That would make it about three centimetres.

He also mentioned that the crook had been used for fighting in the old days. He didn’t say how old those days were, or who were the fighters. English and Scots shepherds at Carter Bar, perhaps? Later, I recounted this conversation to a friend who’s into martial arts in a big way, and he wasn’t at all surprised. He’d used sticks in some fights, and he could see the value of having one with two hooks, especially if they were good at trapping necks and legs. And then he asked me: ‘Is that where by hook or by crook comes from?’

I was at home at the time, so wordbooks were everywhere. I found references to the phrase in three books straight away – and found three different explanations. That’s the trouble with folk idioms. The origins of many of them are lost, and people have to start guessing where they came from. Quite often there are some nice pieces of real evidence from literature or history.

The first use of hook and crook seems to have been in the writing of the Bible translator John Wiclife – or Wycliffe, as he is usually spelled today. That was around 1380. He wrote about the sale of sacraments and people being made to buy them ‘with hook or crook’. Plainly the phrase already had its modern meaning, ‘by all possible means, fair or foul’. The modern expression, with by used twice, is known from at least 1529.

When a dictionary says a word was first recorded at such-and-such a date, you have to take it with a pinch of salt. It might mean that the word was invented in that year, but it usually doesn’t. People have generally been using a word for a while before it gets written down. In the Middle Ages, when things weren’t written down all that often, a phrase like hook and crook would probably have been in everyday speech for decades before the 1380s. Wycliffe had a good ear for common idiom, and tried to make his translation of the Bible as down-to-earth as possible. If he used the phrase, it was certainly out on the street.

The two words hook and crook had already been in English for several hundred years. Hook is found in Old English, in the tenth century, with the same meaning that it has today. Crook comes into the language in the early thirteenth century, with a meaning very similar to hook. The sense used in shepherding can be traced from the early 1400s. All sorts of other meanings followed. The ‘criminal’ sense grew up in US slang towards the end of the nineteenth century. And in Australia and New Zealand, the word developed a general sense as an adjective meaning ‘bad’, ‘useless’, ‘unsatisfactory’, ‘malfunctioning’.

When I was last in Australia I didn’t feel so well at one point. Somebody said: ‘You feelin’ a bit crook?’ He was asking if I felt ill.

The most likely origin of by hook or by crook lies in a medieval countryside practice. The forests of medieval Britain belonged to the king, and trees could not be cut down without permission. The penalties were ferocious. So how would people get wood for their fires? They were allowed to use branches that had fallen on the ground. And they were also allowed to cut any dead wood from a tree if it could be reached with a shepherd’s crook or the hooked tool used by a reaper. The Bodmin Register of 1525 refers to local people being allowed to ‘bear away upon their backs a burden of lop, crop, hook, crook, and bag wood’.

If you go to the New Forest, you will see a plaque, the Rufus Stone, just off the A31 near Ringwood, marking the place where King William II was killed. There are clear signposts on the main road. Its inscription reads:

Here stood the oak tree on which an arrow shot by Sir Walter Tyrrell at a stag glanced and struck King William II surnamed Rufus on the breast of which stroke he instantly died on the second day of August anno 1100. King William thus slain was laid on a cart belonging to one Purkess and drawn from hence to Winchester, and buried in the Cathedral Church of that City.

Nearby, in the Sir Walter Tyrrell pub, you can reflect on the fact that Purkess was rewarded with permission to gather all the wood he could reach ‘by hook or crook’. Several generations of the Purkess family are buried in the cemetery of All Saints Church in Minstead, and the Purkiss name is still known in the area.

If you visit the churchyard, prepare to be distracted by Sherlock Holmes enthusiasts. Behind the church, under an oak, is the grave of Sir Arthur Conan Doyle.

An Irish origin has also been claimed for the phrase. In 1170 Richard de Clare, 2nd Earl of Pembroke, known as ‘Strongbow’, sailed into Waterford harbour as part of Henry II’s Irish campaign. He saw a tower on one side and a church on the other. On being told that it was the ‘Tower of Hook’ (in County Wexford) and the ‘Church of Crook’ (in County Waterford), he is reported to have said, ‘We shall take the town by Hook and by Crook.’ There are several variations of the story in Irish folklore. Cromwell is supposed to have said the same thing in 1650 when he was attacking Waterford.

I never got a chance to ask my Scottish-Welsh farmer if he had any opinions about the origins of by hook or by crook. My BBC producer, apparently sensing that something was not going as expected, appeared from within a flock of sheep-farmers. She had found somebody she wanted me to talk to. I thanked my friend for his company, and was just walking away from him when I felt my arm being tugged backwards. I looked down at it. There was a crook round it, holding it tight. I looked back at the farmer.

‘You should be interviewing the sheep, ye know,’ he said.

‘Excuse me?’

‘They don’t bleat the same down here as they do in Scotland.’

‘You don’t say.’

‘Ay, it’s a Welsh accent, ye see.’

2

Making a Beeline

MENAI

Later, as I got into my car, I looked out at the sheep, thousands of sheep, and ruminated about their accents. Five sheep for every person in the county, so they say. The face of my Gaerwen shepherd had been unmoving as he said it, no sign of a wink or a smile. Had he been joking? The notion wasn’t totally absurd. Why shouldn’t sheep have accents? If farmers can distinguish their breeds by the way they look, why not by the way they sound? I wonder if Karl von Frisch ever studied sheep?

Probably not. Bees were his thing. And fish. But mainly bees. I still have the copy of a Scientific American article he wrote in 1962: ‘Dialects in the Language of the Bees’. It led me to his book, written a few years before, translated into English as The Dancing Bees. Von Frisch was director of the Zoological Institute at Munich University, and in the 1920s he began a lifelong series of experiments into the way bees communicate with each other. It got him a share of the 1973 Nobel Prize for Physiology/Medicine.

Observers of nature know that when a single forager bee finds a good source of nectar, within an hour or so dozens, maybe hundreds, of bees will have found their way to the place. Evidently, the pioneer bee has returned to the hive and ‘told’ the others about the location of the food. But how? Von Frisch and his colleagues discovered that the information was being conveyed through a pattern of repeated body movements which he called ‘dancing’.

It was taking a while to get out of the sheep-market car park. I had to negotiate my way through a slow reversing dance of Range Rovers and sheep trailers, as they manoeuvred to offload their noisy contents into the sheep pens. A bee floated indecisively across my windscreen, plainly not on a von Frisch mission.

How had he worked it out? The researchers’ method was to put a small dish of sugar water some distance from the hive. The dish might not be discovered for several days, but as soon as one bee found it, and returned to the hive, others soon emerged and made their way to exactly the place where the dish was. It seemed to be precision navigating.

The first time I read about this research, I remember thinking: how on earth could you keep track of a single bee within a hive? But there was a simple solution. The researchers marked the pioneer forager with a coloured dot while it was feeding, so that they could track its movements when it returned. The hive had glass walls so that they could see what was happening inside. And there they saw the dance – a ‘round’ dance, with the bee turning in circles alternately to the left and the right.

The behaviour has now been observed by hundreds of researchers. It’s been filmed, and – these days – computer-analysed. The dance is evidently saying, ‘Hey, everyone, come and see what I’ve found, not far away!’ If the nectar source is especially rich, the dance language is especially lively. ‘Hey, you really have to see this!’

I finally got out of the sheep-market, and followed the little back road around to the junction with the A5 at the edge of Gaerwen, near where the Lit – tle Chef used to be. It’s a quiet road now. The new dual-carriageway A55 across Anglesey took most of the traffic away, and the café went with it. But there are enough points of interest along the A5 to keep the tourists coming. Llanfairpwll is just a couple of miles away, on the edge of the Menai Straits that separate Anglesey from the Welsh mainland. I always have a linguistic compulsion to avoid the bypass and drive along its main street, just to take in the long name outside the railway station.

Things have changed in Llanfairpwll. During the later decades of the last century you would see navy cadets (of both sexes) walking around the village. They were from the Royal Navy shore-based training school on the edge of the Menai Straits. The name of the school, inherited from a famous training vessel of the past, was on the front of their caps. It said simply Indefatigable. The school closed in 1995, and with it went an era of risqué jokes.

These days Llanfairpwll has another magnet as well as the name: Pringle’s knitwear store – though its racks of souvenir mugs, books, and teatowels have added fresh nuances to the definition of ‘knitting’. Several tourist buses were lined up outside, and their contents were dancing to and fro at the entrance, excitedly pointing out things in the shop to one another. ‘Hey, you really have to see this!’

A busload of Japanese tourists was posing for a photograph in front of the long name on the shop and trying to pronounce it. The one at the railway station has a pseudo-phonetic transcription underneath it, which I suppose helps.

One of the buses was having some difficulty negotiating the turn into the car park, so a small traffic jam built up. While I waited for it to clear, I looked across at the buzzing forecourt. Just inside the door of the shop there is one of those signposts which gives distances and directions to major cities. It tells you that it is 6,879 miles to Buenos Aires that way (past Aberystwyth and keep going) and 5,923 miles to Tokyo this way (via Benllech). It is also 9,898 miles from Llanfairpwll to the South Pole.

I expect when the tourists get back home they will tell their friends about where they have been, and more will come.

That seems to be what happened to von Frisch’s bees. When the forager did its round dance, the nearby bees got the message, detected the scent of the kind of flower on the forager’s body, and flew off to look for it. When they found it, they too returned to the hive and did a similar dance. And so it went on, with more and more bees making the visit, until most of the nectar had been drained from the source. Late arrivals at the flower then found little to feed on, so when they returned to the hive they had, quite literally, nothing to make a buzz and dance about. Their dancing movements were slow or they stopped altogether. ‘Don’t bother going!’ And the other bees, noting the inactivity, stayed put – until the next excited forager arrived with news of a fresh source of nectar.

There was no danger of the Pringle’s source being totally drained. Indeed, as I waited for the traffic to clear, I could see a delivery van unloading fresh supplies. Nectar yesterday, nectar tomorrow, and always nectar today.

The round dance is enough to indicate the source if it’s fairly near to the hive – von Frisch thought within about 275 feet or so – but if it’s a lot further away, such as a mile or more, something more precise is needed. That’s when the bees do the ‘tail-wagging’ dance. Inside the hive, the forager runs a short distance in a straight line, wagging its abdomen from side to side, then returns in a semi-circle to the starting point. It repeats the run, and comes back in a semi-circle on the opposite side. Then it does the whole cycle again – and again…

It’s the tempo of the dance that signals the distance from the source. For instance, in one experiment, a feeding dish was placed a thousand feet away, and the bee that discovered it performed fifteen complete cycles of the dance in thirty seconds. When the dish was placed two thousand feet away, the number dropped to eleven. The further away, the fewer the cycles.

And how do they work out the direction of the food? That’s shown by the straight-line part of the dance. If the dance is done on the platform in front of a hive, in the light of day, the orientation of the bee’s body along the line with respect to the sun is enough to point other bees directly towards the goal. Inside the hive, where it’s dark, the bee’s sense of gravity allows it to make an upwards movement against the honeycomb wall. It’s as if the bee draws a straight vertical line on the wall. If it then runs straight up the line, this tells the others that the food is in the same direction as the sun. If the food is, say, forty degrees to the left of the sun, the run points forty degrees to the left of this line.

It’s an amazingly sophisticated system, with modifications built in to allow for the sun’s movement across the sky. And it works. When other bees fly out, they know that the nectar source is, say, about half a mile away at a bearing of forty degrees left, and – from the excitement of the dance – how much nectar is likely to be there. And that’s the source they go for, ignoring everything else on the way. In one series of experiments, von Frisch placed other food dishes between the hive and the nectar source that the pioneer forager had found. The other bees flew straight over them, making a beeline, as it were, only for the source they’d been told about.

The bus that had been causing all the trouble finally made it into its parking bay, but my little traffic jam stayed put. A tractor was trying to follow it in, and that was now blocking the road. What on earth was a farmer doing at Pringle’s at this time of day? As it slewed around, I could see it was pulling a trailer with two sheep in it. Now that’s what I call service. Out of the field, into the Gaerwen auction, and onto a Pringle’s shelf, all in one afternoon.

I could hear the sound of the sheep above the noise of the traffic. Were there Welsh-English bleatlects? I fantasized about an article: ‘Dialects in the Language of the Sheep’. Von Frisch’s first experiments had used black Austrian honeybees. He then carried out some further experiments using Italian honeybees. The Italians restricted their round dances to distances of only thirty feet. For intermediate distances they performed a ‘sickle-shaped’ dance, which the Austrians did not do. Then, for distances over 120 feet they did the tail-wagging dance, but rather more slowly than the Austrians.

As a result, when the Austrian and Italian bees were placed in the same hive, the wagging dance of the Italians made the Austrians search for the feeding place too far away. And vice versa. They seemed to understand each other, but not exactly. Just like the dialects of human language, really, von Frisch thought.

If he’d studied the buzzing, he might have said accents too. I wonder if the sound of the buzz alters in proportion to the excitement?

The bee-dancing hypothesis was received with considerable scepticism at first. Later observations showed that the time it took for bees to arrive at the source was usually longer than von Frisch had predicted. Maybe it was all a mixture of chance, sight, and scent after all? But in 2005 a research team made more precise measurements to show that von Frisch’s dancing theory was right.

They used a method called harmonic radar – a system first used to track the location of avalanche victims. A tiny transponder was attached to a bee, and this returned radar signals enabling its flight path to be plotted. The team was able to demonstrate that the waggle dance was enough to enable most of the bees to reach the vicinity of the food. But they then needed sight and odour to pinpoint the final destination.

That was why von Frisch’s bees took longer than expected to reach the food. The dance got them to the railway station, as it were, but they had to find the right platform for themselves.

The busload of Japanese tourists had found their way onto the station platform and had lined up under the name sign. They were having trouble working out how to stand in front of it without obscuring the letters. The photographer was having trouble too, getting everybody into his shot. He backed away, momentarily forgetting that the railway line was right behind him. An eruption of Japanese – which, roughly translated, said, ‘Excuse our temerity in troubling you, Hiro, but you are about to fall onto a railway track and there is a train coming’– kept him safe.

After the train had passed he solved his problem by taking the photograph from the opposite platform. And his subjects solved theirs by having some of their party sit down on the ground in front of the name sign. It looked as if the letters were sprouting out of their heads.

Suddenly the jam cleared, and I drove on, leaving the sheep and Japanese behind. The road out of Llanfairpwll runs alongside the Menai Straits, and if you pull into a lay-by there is a splendid view of the two bridges – Thomas Telford’s fine Menai Suspension Bridge to the north, and the later Britannia Bridge, originally built by Robert Stephenson, a mile and a half to the south.

The suspension bridge was opened on 30 January 1826. It was one of the highest bridges of its day, because the Admiralty insisted that there should be room beneath it to allow the passage of sailing ships. It’s a hundred-foot drop to the water below. It carried the A5 from London to Holyhead – the first British road instituted by an Act of Parliament. The Irish Act of Union had been passed in 1801. Once the link was completed, Irish MPs would be able to make the journey down to the Houses of Parliament in two days instead of four.

Before the bridge there were only ferries – six main services, running at different points along the Straits, each under the control of a local landowner. A highly competitive business it was, I suppose much like the local taxi businesses in the area today. Apart from the time involved, and the danger from the strong currents, it could be expensive. Who pays the ferryman? You did – and sometimes twice! Some boatmen would charge you when you got onto the boat, and then charge you again before they let you off.

The ferry owners were totally against the project, but they were overruled by London, and work started on the bridge in 1819. Limestone was quarried at Penmon a few miles north, and carried down by boat. The ironwork was made at a Shrewsbury foundry. To prevent rust, it was immersed in warm linseed oil.

Lewis Carroll had a different idea. In Chapter 8 of Through the Looking Glass he has the White Knight come up with a unique preservation scheme. The Knight has been singing a song to Alice about the life-story told to him by ‘an aged, aged man, a-sitting on a gate’. Then, quite out of the blue, he reflects:

I heard him then, for I had just

Completed my design

To keep the Menai Bridge from rust

By boiling it in wine.

A-sitting. That use of a-goes back to the Middle Ages. It is historically a form of on, which came to be used to emphasize the duration of an action, and especially its repeated character. If you were ‘a-shouting’, as Casca says the people do at the beginning of Shakespeare’s Julius Caesar, you would be engaged in that activity for longer than if you were just ‘shouting’. You would be shouting over and over.

Why does Carroll use it here? Sitting isn’t a verb which needs an a- prefix. It is already expressing a continuous duration. The aged man wasn’t sitting repeatedly on his gate. So you wouldn’t expect to find an a-used.

What happened was that poets started to use the prefix to make up the ‘te-tum-te-tum’ rhythm of a line. It was a bit cheeky, really, but the nuance added by a- was so slight that it hardly made any difference. And it was an easy ‘fix’.

The stratagem was a boon to anyone making up simple rhymes:

Bye, baby bunting. Daddy’s gone hunting.

Doesn’t work.

Bye, baby bunting. Daddy’s gone a-hunting.

Works.

So, ‘A-hunting we will go…’, ‘Here we come a-wassailing…’– and ‘an aged, aged man, a-sitting on a gate’.

That day in June 2005, as I passed by, they were preserving the bridge again, but totally ignoring Carroll’s advice, for there was no wine in sight. They were three months into the painstaking task of stripping off the old paint down to the bare metal and repainting. It would take them several months to finish, and in the meantime one side of the bridge was covered with scaffolding. Only one lane of the bridge was open. In the morning it took the traffic across from Anglesey to the mainland, and then at 2 p.m. the flow reversed. Hard luck if you arrived at the Anglesey side at one minute past two. You had to find another way – or wait a day, of course.

Fortunately, there is another way. Just a few years after Telford’s bridge was opened, plans were drawn up by Robert Stephenson for a bridge to carry the London–Holyhead railway across the Straits. To take the weight of a train, he designed a bridge consisting of two rectangular wrought-iron tubes, ten feet apart, one of which enclosed the up-line and the other the down-line. A protective wooden roof was added, covered with hessian and coated with tar, along the whole length of the bridge. There was a gap of a couple of feet between the roof and the top of the tubes.

The tubes were 150 feet above the water, supported by five tall masonry towers, again using Penmon limestone. Each tower was surmounted by a stone structure, which gave the bridge a distinctive fort-like silhouette. Four limestone lions, about thirteen feet in height, guarded the bridge, two at each end. They were carved by John Thomas, who had previously worked at the Houses of Parliament and Buckingham Palace.

Would the tubes take the weight of a train? To be on the safe side, Stephenson allowed for suspension chains in his design, and put slots into the top of the arches above the bridge. But it proved to be an unnecessary precaution. A model of the bridge was built and tested, and the tubular construction went ahead without chains. The bridge was opened on 5 March 1850, and trains passed comfortably to and fro for 120 years. The slots now look rather ominous as you approach them – like pairs of beady eyes.

I remember travelling by steam train through the bridge in the 1950s, to and from Holyhead. If the window of your compartment was open – and as a child you tried to make sure it was – you would soon be covered with wonderful smoke and ash, and your ears would ring with the whistle of the engine as it entered the tunnel and the deafening noise of the train in the confined space.

Then, on the evening of Saturday, 23 May 1970, the bridge burned down. A group of local teenagers had gone into the tunnel on the Caernarfonshire side to see what it was like, and lit some paper for illumination a few yards inside. They dropped it accidentally, and other rubbish alongside the track caught fire. The mixture of wood, hessian, and tar, and the draught tunnel formed by the roof space, did the rest.

The problem for the fire brigade was that the entrance to the tubes was difficult to access – they had to negotiate three-quarters of a mile of rough track. There were no pressure water supplies in the area, and the nearest static water was the Menai Straits, 450 yards away down a one-in-three gradient.

By the time they got some water onto it, the fire had taken hold. One of the red-hot girders even snapped in half when water was sprayed upon it. It was a raging inferno inside the roof space – though curiously, because of the enclosed nature of the bridge, for some time no fire could be seen from the outside. But once it broke through, the line of flames extending across the Straits was as spectacular as it was horrific. You can see a video clip, and an interview with one of the teenagers, at a BBC Wales website.

One estimate of the damage was over £1 million, but as the bridge cost over £600,000 to build in 1850, that was surely a low guess. The railway was out of action for four years. Irish ferries to and from Holyhead had to be diverted to Morecambe. The economy of the area took years to recover.

A new single-track railway bridge was back in action in 1974, supported by arches, and they put a road on top of it in 1980. It’s now the main link between Anglesey and the mainland, carrying the A55. Three of the imposing towers are still there, and the road passes underneath them, right on top of the railway line.

You can’t see the lions from the road, but they’re still there too, beside the railway. You can visit the two on the Anglesey side if you take a path by the Carreg Bran Hotel. A small section of the original tubular bridge is also displayed on the Bangor side. You can see it from the train.

I was planning to head south into mid-Wales, where I had my next appointment with Welsh accents, so I took the Britannia Bridge out of Anglesey, and turned towards Caernarfon past the thousand-acre Vaynol estate. The Old Hall there dates back to Elizabethan times, and maybe earlier. These days they hold major cultural events in the park. Local boy Bryn Terfel started a glittering annual music festival there in 2000, and regularly performs there. They say that when he’s singing you can hear him in Cardiff. Only when the wind’s in the right direction, mind.

If you look carefully at the wall near the entrance, you can still see the faded image of a piece of anonymous biblical graffiti text, whose original white-paint impact has long been erased. I photographed it when it first appeared. It reads: ALL SHALL BE WELL!

All was well, and it was a fine sunny day when I stopped to eat a sandwich at the top of a hill overlooking the Straits. A lovely view back across Anglesey, and plenty of opportunity to observe bees – and wasps – out in force, and especially interested in my sandwich.

Dylan Thomas got it right about wasps. In his short story ‘Conversation about Christmas’ he tells a small boy about his childhood Christmas presents. Some of them were books, he says, ‘that told me everything about the wasp, except why’.

A bee meandered into view. It must have been the general impression of bees flying directly to their food or to the hive which led to the emergence of that phrase, making a beeline. In fact, radar – or for that matter, common observation – shows that there’s nothing particularly straight about the flight-path at all. Bees wobble about a lot. Nor do they have the sense of urgency or rapid movement that is usually intended when someone is said to ‘make a beeline’ for something.

The earliest recorded usage of the phrase is 1830, but it must still have felt very new a decade later. When Edgar Allen Poe used it in one of his short stories, ‘The Gold Bug’, published in 1843, he felt he had to explain it. His character Legrand describes how he worked out where some pirate treasure was hidden. What he did, he says, was draw ‘a bee-line, or, in other words, a straight line’ from one point to another. That’s a sure indication that a usage is recent. People don’t bother explaining the sense of a word if it’s well established.

It’s hardly ever possible to say when a word first comes into a language. Who knows when king was first used, or eggshell, or inconsequential? Or by hook and by crook?

Just occasionally we can be in on a word-birth.

One such moment was in New York in 1907 at a publishing trade

association dinner. Huebsch had just published a successful book by the American humorist Gelett Burgess, called Are You a Bromide? (A bromide was Burgess’s word for a dull, conventional person.) Free copies were given out to those present, printed – as was the association’s custom – in a special jacket.

Burgess was there, and he didn’t like the jacket. He felt it was much too conventional. A much better idea, he thought, was the practice of contemporary lurid novels, which always had a delicious damsel posing on the front cover. So he decided to draw one. He sketched out a buxom blonde on one of the jackets, and labelled her ‘Miss Belinda Blurb’.

The name caught on. Any excessive testimonial for a book, on front or back covers, was soon being called a blurb. In a little wordbook he wrote a few years later, he defined his own term:

1 A flamboyant advertisement; an inspired testimonial.

2 Fulsome praise; a sound like a publisher.

Blurbs have been with us ever since.

Actually, blurb was quite fortunate. Most of the words we make up on the spur of the moment never catch on. It doesn’t matter even if you’re gifted and famous. Shakespeare is the first recorded user of about two thousand words, but nearly half of them fell out of use sooner or later. From his list, we continue to use abhorred, abstemious, accessible, and accommodation; but nobody uses adoptious, aidance, allayment, or annexment any more.

Why did abstemious stay and adoptious go? One of the great mysteries of language change is why people decide to use one word and not another.

Sometimes you can sense the nature of the choices available. For instance, frequency is recorded in English from 1553. A century later, frequentness appeared. This is something which happens quite a lot. A word with a good Anglo-Saxon ending (such as –ness) is put into competition with an already existing word with a foreign ending (the Latin/French –ency, in this case). Which won? Today the dictionaries all include frequency and only occasionally even bother to mention frequentness.

Perhaps it was the shorter length of frequency which made it appeal. Or the desire to sound educated. Or the fact that it was recognized in the leading dictionaries. Or perhaps it wasn’t so much that people preferred frequency as that they disliked frequentness. Maybe it was the slightly awkward pronunciation, as they tried to get their tongues around the –ntn – sequence in the middle. Maybe they didn’t like the sound of the two n’s.

But frequentness didn’t totally disappear. If you listen out in everyday conversation, you will quite often find the Anglo-Saxon constructions being used in place of the expected forms. I have heard immenseness, immediateness, and delicateness as well as frequentness. None of them is a recommended dictionary form. The dates of their earliest and latest recorded uses, according to the OED, are:

immenseness: 1610–1798

frequentness: 1664–1862

delicateness: 1530–1873

immediateness: 1633–1882

They should be dead; but they live on.

It’s an interesting exercise to explore the use of suffixes, trying them out to see the different meanings and effects they convey. I tried it once with a school group. The idea was to see how many suffixes could attach to a noun like bee. Modern dictionaries usually don’t give any. I found bee-like in one, and that was all.

Within minutes they had concocted a story about an imaginary beedom (from kingdom), in which a queen bee (your beeness) had offered beehood (from knighthood) to a brave worker who had saved the hive from attack. They went on to form a beeocracy. Outsiders who criticized their way of life were displaying beeism and considered beeist. The heroic worker was eventually beeified. And so it went on. It was like the unwritten script for an animal cartoon – the stuff of Antz.

The students weren’t the first to think up beedom. The OED editors had already found an instance of it in 1868. They also found one use of beeishness in 1674. Beedom turns up several times in the writing of the missionary poet John Bradburne. It is the sort of word that gets repeatedly invented.

I wonder if von Frisch was ever stung? An occupational hazard of an entomologist, I imagine. And if I ever had the chance to do some detailed work on the languages and dialects of animals, I think I’d prefer sheep to bees, having been stung more than once.

Of course, all this talk of language and dialects is metaphorical when applied to animals. Von Frisch knew this very well. We can hardly compare the infinite possibilities of expression and comprehension mediated through human language to the limited set of instinctive reactions that we find in a bee, whose brain, he pointed out, is the size of a grass seed. And we would find huge limitations of communication, similarly, if we were to investigate the communicative patterns of larger-brained animals, such as we find in gull cries, thrush songs, ape calls – or sheep bleats.

We do keep underestimating the ability of animals to learn facets of language, though. For a long time, it was thought there were certain properties of language that animals could never learn, and this may still be true. Maybe the defining characteristic of humanity is indeed being ‘Homo loquens’, the speaking animal. But animal researchers have been steadily chipping away at the idea that there is a major evolutionary gap between humans and other species.

Some animals may not be able to speak, write, or sign in the way humans can; but they can do more than we might expect. Chimps can be taught manual signs. Parrots imitate a remarkable range of vocal sounds. Dogs recognize subtle tones of voice. There was even news, in 2006, of a species of African monkey that varied the sequence of calls in order to express different meanings – much as we vary word order in English. And in the same year a research team in California reported that they had taught some starlings to tell the difference between the song equivalent of simple sentences and those containing a song into which another bit of song had been inserted – in effect, a subordinate clause.

Actually, 2006 was quite a year, because in August there was a report suggesting that cows have regional accents too. Apparently some Somerset dairy farmers had noticed that cows have different moos, depending on which herd they come from. Mooolects. Maybe bleatlects aren’t such a fantastic idea after all.

A huge flock of starlings flew towards me and then turned back at the last minute, as if they were wanting to keep out of Gwynedd. Maybe starlingese syntax is different there. Or maybe they understand more about human dialects than we give them credit for. If so, any especially sensitive starlings would steer well clear of the town I was about to pass through, Caernarfon.

There is an English four-letter taboo word beginning with the letter c which is so sensitive still, in the minds of many, that if I were to print it in full in this book I would cause unknown quantities of upset and complaint. So, not being in the business of upsetting readers, I will rely on folk memory to supply the missing word. And in case there are any who do not know what I am talking about, I will provide a clue in a couple of paragraphs’ time.

In Caernarfon, this same word is used among some sections of the population as an amiable form of address. Much as you might hear ‘Hello, mate’ as a friendly greeting, so in the streets of Caernarfon you can hear an affable ‘Hello, c—.’ Anywhere else in the UK, such a greeting would earn you a black eye at least. But not here.

Book publishers are able to eliminate such words at an early stage, if they want to. But what do you do with the Internet? The search engines had a real problem when they first tried to devise filters which would identify pages containing offensive words or images. They thought that all they had to do was have a piece of software search through a page, and if it found a string of letters which added up to a potentially sensitive word, they would block access to it.

The only thing was, the software didn’t make a distinction between the string of letters when it was a separate word and the string when it was part of a word. So, the search engine having decided that sex was a ‘bad word’, the residents of Sussex and Essex found they were unable to access many web pages relating to their counties. Not to mention the good citizens of Scunthorpe.

Software is a bit more advanced these days, but it still lacks the kind of linguistic sophistication which is needed to ensure that basic blunders are avoided. A couple of years ago, there was an Internet news page that reported a street stabbing in Chicago. The automatically-generated ads down the side of the screen said ‘Buy your knives here’ and ‘Get cheap knives here’. The dumb software had spotted the word knife and assumed that this was what needed to be plugged. It wasn’t clever enough to analyse the content of the page and see that, if there were to be any ads at all, they should be about personal protection.

Publications go to extraordinary lengths sometimes to protect their readers from the shock of encountering a taboo word. Even dictionaries. In the 1940s, Eric Partridge’s Dictionary of Slang and Unconventional English, the first to pay full and detailed attention to all four-letter words, was banned by some libraries and placed on the reserved shelves by others. If you were interested in slang and asked to see it, the librarian would look you up and down as if you were a pervert.

Modern dictionaries generally include all taboo words, marking them with a stylistic label such as ‘taboo’ or ‘offensive’. But even these sometimes back away from a full frontal presentation. I have a dictionary, published not very long ago, where the last word on the right-hand page to be given a definition is fuck. This should therefore appear as the guide-word (or ‘running head’) at the top right-hand corner of the page. But it doesn’t. Instead we see its alphabetical predecessor, fuchsia.

As I drove through Caernarfon, past the castle, I stopped at a zebra crossing to let a young man cross. He had just stepped onto the crossing when a car coming from the opposite direction zipped past in front of him, giving him a bit of a fright. He shouted after the miscreant. It was the c-word again, but not at all affable this time.

3

We Want Information

PORTMEIRION

The road south from Caernarfon into mid-Wales runs along the Lleyn peninsula then cuts across through Porthmadog and past the Italianate village created by Clough Williams-Ellis in the 1920s in loving memory of his visits to Portofino, on the coast of north-west Italy. Portmeirion. I had to go and worship there, for a little while, because it was chosen as the location for The Prisoner, the 1960s cult television series starring Patrick McGoohan. I am of the generation that watched it assiduously, week by week, and puzzled over what on earth it was all about.

Portmeirion was ‘the Village’ where (it seemed) kidnapped spies and agents of all descriptions were kept for interrogation, so that whatever data they had in their heads might be extracted for use by those (whoever they were) who were in charge. McGoohan’s character has suddenly resigned from his job in British intelligence. He is followed home, put to sleep with a gas spray, and taken to the Village. Each episode begins with his character, now a prisoner, waking up in his new bedroom and having an exchange with the Village’s current second-in-command (‘Number 2’).

PRISONER: Where am I?

NUMBER 2: In the Village.

PRISONER: What do you want?

NUMBER 2: Information.

PRISONER: Whose side are you on?

NUMBER 2: That would be telling. We want information. Information. Information.

PRISONER: You won’t get it.

NUMBER 2: By hook or by crook, we will.

PRISONER: Who are you?

NUMBER 2: The new Number 2.

PRISONER: Who is Number 1?

NUMBER 2: You are Number 6.

PRISONER: I am not a number. I am a free man!

Despite their hook and crook, the Village guardians don’t get their information. And at the end of the series, McGoohan triumphs (possibly).

The surreal location, and the ingenious, ambiguous ‘Big Brother is watching you’ plots, a combination of thriller, fantasy, and science fiction, reinforced by quirky music, clever camerawork, crisp editing and colourful design, resulted in a series now acknowledged to have been well ahead of its time. I especially admired the quickfire dialogue, with its contagious catch-phrases, and forty years on still find myself saying ‘Be seeing you’ as a farewell – the au revoir that all brainwashed inmates of the Village had been programmed to say.

Catch-phrases are notoriously difficult things to pin down, as they rarely get into dictionaries. Often, by the time lexicographers come to be aware of them, they are already on their way out, so they are never recorded at all. In any case, they don’t easily fit into a dictionary format. A dictionary is not the obvious place to put ‘Be seeing you,’ for instance. Or Victor Meldrew’s ‘I don’t beLIEVE it!’ from One Foot in the Grave.

Many catch-phrases are generated by particular radio or television series, or by TV advertising slogans, and last only as long as the transmissions take place. ‘Can I do you now sir?’ from the radio show ITMA in the 1940s. ‘Are you sitting comfortably?’ from Listen with Mother in the 1950s. ‘There’s no answer to that,’ from The Morecambe and Wise Show in the 1960s. ‘And now for something completely different,’ from Monty Python in the 1970s.

There can be huge generational gaps in communication – teenagers not understanding adult catch-phrases and, even more so, adults not understanding the latest teenage linguistic fashions. Nor are catchphrases much recognized outside the country in which they originate. Most British catch-phrases are not known in America, and vice versa. PC Dixon’s ‘Evenin’ all,’ from the 1950s and ’60s television series Dixon of Dock Green, never travelled across the Atlantic. Nor did ‘Gissa job’ (= ‘Give us a job’ in Liverpool dialect), from Alan Bleasdale’s 1980 television play Boys from the Blackstuff, and the series it inspired.

A favoured few phrases catch the public linguistic imagination, and live on. Some of them eventually become part of the mainstream of English usage, and their origin is lost to memory. Who now knows which film Western originally inspired ‘A man’s gotta do what a man’s gotta do’? And how many of us are aware that it was Al Jolson, in the first talking film, The Jazz Singer (1927), who gave us ‘You ain’t heard nothin’ yet’? Such phrases have refreshed parts of our linguistic intuition that other phrases have not reached.

For some (especially younger) readers, that last sentence will seem to be an original piece of literary expression, perhaps admired for its metaphorical ingenuity, more likely condemned as a piece of intellectual self-indulgence. Others (slightly less young) will nod wisely, and remember the original lager slogan which ran from the 1970s for some twenty years: ‘Heineken refreshes the parts other beers cannot reach’.

A significant amount of our daily language is a matter of recalling our individual past linguistic experiences, reflecting old interests and habits. Catch-phrases tell others what we have watched or listened to. If you have experienced the same happenings, you recognize the allusions and respond with pleasure. If you haven’t, you would probably think the behaviour puerile. Nudge, nudge, wink, wink. Say no more. Know what I mean?

When phrases are consciously taken from literature or high oratory, they are usually called ‘quotations’. Some people sprinkle them throughout their speech and writing. They may not know their origins, of course. ‘A thing of beauty is a joy for ever.’ ‘O, what a tangled web we weave…’ ‘You’re a better man than I am, Gunga Din.’ If they escape your memory, a book of quotations will tell you that these are from John Keats, Walter Scott, and Rudyard Kipling, respectively.

Some quotations have become so familiar that they have entered the standard everyday language. ‘The plot thickens’, from George Villiers’ play The Rehearsal. ‘Ships that pass in the night’, from Longfellow’s poem-saga Tales of a Wayside Inn. ‘Having your pound of flesh’ and ‘to the manner born’ from Shakespeare. ‘Six of one and half a dozen of the other’ from Frederick Marryat’s novel The Pirate – or, of course, from The Prisoner.

Misquotations enter the standard language too. Sherlock Holmes never said ‘Elementary, my dear Watson.’ Ingrid Bergman never said, ‘Play it again, Sam’ (in the film Casablanca). Tarzan never said ‘Me Tarzan, you Jane.’ In each case, something similar was uttered, but it is the misremembered versions which have come down to us.

Catch-phrases help people to bond. Conversely, a difference of taste in catch-phrases, as George Eliot nearly said, ‘is a great strain on the affections’. Only the most successful advertising campaigns, or the most reported public statements, manage to reach out to everyone, and transcend individual tastes. ‘A diamond is forever,’ from a campaign of 1939. ‘Clunk, click, every trip,’ from a 1971 road safety campaign. The slogan ‘Drinka pinta milka day,’ from 1958. That brought the word pinta into English.

You can, of course, keep linguistic memories alive artificially. This is what fanclubs and anniversary gatherings and appreciation societies do.

There is a Prisoner Appreciation Society. The society has a shop in Portmeirion, in a building called the Round House, where they sell Prisoner books, recordings, and memorabilia. Each year they have a get-together in the village, and there is a tradition of re-enacting one of the scenes – the chess-match on the lawn from the episode called Checkmate in which the pieces are represented by Village inmates. Proper Prisoner dress is the order of the day. Everyone says ‘Be seeing you,’ when they leave. The appropriate response is ‘And you.’

To reach the village you follow the A487 out of Porthmadog, past the station where the Ffestiniog steam railway begins, and across the mile- long embankment built by local landowner William Madocks in 1811, known as ‘the cob’, to reclaim land from the Traeth Mawr (‘great beach’) estuary. Madocks had hoped that the embankment, along with the new model village of Tremadog, which he was building nearby, would provide an attractive road route between London and Dublin. Unfortunately for him – though fortunately for Holyhead and Llanfairpwll – the commissioners decided on a northern route, across the Menai Straits, and, as we have seen, eventually got Thomas Telford to build it.

High tides in the winter of 1812 breached the cob. Hundreds of local men turned out to carry material to fill the gap, and the embankment was saved. But the disaster closed the cob for two years, and placed Madocks in serious financial trouble. He received welcome and unexpected support from the poet Shelley, who was passing through Wales at the time and looking for a place to escape the attentions of the authorities, who were concerned about his radical political views. Shelley was hugely enthusiastic about the Tremadog project, which he saw as a bold experiment in forming a new social community, so he decided to stay in the area and fund-raise on Madocks’ behalf. He lived in a cottage in the grounds of Madocks’ house. Much of his long philosophical poem ‘Queen Mab’ was written there.

The collaboration didn’t last long. One night in February 1813, Shelley claimed that an attempt had been made on his life, and he immediately left the area. The event – if it was not simply hallucination – has attracted endless speculation. Was it a government-inspired assassination attempt? Had his radical views upset local businessmen? Some think it was a clever scheme by local shepherds to drive him away. They had become upset at Shelley’s practice of shooting any injured sheep which he encountered on his mountain walks. So one story goes.

Madocks’ house, Plas Tan-yr-Allt, is now a hotel. The rooms are named after Madocks’ guests. One is called Shelley’s Theatre.

Madocks was saved by the development of the new slate quarries at Blaenau Ffestiniog, which used his embankment to export the slate via a nearby harbour, which was called Port Madoc – modern Porthmadog. A railway line was later built along the cob, alongside the road. It’sa splendid tourist attraction today.

Cobs turn up in all kinds of places. There’s another one on Anglesey, linking Holy Island to the Anglesey mainland. I suppose the most famous one in Britain is at Lyme Regis in Dorset, because it figured in Jane Austen’s novels and also starred in the film The French Lieutenant’s Woman.

Cob – or cobb, as it is sometimes spelled – is a curious word. It has a remarkable range of senses, some dating back to the fifteenth century. At one time or another it has referred to a well-built man, a type of gull, a herring, a male swan, a stout horse, and a spider (think of cobweb). Small haystacks, loaves of bread, certain types of nut, the tops of maize shoots, and even testicles have also been called cobs, as have Spanish dollars (the famous ‘pieces of eight’), lumps of building material for walls, and small rounded stones for roadways, more commonly called cobble stones.

Which is where Lyme Regis comes in, for the cob there was originally made out of cobble stones.

The OED editors must have spent some time puzzling over this set of senses, but without coming to any definite conclusion. Are the meanings all related to each other, or do they have different points of origin? There seem to be three semantic themes involved. The notion of ‘large in size’ is there in such cases as the large men, swans, and horses – and probably also the pieces of eight, which were bigger than the average coin. The notion of ‘head’ or ‘top’ (compare German Kopf) is there in gulls and spiders and maize shoots. The notion of ‘something rounded or forming a roundish lump’ is there in most of the others.

It’s hard to disentangle these notions in many instances. Was it the male swan’s size relative to the female, or the rounded shape of its head, which caused it to be called a cob? And then there are the more abstract or figurative uses of the word, many of which are still found in dialects. To give someone a cob can mean to hit them. To have a cob on is to be in a bad mood. To get a cob on is to become sulky. I remember using those last two in Liverpool, where I lived as a teenager. But are these related to the other senses? Nobody knows.

At the end of the Porthmadog cob, on the left if you’re driving towards Portmeirion, is a small house where until recently you had to pay a 5p toll per car – an unusual practice, to say the least, on a British A-class road. It’s a legacy of William Madocks’ original toll, which helped rescue him from financial difficulty. But it is no more. The road was nationalized by the Welsh Assembly in 2005.

The opening paragraph of the old toll-board is a Roget’s Thesaurus of early-nineteenth-century vehicle names:

TOLLS TO BE TAKEN AT THIS GATE

For every Horse or other Beast of Draught drawing any Coach, Sociable, Berlin, Landau, Chariot, Vis-a-Vis, Chaise, Calash, Chaise-marine, Curricle, Chair, Gig, Whisky, Caravan, Hearse, Litter, Waggon, Wain, Cart, Dray, or other Carriage, any Sum not exceeding One Shilling:

For every Horse, Mare, Gelding, or Ass, laden or unladen, and not drawing, the Sum of Sixpence: but if there shall be more than one such Horse, Mare, Gelding, Mule, or Ass, belonging to the same Person, then the Sum of Sixpence shall be paid for one of them only, and the Sum of Threepence only for every other of them:

For every Drove of Oxen, Cows, or Neat Cattle, any Sum not exceeding Five Shillings per Score, and so in proportion for any greater or less Number:

For every Drove of Calves, Pigs, Sheep or Lambs, any Sum not exceeding Three Shillings and Sixpence per Score, and so in proportion for any greater or less Number:

And for every Person crossing or passing on Foot, without any beast or Carriage, any Sum not exceeding Two-pence.

The sign shows the eighteenth-century liking for capital letters on nouns considered to be important – Coach, Mare, Pigs, Horse, Berlin, Person, Chaise…, of course, as these are the critical factors; but also Number, Sum, and Foot, which the sign-writer felt needed extra prominence. The fashion for noun capitalization died out by the end of the century.

After you’ve crossed the cob, quite suddenly you turn right for Portmeirion. You have to be on your toes not to miss the turning. If you encounter a sign saying Penrhyndeudraeth, you’ve gone too far. That name means ‘headland with two beaches’. In 1998 it became the first broadband-networked village in the UK.

Actually, you don’t have to go as far as Penrhyndeudraeth. Another sign just after the turning tells you that you’ve missed it.

The road down to the village winds for a mile through woodland and into the car park by the arched gatehouse which is the entrance to Portmeirion. You pay to get in, unless you’re staying there, or dining in the hotel. But it’s worth every penny. You’d have to travel to Portofino to have a comparable experience.

In his account of the development of Portmeirion, Clough Williams- Ellis describes his creation as full of ‘wilful pleasantries, calculated naivetes, eye-traps, forced and faked perspectives, heretical constructions, unorthodox colour mixtures, [and] general architectural levity’. That’s exactly what it’s like. There is cheeky joy everywhere.

Noël Coward was one of many literary visitors. He stayed for a week in the Watch House, arriving one Saturday and leaving the next. In between he wrote Blithe Spirit.

I called in to the Prisoner shop, and bought yet another book on the subject. As I left, I said ‘Be seeing you,’ to the man behind the counter. He said, ‘And you,’ through a thin smile. The rest of his face held an expression of extreme pity.

A sunny day, and Portmeirion was full of tourists. It’s a small place, really, with one steep windy road leading down to the sea, and innumerable recesses and side turnings beckoning you towards intricately landscaped gardens and visually teasing ornate façades. On a tall pedestal, at the head of the long flight of steps leading to the harbour, is a bronze statue of Hercules, standing in for Atlas, in a heroic kneeling pose, carrying a huge stone globe on his shoulders. Prisoner aficionados would of course see this as an allusion to the huge bouncing balloon-entities, controlled by the Village guardians, that prevented people escaping.

Thomas Telford turns up in Portmeirion. A tall building overlooking the piazza was erected in honour of the bicentenary of his birth, in 1957. They call it Telford’s Tower. Today it is a self-catering cottage for three.

The compact layout of Portmeirion tends to push people towards each other. That day in June it seemed there were more English accents per square metre here than anywhere else in the world. And foreign languages too. I heard five in as many footsteps.

I walked down to the water’s edge, by the hotel. A group in front of me were speaking Welsh. Having been listening to so many English accents, it took me a bit by surprise. And yet this is a corner of the traditional heartland of Welsh. Once upon a time it would have been English that caused the surprise on the banks of Cardigan Bay. And indeed, in some Gwynedd villages English is still the exception rather than the rule.

Welsh has been the success story of the twentieth century when it comes to plotting the future of the world’s endangered languages. And endangered they certainly are. It is thought that half the languages of the planet, some three thousand in all, are unlikely to survive to the end of the present century.

That’s one language dying out somewhere in the world, on average, every two weeks.

About two thousand of those languages have never been written down. That’s the savage part. For when a language dies that has never been written down, it is as if it has never been. And that means the irretrievable loss of another unique vision of what it means to be human.

Many of those endangered languages have only a few dozen or a few hundred speakers. Welsh, by contrast, has over half a million. About a fifth of the people of Wales speak Welsh, and the numbers are steadily increasing. It is the only Celtic language to have done so well. The activism of the 1970s and the subsequent Language Acts, giving measures of protection to the language, helped enormously. Plus radio and TV channels in the medium of Welsh.

I sat in the stone boat next to the hotel and looked across the Dwyryd estuary. It was early afternoon, and the tide was coming in. Some people were walking on the estuary sands in the distance. They would have to watch out. The sea comes in very quickly here, and it’s easy to get cut off.

When was English first spoken along the banks of this estuary, I wondered. And when Welsh? And what was the language that was here before Welsh? Nobody knows how many languages have been spoken on earth since the human race developed the ability to speak. Some people think as many as 150,000. Maybe more. The six thousand or so we have left today are only a fraction of what may have been.

Sometimes you can see a trace of an earlier period of language inhabitation. In the territory between Spain and France you will find Basque, unrelated to any modern language, and in structure quite unlike the Indo-European languages surrounding it. People think it is the last example of the languages which were spoken in Europe before the invaders from Asia arrived.

The tide had almost reached the group walking on the sands, but they seemed oblivious. Some Portmeirion regulars were sitting nearby, bemoaning the way some people ‘don’t take any notice of the warnings’. The hotel staff were used to it. A man with a megaphone came out and bellowed. The walkers scuttled. I asked him whether this happened often. ‘Not so much these days,’ he said. ‘The time of the high tide is printed on the ticket.’

His accent wasn’t local, and I couldn’t immediately place it. ‘You don’t sound as if you’re from these parts, then?’ I asked. I can never resist an unfamiliar accent.

Nor an unfamiliar name. Once I was looking for a particular old edition of Hamlet, and called an antiquarian book company that I thought might have it. The person who answered the phone said she would look, and asked me to call her back. ‘Ask for Lassarina,’ she said.

I couldn’t stop myself. ‘That’s a lovely name,’ I said. And as I said it, I thought, she’ll think this is a come-on, so I hastily added, ‘You see I’m a linguist and I’m interested in the history of names and I’ve not come across that one before and do you know what it means and how do you spell it?’ Then I thought, that sounds totally implausible, even more of a come-on! But she reacted equably, and said she’d no idea, but thought it was Irish. She spelled it out, and told me her friends called her Lassie for short.

‘Hold on a minute,’ I said, and I rushed over to my bookcase, where I had some ‘origins of names’ books. There she was, Lassarina, an anglicized form of Gaelic Lasairiona, a combination of lasair and fion, ‘flame’ and ‘wine’. I picked up the phone and told her. She was delighted. People usually are when you do a bit of etymological digging on their behalf.

I thought that piece of mini-research might get me a discount on my Hamlet, but no such luck. Maybe if I’d called her Lassie… But I couldn’t do that to a non-canine.

Then, in one of those coincidences that make linguistic life worthwhile, I came across the name again a few weeks later. In Irish writer Padraic Colum’s collection of stories called The King of Ireland’s Son, published in 1916, there is a character called Lassarina.

‘I’m from near Norwich,’ the hotel man replied to my question about his origins. He pronounced it as a single syllable – ‘norrch’. He added: ‘Little place called Caistor.’

Caistor-by-Norwich. I knew it, Horatio. It’s famous – at least to people interested in English historical linguistics. It’s the place where they found the earliest runic inscription known in England. Caistor was originally a Roman base – the name comes from Latin castra, ‘fort’ – and in a cremation cemetery there they found the anklebone of a roe deer. It was probably used as a plaything – perhaps as part of a dice game – but what made it special was the inscription on the side: raihan, written in Germanic runes. Raihan means ‘roe deer’.

The shape of the H rune attracted especial attention. It has a single cross-bar. This is typical of the kind of runic writing found in northern parts of Europe. Further south they wrote H with two cross-bars, . This suggests that the person who wrote the inscription came from Scandinavia.

The significance of the find to linguists is that it dates from around the year ad 400. The Anglo-Saxons did not arrive in Britain until 449. This person was using a Germanic language in East Anglia well before the well-known Germanic invasions began.

East Anglia is the place to be if you are looking for early evidence of the English language. In 1981 a farmer found a gold bracteate – a kind of medallion, fashioned with eyelets so that it could be worn around the neck – at Undley Common, near Lakenheath in Suffolk. It dates from around ad 475, within a generation of the Anglo- Saxons arriving. It seems to be modelled after an old Roman coin from the time of Constantine the Great in the early fourth century. It shows a helmeted head of the emperor next to a she-wolf suckling two children – presumably a representation of the story of Romulus and Remus.

And there is an inscription: a sequence of runes, written around the edge from right to left. Transliterated into the Latin alphabet, the runes say gægogæ mægæ medu. It would have been pronounced roughly ‘ga-gog-a ma-ga may-doo’. Inscriptions are often sentences. If so, this is the oldest known sentence in the language which would one day be called English. But what does it mean?

The second and third words aren’t a problem. Mægæ probably comes from mæg, ‘kinsman, companion’. Depending on how the ending is interpreted, the sense is either ‘of a/the kinsman’ or ‘to a/the kinsman’. Medu is likely to be an early form of the word med or meord – meaning ‘reward’. The closest modern equivalent is the archaism meed. An alternative suggestion is that it is something to do with the drink, ‘mead’.

Scholars have puzzled over the first word. It has an unusual phonetic shape, with its three gs, suggesting it might be a nonsense word – a magical formula, perhaps, or a tribal shout of some kind. The form gagaga has been found on a sixth-century spear-shaft from Kragehul in Denmark, suggesting a battle-cry. And lots of magic words use a reduplicated sequence of sounds: abracadabra, alakazam, hocus pocus… Wizzo the wizard (aka American magician Marshall Brodien) says ‘Doodee, doodee, doodee’ to get a trick to work.

On the other hand, it could be a real word. There are words in Old English with three gs in them, such as gegongan (‘conquer’), gegogud (‘relying on’), gegegnian (‘meet’). And there are words with similarities in form to which gægogæ could relate. The first syllable might be a prefix, an early form of ge–, which is common in Old English (as it is in modern German). The root of the word, –go–, might be related to a word such as geomrian, ‘lament’. The ending might be a marker of femaleness. Thinking along these lines, the Swedish linguist Bengt Odenstedt suggested the reading ‘howling female wolf’, referring to the picture on the bracteate. There have been other interpretations.

If Odenstedt is right, then the inscription could mean ‘this howling she-wolf to a kinsman [is] a reward’. It’s certainly a plausible interpretation. But it’s no more than a well-informed guess.

The Undley Bracteate, as it is called, is now in the British Museum, in the study collection of the Department of Medieval and Modern Europe. Other coins in the museum collection show runic inscriptions too, but they are usually even less decodable. The hope is that, as more finds are made, the semantic clues will increase, and things will become clearer. But often the finds just add even more puzzles.

In August 1997 a man with a metal detector found a gold coin at Billockby, a few miles north-west of Great Yarmouth in Norfolk. It is now in the Fitzwilliam Museum in Cambridge. It was a tremissis – a coin with the value of one-third of a solidus – thought to date from around ad 670. A number of coins of the same general type had been found previously – including one at Caistor – but this was the first to display a runic inscription.

The solidus had been used in the Roman Empire since the time of Emperor Constantine, and would stay in use until the tenth century. We remember it in modern English in several words, such as solid, solidarity – and soldier. Roman soldiers were paid with the solidus.

The inscription is very faint in places – perhaps through wear and tear, or perhaps it was badly stamped when the coin was made. It is possible to make out a sequence of l, t, o, e, and d, and there may be an i at the beginning and an h or g at the end. Nobody has any idea what this might mean.

‘I know Caistor,’ I said to the man from the hotel. I should have said ‘know of’, I suppose, for I have never been there; but it’s a curious fact that when you study the linguistic history of a place, you quickly develop a sense of intimacy about it. I do feel I ‘know’ Caistor. It’s much more than ‘know of’.

I was spared an interrogation, however, because a loud bell sounded, and the man dashed away to deal with it. Maybe it was a fire alarm. People at the Portmeirion hotel would be especially sensitive to that. The present hotel isn’t the one that was originally developed by Clough Williams-Ellis. That burned down during the night of 5 June 1981. It didn’t reopen until 1988.

‘Fire’ was the symbolic meaning of one of the runes: <, called cen (pronounced ‘cane’). An Old English poem has been preserved, in which each symbol in the runic alphabet is given a poetic gloss. This is what the poet has to say about cen. (The p and ð letters are pronounced as modern ‘th’.)

Cen byp cwicera gehwam, cup on fyre

blac ond beorhtlic, byrnep oftust

ðærhi æpelingas inne restap.

‘The torch is known to everyone alive by its pale, bright flame; it always burns where princes sit within.’

Time was passing, and I had to move on. I had to be in Hay-on-Wye that evening. The sands in the estuary were rapidly disappearing. The family that had been walking there had reached the harbour wall, and were talking furiously amongst themselves. I didn’t recognize the language. Maybe it was Basque.

As I walked up the hill towards the car park a man passed me wearing a huge Prisoner badge with a penny-farthing bicycle and a number 6 on it. That was another mysterious thing about the Village. A penny-farthing bike would appear here and there for no apparent reason.

There is something especially dehumanizing when people are given numbers instead of names. It doesn’t take a television programme to tell us that. We have seen it in the form of the labels and tattoos which identify incarcerated victims everywhere.

I suppose the practice of giving names to houses arose from a desire to avoid the impersonal effect of house numbering. That’s understandable. It’s the naming of streets by numbers that has always puzzled me. First Street, Second Street, Tenth Street, Thirty-Eighth Street… Why would anyone choose such an unimaginative and mechanical method of locating where they live?

It seems to be an American practice. Europeans don’t go in for it. On the contrary. Mainland European cities tend to personalize street locations as much as possible. Place Victor Hugo in Paris. Schillerstrasse in Berlin. Queen Caroline Street in London. Albert Cuyp Market in Amsterdam. The comparative literature critic George Steiner thinks that this is one of the major features of a European –as opposed to a New World –mindset. Europeans, he asserts, ‘inhabit echo-chambers of historical, intellectual, artistic, and scientific achievements’ as they walk through the streets of the cities of Europe.

Mind you, the Americans make up for it by being highly personal when they name towns and cities. There are twenty-three states in the USA which have a city called Washington.

The American practice of multiplying place-names can get confusing, though. There is a Wyoming city in Ohio and an Ohio city in Illinois. There are Californias in Kentucky, Maryland, Missouri, and Pennsylvania. A city called Iowa is in Louisiana; the city of Louisiana is in Missouri; and Missouri City is in Texas.

By contrast, the British tend to shy away from naming towns and cities after people. There is no city in England called Shakespeare or Chaucer or George or Elizabeth. And there is certainly no tendency in the UK to follow the Russian fashion, where a whole town might be renamed following someone’s special achievement. After the death of the world’s first astronaut Yuri Gagarin in 1968, the town of Gzhatsk near his birthplace was renamed Gagarin in his honour.

Things were different in Anglo-Saxon times. Then a common way of naming a place was to name it after the tribal chief who lived there. Thus, we have Reading – ‘the people of Raed’or ‘Raeda’–and Dagenham – ‘Dacca’s homestead’. The Danes did the same: Grimsby is the village where Grimr lived.

The Welsh go in for person-names too. Llanfair – ‘Mary’s Church’. Porthmadog – ‘Madog’s Harbour’. Caergybi – ‘Cybi’s Fort’.

Portmeirion? Port + Meirion, from Meirionydd –Merioneth in English –the old name of the county in which the village is located. It can be traced back to the name of a fifth-century Welsh prince.

It’s always a risky business trying to make a generalization about names. There are always exceptions. For instance, for years I’d laboured under the illusion that if a person’s name had an initial in the middle, the letter must stand for a specific name. Then I encountered President Harry S. Truman.

I spent a week once trying to discover what the ‘S’ stood for. Finally, in his daughter’s autobiography, I found out. It appears that Truman’s parents had difficulty deciding which of his two grandfathers to name him after. One was called Solomon and the other was called Shippe. The identical initial presented a solution. Harry was called Harry S, and it was left up to the two sides of the family to interpret the initial as they wished.

I looked back across the village before getting in my car. Times have changed since they filmed The Prisoner. The green-painted wooden dome which acted as Number 2’s residence was replaced in the early nineties by a new copper dome. But all shall be well. It will eventually turn verdigris green once again.

4

Where are You From?

WELSHPOOL

The A487 away from Portmeirion runs alongside the Ffestiniog steam railway for a while, then winds its way through the edges of Snowdonia National Park. It was a clear day, and every now and then I could see the dramatic peaks of the Snowdon range. All highly photogenic, as film companies have repeatedly seen.

Take a left at Penrhyndeudraeth and you soon pass through Carreg Llanfrothen. There you will find Plas Brondanw, the family home of Clough Williams-Ellis. The ‘Dr Who’ series The Five Doctors was shot at the Folly Castle in the grounds. So was some of Brideshead Revisited. And, if you could time-travel back to 1958, you would encounter hundreds of Liverpudlian Chinese children marching with Ingrid Bergman across stand-in Chinese mountains for The Inn of the Sixth Happiness.

The roads through Snowdonia resound with the echoes of famous films. Carry On Up the Khyber was shot along the Watkin Path, one of the routes up Snowdon. Tomb Raider 2 used the environs of Llyn Gwynant. James Bond was in the area (for From Russia with Love), as were Robin Hood and Merlin.

That’s North Wales for you. One enormous film set. You can measure out any journey in film locations.

Robin Hood is a bit of a surprise, but you would expect Merlin to be here, in view of his home-grown origins – Merlin is an adaptation of Myrddin, according to the twelfth-century chronicler Geoffrey of Monmouth in his Historia Regum Britanniae (‘History of the Kingdom of Britain’). Myrddin in turn comes from Caerfyrddin, the Welsh name of the county of Carmarthen, where he is supposed to have been born. Where exactly is a conundrum. I have lost track of the number of places in Wales – let alone elsewhere – which claim his presence, in birth, life, or death. There are several caves and mounds associated with him or his battles. I would pass at least three on the way to Hay.

In the meantime I followed the A470 winding south towards mid- Wales. I soon reached Lake Trawsfynydd, and in the distance, on the lakeside edge, I could see the solid mass of the old power station. It started service in the 1960s, but was decommissioned in 1991. What do you do with a retired power station? Turn it into a film set, of course. It was the location of Camelot in First Knight. They built the town on the shore of the lake and transformed the front of the power station into a castle.

Shame they had to build a mock castle, seeing as real castles abound in the region. I had passed four already on my journey from Gaerwen – Beaumaris, Caernarfon, Criccieth, and Harlech.

Every time I see the turning to Harlech, ‘Men of Harlech’ comes into my head. The song commemorates the men who defended the castle during a long siege in the Wars of the Roses in the fifteenth century. It is one of the few Welsh songs that has crossed the border into England. It achieved worldwide – or at least, Hollywood – fame when it was sung in the film Zulu by the men of the Welsh regiment fighting in the Battle of Rorke’s Drift.

Did they sing it, really, in 1879? The song was first published in 1860, and the regiment didn’t officially adopt it until 1881. It seems unlikely. But it was a great film moment, nonetheless.

I had to make a decision after Trawsfynydd. Should I turn east and cut across through Bala towards Welshpool? Or should I keep going on the A470 south through Dolgellau and on towards Builth Wells? Linguistically, there was no contest. Welshpool is in marcher country. England is just a mile or so away. And marcher country is an excellent breeding ground for interesting accents. But time wasn’t on my side. I had to go ‘straight down the middle’, as they say in Wales.

Marcher has nothing to do with marching. It comes from Old English mearc, which meant ‘boundary’. That’s why people talk about ‘the Marches’, referring to the land on either side of the Welsh–English border. The modern word mark is related. Offa’s Dyke closely follows the modern border, going back and forth across it several times.

Offa was the Anglo-Saxon king of Mercia between 757 and 796. He built the dyke to protect his kingdom from invasion by Welsh barbarians. It reaches twenty feet in height in some places along its eighty-mile length. One end is at Prestatyn in the north; as you travel south it passes Llangollen, Chirk, Knighton, Hay, and Monmouth; the other end is at Chepstow. It isn’t continuous. Offa may never have finished it; or maybe he decided to save unnecessary labour and let other natural obstacles fill the gaps.

The earthworks are especially prominent at Knighton. Indeed, the town’s entrance sign now has the caption: ‘The Town on the Dyke’. It boasts an excellent information centre.

Beware. If you look up Offa’s Dyke on an Internet search engine, you may need to do two searches. They spell dyke with an i in American English.

The name Welshpool means exactly what it says: ‘Welsh’ + ‘pool’. But the pool in question is not just an area of water. The original thirteenth-century borough was called Pola, and this developed into Pool. The region was known for its marshy land – the flood-prone River Severn is not far away – and in Welsh the local name is Y Trallwng, meaning ‘the sinking land’. But when the railways developed in the nineteenth century, the railway companies felt that travellers would get confused with the other Poole, in Dorset – so they changed the name to Welshpool, and it stayed.

I had already visited Welshpool a few weeks earlier, as it happened, as part of the same BBC project which had brought me to the sheep market in Gaerwen. On that visit I ended up in a different kind of market (fruit and veg), in the town centre, talking to one of the stallholders. What I was hoping to record was evidence of a mixed accent – one displaying features of both Welsh and English.

And that’s what I found. Here was a man who had lived all his life in Welshpool, but if you didn’t know that you might have placed him further south over the border in Herefordshire, or maybe even Gloucestershire. It was the phonetic quality of the r sound after the vowels in such words as car and heart that did it. He didn’t make it as a trilled sound, which is what you would expect to hear further into Wales. Rather, he curled the tip of his tongue back, producing a darker sound, more like a West Country or American r than anything else.

But it definitely wasn’t a West Country accent. Several of his vowel sounds were Welsh, as was the general lilt of his voice. And when I asked him if people recognized where he came from when he went on holiday, he was quite clear about it. ‘They always know I’m from Wales,’ he said. ‘But they think it’s Cardiff.’

Did everyone in the town have this ‘English r’, I wondered. And almost as soon as I had formulated the question, I had it answered. A customer arrived, a schoolfriend of the market-man. He too had lived in Welshpool all his life. They were the same age. They seemed to have similar farming backgrounds. And yet he had no trace of an r after vowels in his speech.

That’s one of the fascinating things about the way people speak along country borders. Because they are exposed to two ways of speaking, they make all kinds of different choices from the array of sounds that surround them. Even quite short distances can produce a noticeably different accent. I wasn’t surprised to learn that the two friends lived on opposite sides of the town.

I asked them whether they could tell the difference in the speech of someone from Welshpool itself and someone from nearby. ‘Of course,’ they said. ‘Someone from Llanfair Careinion sounds much more Welsh than we do,’ the market-man added. ‘I sometimes have difficulty understanding what they’re saying, when they come into the market.’ That village was just five miles to the west. ‘And if you go that way across the border,’ said his friend – gesturing vaguely towards England – ‘they’re even more different.’ That was only three miles away.

Professor Henry Higgins came to mind, from Shaw’s Pygmalion. He announces himself as a practitioner of phonetics: ‘The science of speech. That’s my profession, also my hobby. Anyone can spot an Irishman or a Yorkshireman by his brogue, but I can place a man within six miles. I can place him within two miles in London. Sometimes within two streets.’ And presumably in Welshpool, also.

Two streets? In parts of Victorian London, this might not have been too far from the truth. Accents identify communities, and there would have been areas abutting each other which displayed major social differences, and thus different accents. Then as now, Mayfair and the East End are two hugely contrasting linguistic worlds.

Higgins would have had an even more enjoyable time today. There are over 350 language communities in present-day London, and when people from these ethnic backgrounds speak English their accents inevitably reflect features of their mother-tongues. Nor is it just their accents. Words and features of grammar from their mother-tongue enter their English as well, producing new hybrid dialects – Bengali English, Hindi English, Chinese English… It’s all a natural process. Increased language variation is an inevitable consequence of an ethnically diverse society.

Phoneticians are having a great time trying to disentangle the multiple influences which operate on modern English accents, but it isn’t easy. The situation has changed dramatically in the past century. Until relatively recently, most people lived their whole lives in one place, and rarely travelled. They would encounter only the occasional visitor with a different regional accent. As a consequence, their local speech would change little during their lifetimes.

Today, people are always on the move. Commuting over long distances is normal. And even if you don’t commute, innumerable accents and dialects enter your home every day through radio and television, the telephone, and, these days, Internet telephony. People move house more than ever before. Formerly isolated villages now have their eye on attracting tourists. Second homes are everywhere. It is unusual to find a village which does not have some incomers. And incomers do not usually adopt the accent of their new hosts wholesale, as my Gaerwen shepherd illustrated.

But if incomers find themselves integrating well into their new community, they will inevitably pick up a few features of the local speech – new words, sentence patterns, sounds, tones of voice. They will still sound ‘foreign’ to the locals, and they may not notice that their speech has changed. But if after a while they pay a visit to where they lived before, it’s a typical experience to hear their old friends say they sound different.

My wife comes from Hertfordshire, and people in Holyhead, where we now live, readily notice the southern accent in her voice. When she goes back to Hertfordshire, they say she sounds Welsh.

Mixed accents are the norm these days. My own accent is a mix of the places I have lived in – Wales, Liverpool, London, Berkshire. That means it isn’t an entirely consistent accent. Sometimes I say example, with a short a, sometimes exahmple. I never know which it is going to be. It depends a lot on who I’m talking to.

Generational differences are an influence. My children all say schedule beginning with sk–, as Americans do. When I was their age, I always said shedule. Today, I say both. If I’m talking to them, I join their skedule community. Otherwise I say shedule. They swap about a bit too, depending on who they’re talking to.

Mixed accents mean that it isn’t so easy to identify where people come from any more, just by listening to their voices. Quite often, when I meet someone for the first time, and they learn I am a linguist and discover what linguists do, they say smugly: ‘I bet you can’t tell where I’m from.’ I never take the bet.

Radio programmes sometimes include quizzes or games with such names as ‘Where Are You From?’. A team listens to guests and tries to work out which part of the country they come from. It wasn’t too difficult to get the right answer a few decades ago. It’s much harder now. Impossible, with many speakers.

I left the fruit and veg market and drove to the edge of Welshpool, where I had an appointment with another accent. I was keen to explore the identity question again. Here were people who had no Welsh language ability and whose accent lacked some of the most distinctive features of the English accents people associate with Wales. Would they feel as Welsh as their compatriots from the Snowdon hillsides or the Rhondda valleys?

Indeed they would, and the lady I had come to see proved it in a most unorthodox style. Halfway through the interview she began to take her clothes off – Huw the cameraman couldn’t believe his lens – and displayed a Welsh dragon tattooed below her shoulder. She waxed lyrical about Wales. She was pregnant, and was determined that her baby would be born in Wrexham hospital and not in Shrewsbury, even though Wrexham was twice the distance away. Her speech had the English r in it again. To my ears, she hardly sounded Welsh at all. Evidently there isn’t always a correlation between the national recognizability of a person’s accent and the strength of the speaker’s feeling about national identity.

Henry Higgins would have loved all this. Or rather, Henry Sweet would. Or rather, Daniel Jones would. Was there a real-life model for Henry Higgins?

Henry Sweet was the leading English philologist and phonetician at Oxford in the late nineteenth century. Daniel Jones was Professor of Phonetics at University College London a generation later. Phonetics, as Higgins, said, is the science of speech – or, slightly more precisely, of human soundmaking. Phoneticians spend all their time happily analysing how people speak, how speech sounds are carried through the air, and what happens when people listen to them.

What phoneticians don’t do is work with people like Eliza Doolittle in the way that Higgins did. No phonetician these days would dream of trying to change someone’s natural pronunciation so that it sounds more like the upper-class accent of a country. Traditionally, the people who would do that sort of thing are called elocutionists. And even they value regional accents more these days than they used to. Audibility and clarity of speech are still important goals, but they can be achieved in any accent.

Shaw had had a great deal of correspondence with Sweet over the years, but he says quite plainly in the Preface to Pygmalion that ‘Higgins is not a portrait of Sweet.’ Yet he adds: ‘still… there are touches of Sweet in the play’. Shaw was puzzled that Sweet had not achieved greater public recognition, given his scholarly achievements. ‘With Higgins’s physique and temperament,’ he says, ‘Sweet might have set the Thames on fire.’ Shaw felt the reason was the way phonetics as a subject was being seriously underrated at Oxford, and he concludes: ‘if the play makes the public aware that there are such people as phoneticians and that they are among the most important people in England at present, it will serve its turn’.

Phoneticians among the most important people in England? Could there be any doubt? But when non-phoneticians say so, it makes you think, well, maybe they are. And Shaw is not alone in his opinion. The novelist Anthony Burgess states just as firmly, in the epilogue to his language memoir A Mouthful of Air: ‘Phonetics, phonetics, and again phonetics. There cannot be too much phonetics.’

It was probably Shaw’s correspondence with Sweet, along with supposed similarities between the characters of Higgins and Sweet, who didn’t suffer fools gladly, that led people to assume that the one was based on the other. In fact, if Shaw is making a bow in the direction of a real phonetician at all, it has to be Daniel Jones, who in his youth had worked with Sweet.

Jones helped Shaw in several ways. He gave him advice on phonetic detail, corresponded with him several times, and invited him to see his department at University College London. The technology used in Higgins’ laboratory in the play is close to what would have been in a phonetics department of the day. After Pygmalion was completed, Shaw offered Jones an unlimited supply of complimentary tickets to see it.

Where did the name of Higgins come from? By all accounts, it was borrowed from a London shop sign. By whose accounts? Jones himself, via one of his students. It seems that Shaw was riding on the deck of a bus through South London, wondering what name he should give his character, and saw the shop name ‘Jones and Higgins’. The student recalled Jones saying: ‘he could not call me Jones, so he called me Higgins’.

If Shaw’s bus route was through Peckham, he couldn’t have missed the shop. Jones and Higgins was the largest and most prestigious department store in the area, in Rye Lane. It closed down in 1980, but the distinctive building is still there.

Why couldn’t Shaw call his character Jones? It would have been very risky to portray a living character as a fictional one. Flattering as the idea might seem at first, we can immediately imagine the real-life source being unflattered by aspects of Higgins’ character. The plot contained taboo language. Higgins, moreover – to put it in modern terms – has an affair with one of his students. Not the best set of associations for a career academic.

Furthermore, the play wasn’t doing phonetics many favours. True, it brought the word phonetics to the attention of millions who might not otherwise have heard of it, but – as Jones himself remarked – ‘In Pygmalion phonetics is represented as providing a key to social advancement,’ and he adds, drily, ‘a function which it may be hoped it will not be called upon to perform indefinitely.’ His dryness, it seems, was replaced by fury when he saw the play on the first night. This was not how he wanted phonetics to be seen.

In The Real Professor Higgins, Jones’s biographers conclude that he wanted to distance himself from the character and the play, and that Shaw agreed. Shaw then went further, writing a preface which made no reference to Jones but hinted at a portrayal of the now-deceased Sweet. The ruse was successful. Nobody publicly associated Jones with Higgins, and Sweet remained the link in the public mind.

And in mine. For many years I thought it was Sweet, and I say so in a book or two. I recant.

There is a lot of recanting to be done. Type ‘Henry Sweet and Henry Higgins’ into Google and you will get over 800,000 hits. Start scrolling down and you will see the Sweet claim asserted over and over.

Another of Jones’s students was David Abercrombie, who later became Professor of Phonetics at Edinburgh. He passed his recollections of Jones on to one of his students, Peter Ladefoged. And this brings the story up to date. Because it was Ladefoged who acted as the phonetics consultant for My Fair Lady, the screen adaptation of Pygmalion, designing Higgins’ laboratory and sounding out the vowels that Eliza hears there on her first visit.

At the very beginning of the film, Higgins shows Eliza his notebook, in which he has been transcribing her speech in Sweet’s Revised Romic phonetic script, and the camera shows us what he has written. In the upper paragraph of the right-hand page, there is a transcription of her utterance ‘I say, captain…’. It is the lower paragraph that is interesting, for it is nothing to do with the film at all. It is a greeting to David Abercrombie from Ladefoged. I wonder if director George Cukor knew?

If you have a DVD of the film, pause it at that point and look at the third line up from the bottom. It says:

Peter Ladefoged died in London in January 2006, on his way back from a field trip working on the Toda language in India, just as I began writing this book. It was a tremendous loss to the world of phonetics.

One of his many interests was a concern to establish just how many vowels and consonants the human vocal tract is capable of producing in the languages of the world. The answer is more than people think. He estimated that there were over eight hundred different consonants and some two hundred different vowels.

First impressions count, so I have good cause to remember David Abercrombie. I first met him when I was an external examiner for his department in Edinburgh, back in the 1970s. Or rather, I met an aspect of his character before I actually met him. I had arrived a little early at the university, so I made my way to his office, where, the departmental secretary had told me, there were some examination scripts waiting for me to read.

I knocked at the door. No reply, but it was unlocked so I went in. There in the middle of the room was a fridge, and on top of the fridge a piece of cardboard with a large green arrow on it, pointing towards the door of the fridge. I opened the door. Inside were the examination scripts. And on top of the scripts were a bottle of French wine, a glass, and a corkscrew. No examiner ever had such a pleasant introduction to the dull routine of marking.

We had dinner at the Old Howgate Inn in Penicuik, just south of Edinburgh, where I learned that David had a house in France and was one of the Confrérie des Chevaliers du Tastevin, the elite wine-tasting society in Burgundy. The restaurant-owner knew him well, and when it came to choosing a wine, there was nothing as mundane as a wine list to read. Instead, we were ushered down into the wine cellar, and the bottle was chosen straight from the racks. I learned more about wine from that one meal than I have ever done since. I just wish I could remember half of it.

Henry Higgins wasn’t the first fictional language expert. Four hundred years earlier, Shakespeare had given us the caricature of the pedantic schoolteacher Holofernes in Love’s Labour’s Lost. Holofernes is very much concerned with correct Latin and with English spelling. He insists on having words pronounced as they are spelled. People (he is thinking of Don Armado in particular) should pronounce the b in doubt and debt, he says, and the l in calf and half. And as for leaving out the h in abhominable… Those who do so are ‘rackers of orthography’, he says – torturers of spelling – and they ‘insinuateth me of insanie’. They drive him mad!

There were several linguistic pedants around in Shakespeare’s day, most of them interested in ways of reforming English spelling. Any of them might have been the model for Holofernes. One of them was Richard Mulcaster, the first headmaster of Merchant Taylors’ School in North London, and the teacher of Edmund Spenser, who would become the leading Elizabethan poet. Another was the humanist scholar Roger Ascham, the young Princess Elizabeth’s Greek and Latin tutor, famous for his 1570 treatise on the best way of teaching Latin, The Scholemaster.

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Yaş sınırı:
0+
Litres'teki yayın tarihi:
30 haziran 2019
Hacim:
351 s. 3 illüstrasyon
ISBN:
9780007284061
Telif hakkı:
HarperCollins

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