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After examining this interesting factory, we went to the Juniata foundry, belonging to Mr. Schöneberger. It was a holy-day, as the men were training in the militia. The militia system is neither popular in this country nor profitable: the militia are trained for two days in the year, of course they can learn very little; the manufacturers lose the work of their people, and the workmen lose their pay. Neither is the Pittsburgh militia uniformed nor armed. The only operation we witnessed to-day at the Juniata works, was the grinding of the cast smoothing-irons, which was done first by stone, and then by wooden wheels, turned by a horse-mill.

We afterwards visited Mr. Volz, and saw a domestic warehouse containing all home manufactured articles; a really interesting museum of western industry to strangers. All the fabrics of the city and vicinity are brought here and offered for sale on commission. The articles are chiefly cast and wrought iron wares, all the utensils necessary for cotton or woollen factories, dye-houses &c., and various sorts of pure white, white and blue mixed, or plain blue cotton stuffs, but no printed calico. Some of the woollen cloths were very fine, and sold for seven dollars a yard; they were made at Steubenville. A good lasting dye-stuff for wool is still to be desired. I saw here some newly-invented locks; fine steelware is not very abundant, and the cutlery business is still in its infancy.

Finally, we visited Mr. Eichbaum, seventy-six years old; he is a glass-cutter, father of the owner of a wire factory, and postmaster of the city. By his skill and industry he has amassed a very handsome fortune. He was formerly in Carlsruhe, and boasted much of the court of Baden, and particularly of the wife of the Margrave.

CHAPTER XXV

Journey to Philadelphia, and second stay in that city

On the 23d of May, at eight o’clock, we commenced our journey to Philadelphia, in the mail stage. I left Pittsburgh with much regret; it pleased me in every respect, and would have pleased me still more had I continued there longer. Two roads lead from Pittsburgh to Harrisburg, the northern and the southern, and as it was of no moment which I took, I chose the former, as this was travelled by the stage, which leaves Ramsay’s hotel. We rode fifty-six miles to Armagh, and changed horses but twice, at M‘Miller’s and New Alexandria. These changes are too distant to allow the horses to travel with rapidity, and they have in Pennsylvania a custom of watering the horses every three or four miles. The country is hilly; the road had been a turnpike, is still so called, and is furnished with toll-gates, where toll must be paid, but is in a dreadfully bad state. The traveller is jolted in a barbarous manner, and still makes but little progress; the heat and the dust of this day were almost intolerable. We met many travellers and emigrants from the east, going with their families and goods to the western states, to settle there. The western states appear to the inhabitants of the eastern and northern states, in the same light in which Europeans, and particularly the Germans, view the United States in general. They expect to find here the land of promise, where milk and honey flows, and are sometimes much disappointed; though many, however, derive great advantage from the change.

We passed through East Liberty, Wilkinsburgh, Murrysville, New Alexandria and Blairsville – all unimportant. The streams were the Loyalhanna and the Connamaughe, with high and rocky shores. Wooden bridges are thrown over these rivers, but are so bad that one of our leaders broke through two planks of one of them, and was extricated with much difficulty. In the evening we passed over the first of the chains of mountains, which cross this country from south-west to north-east, and divide the regions of the Mississippi from the Atlantic states. It was Chesnut-ridge, which is tolerably high. Beyond this we saw a still more mountainous region; the valleys we met with were in a state of cultivation. It was eleven o’clock at night before we reached Armagh, as the accident on the bridge had detained us some time. At two o’clock, A. M. we continued our journey.

We rode fifty-eight miles to Alexandria, through Ebensburg, Munster, Blair’s Gap, Hollydaysburg, and Williamsburg. A few miles beyond Armagh, we came to another of the parallel ridges, called Laurel hill. I ascended the mountain on foot; as the sun was just rising, the fresh and green dress of the trees, together with the fragrance of the blooming azaleas, made a very pleasing impression on me. These honeysuckles were in bloom on almost all the mountains which we passed this day; rose-coloured kalmias began to bloom; the rhododendrons had not yet commenced. The fragrance of the white acacias was often combined with that of the azaleas. The other trees which we saw on this mountain, were chesnut, walnut, and hickory trees, sumac, some large-leaved linden trees, large pines, maples, and planes; the two latter kinds, however, were found in greater numbers in the valleys. Amid these mountains, with their lovely prospects, and this splendid vegetation, the mind feels itself exalted, and the heart strengthened. This enjoyment, however, of the traveller, is somewhat diminished by the bad roads, which appear to be neglected, although the payment of toll is not forgotten.

After we descended Laurel hill, we rode several miles through a tolerably thick woods, and reached Ebensburg, where we changed horses for the first time. This is a small and handsomely situated place, of about three hundred inhabitants, appearing, however, rather to decrease than increase. Two miles from this place, lies a small and quite deserted village, called Beula, founded by Welchmen, who, however, dispersed, as they found it of no advantage to continue there. After leaving Ebensburg, and behind this place, we ascended the Alleghany mountains, the highest in this region. The highest point which we passed is called Blair’s Gap, and considered to be more than three thousand feet above the level of the sea. The turnpike, though neglected, is still well laid out, and the ascent of the mountain is by no means steep. These regions have a remarkable aspect, they consist of ridges, which adjoin each other, and are of a prismatic form; the ridge above is perfectly level, and only thirty paces broad. When standing in front of such a ridge, one mountain appears as high and long as the other, which adjoins it.

After leaving the Alleghany mountains, of whose vegetation the same remark might be made as of Laurel hill, we reached a lovely valley, where we found by the side of a creek, a large stone mill, and a group of good houses, Blair’s Gap post-office. We here again changed horses. This creek is called Beaverdam creek, and empties into the Juniata, between Hollydaysburg and Frankstown. The region near this stream is said to produce good iron, and, as was before remarked, much use is made at Harper’s Ferry of Juniata iron. At Frankstown we reached the Juniata, and passed the rest of the day on its shores. The road often ran close to the river. Here, as well as on the passage over the mountains, railings were altogether wanting on the turnpike, and the road often passes by the edge of deep precipices. When large wagons meet, a false step of a horse at these dangerous places would have led to our unavoidable destruction. The road is often cut out of the rock; we remarked at several places in the mountains, declivities, which seem to be strewed with pieces of rocks of different sizes in a very remarkable manner.

Beyond Frankstown we came to a valley, which is formed on the right side by Lock mountain, and on the left by Brush mountain. Parallel with the latter, for a short distance runs a ridge, which commences in this valley, and is called Canoe mountains. It commences with a single hill, Canoe hill, which forms a right-angle, and in a manner closes the valley. Between this hill and Lock mountains, the Juniata forces its passage; the road leads over Canoe hill to a handsome valley, called Canoe valley, in the centre of which stands an inn with a farm, named Yellow Spring. This name is derived from a spring, arising in a rocky basin behind the farm, not far from which it empties into the Juniata. The spring is said to be chalybeate, and to give the stones over which it flows a yellow colour; however, neither taste nor sight could distinguish the chalybeate qualities. Some miles from Alexandria we passed a defile in the Tussey mountains, where the Juniata again forces its way. About nine o’clock, P. M., we arrived at Alexandria, where we passed the night. Here I heard in the evening, for the first time the croaking of the large frog, known under the name of bullfrog. It resembles the bleating of a calf, or rather the roaring of a young steer. Alexandria is a small place, and contains about three hundred inhabitants.

We intended to leave Alexandria at three o’clock, A. M., but the driver overslept himself, and we were obliged to wait till four o’clock. We rode sixty miles to Thomsonstown. The country was again tolerably hilly; we remained for the most part on the left side of the Juniata. A few miles below Alexandria we passed indeed by a ford to the right side, but after passing a mountain, belonging to Warrior’s ride, we returned seven miles below at Huntingdon, to the left side again, under a roofed bridge. We passed through Huntingdon; Lamberts, where we changed horses; and Waynesburg, Lewistown, Mifflin and Mexico. These places in general were unimportant, but well-built, with many substantial houses. Between Huntingdon and Waynesburg, the road led through Jack’s mountains, at the place where the Juniata forces its passage. The road is here generally cut through the rock, and runs without railings along a deep precipice by the river. After this, comes Juniata valley, which is formed on the left by the low Limestone-ridge, behind which, the high Jack’s mountains rise, and on the right by Blue-ridge, which rises immediately out of the Juniata. This valley reminded me of the regions on the river Lahn in Nassau, except that the mountains of the Lahn are not so high as these, and not so handsomely covered with trees to their summit. Waynesburg, where we again changed horses, occupies a very romantic situation on the Juniata. Lewistown on the Juniata, is well-built and finely situated. The road hence to Thomsonstown, led through a hilly country along the river and continued bad. On the other side of the river, the high Tuscarora mountains rise. The river is navigable from this place to Waynesburg; we saw keel-boats in it. We did not reach Thomsonstown till ten o’clock at night; we had seen but little of the surrounding country, though I heard it was very handsome.

May 26th, we arose at two o’clock, A. M., and rode to Lancaster, distant seventy-one miles, through Millerstown, Coxtown, Harrisburg, High Spire, Middletown, Rockstown, Franklin, Elizabethtown and Mountjoy. At first the road went through a hilly country along the left side of the Juniata; then we crossed in a boat at Beelen’s Ferry. The water was low, so that the rocky bottom of the river could be seen. A canal, which is already marked out, is intended to obviate the difficulties of the navigation, arising from the low state of the water. The road which we now passed, and which was not a turnpike, led us over three hills, Limestone-ridge, Mahony-ridge and Dick’s hill to Clark’s Ferry, on the Susquehanna, a little below the place where the Juniata empties into the Susquehanna, which is here about a mile wide, and rushes between two high ridges over a very rocky bed, in which at several places dams have been raised with passages in order to facilitate the navigation. On the left side a canal had already been laid out. At Clark’s Ferry, we had an extremely handsome view of the Susquehanna, which is here surrounded by such high mountains, that it resembles a lake, and calls to mind Lake George, in New York. On the left its junction with the Juniata takes place, and on the right it forces itself through a gap in a high ridge, which on the right side is called Mount Peter, and on the left, Cave mountain. Through this opening another valley is seen bounded by the Blue mountains. The broad Susquehanna is seen in front, and the high Mount Peter on the other shore.

At Clark’s Ferry we crossed the Susquehanna in a ferry-boat. The water was so clear, that the rocky bottom could be distinctly seen. Cove mountain forms an arch on the right shore, and touches the Susquehanna with its two extremities, not far from Clark’s Ferry, and again eight miles below; at this place a rocky mountain nine hundred feet high on the left shore corresponds with it, and forms a part of a ridge called Second mountain. In a space of eight miles, four ridges of mountains run parallel to each other, first Mount Peter, then Third mountain, afterwards Second mountain, and last the Blue mountains. This country is said to abound in good stone-coal. The road which we travelled is a turnpike, and runs between the Susquehanna and this mountain, out of which it is partly cut. The Blue mountains, through which the Susquehanna forces its way at right angles, forms the last chain of mountains on our route. I had first seen this chain of mountains at Nazareth, then at Harper’s Ferry, as I went to the west, and last of all, as I travelled in an eastern direction from Staunton to Charlotteville.

Behind the Blue mountains we saw grain and Indian corn flourish in a cultivated region, and reached Harrisburg. We delayed here about two hours, and met with a stage which had come from Pittsburgh by the southern road. Harrisburg is two hundred and nine miles from Pittsburgh, and a hundred from Philadelphia, occupies a somewhat elevated position between the left side of the Susquehanna and Paxton creek, and may contain about four thousand inhabitants. It is the metropolis and seat of government of the state of Pennsylvania, and contains a capitol, with the other necessary buildings. These stand on an elevation, commanding the city; the capitol is in the middle, and on both sides of it are two buildings containing public offices. All three are of brick, and their entrances decorated with colonnades of white stone. These columns stand in a semicircle. The capitol consists of two stories, with a cupola sustained by columns. The assembly rooms of the senate and of the representatives are in the lower story; the seats are arranged in a semicircle, and rise in height as in an amphitheatre. The upper story contains lodgings for the governor, which are indeed splendid, however, the present governor, Mr. Shulze, does not use them, and inhabits a private house in the city. I regretted that my time did not allow me to form a personal acquaintance with this public officer, of whom such different opinions have been entertained. The capitol and offices are covered with slate, whilst the houses of the city are generally roofed with shingles. The city is regularly built, with paved streets, and contains many brick houses, a court-house, and a jail. A covered wooden bridge leads over the Susquehanna, which is divided by an island in the river into two parts. The piers of this bridge consist of stone, not united by mortar, but by iron clamps.

At two o’clock in the afternoon we left Harrisburg, and rode thirty-six miles farther to Lancaster, in hot weather and much dust. The road was better, the stage more convenient, the changes shorter, and the passage quicker. We continued on the left side of the Susquehanna for nine miles; at Middletown we forded the Swatara creek, although a handsome wooden roofed bridge leads over it, and then left the shores of the Susquehanna. After passing Conewago creek, we entered Lancaster county, celebrated for its good cultivation, and almost entirely inhabited by descendants of Germans. The fields all appear to be extremely well cultivated; worm-fences were superseded by posts and rails. I was particularly struck with the barns, which often look better than the dwelling-houses; the houses are generally of wood, and not handsome, whereas the barns are generally built of stone, at least the lower parts containing the stabling, and the two gable-ends. Between these, the barn is built of wood; a broad ascent leads to the entrance on one side, and on the other, the barn forms a broad shed over the entrances of the stables. The cattle and horses appear to great advantage, and the breeding of sheep seems to receive attention. The houses are surrounded by orchards, and in the greater part of these I observed cider presses. The smiths here burn their charcoal close to the shops; I saw near several of these charcoal kilns on fire, in the villages. We passed by means of wooden bridges two small creeks, Little Chickie and Big Chickie creeks.

The bridges over the Swatara rest on dry stone piers. Instead of worm fences and other hedging, I saw to-day, also, some dry walls, such as I had seen last summer in Massachusetts. We came to Lancaster at ten o’clock at night, and found lodgings in a very good tavern. During our ride in the dark, we saw a large number of fireflies, which abounded particularly near wet meadows. We had for several days past also seen very handsomely coloured butterflies of different kinds.

I passed the 27th of May in Lancaster, for three reasons: first, I felt the effects of my long journey, of the heat, and of want of rest; secondly, I did not wish to pass Sunday in Philadelphia, where it is very particularly tiresome; and thirdly, I wished to post up my journal, which had been necessarily neglected during the preceding days. I took advantage of the cool morning to view the place.

Lancaster is the chief city of Lancaster county, and contains about six thousand inhabitants. It is built on a hill; the streets cross each other at right angles, and are generally paved and supplied with side-walks, shaded by Italian poplars. The houses are principally of brick, though some are also quite massive; here and there a frame building may be seen. A square place stands in the middle of the city, in whose centre the court-house is erected. The market-houses are not far from this. The museum contains merely poor wax figures, some Indian curiosities, stuffed animals, shells, some fishes, and minerals. A tame gazelle, which had been taught several tricks, was also exhibited; it could cypher, distinguish different cards, knew names, &c. Some of the inhabitants visited me, among whom was a Mr. Voigt, of Leipsig, who conducted us about the place. Lancaster is said to produce the best rifles in the United States. I bought one for eleven dollars to take home with me, as a curiosity. Mr. Voigt took us to a public garden near the city, which was tastefully arranged, and where the inhabitants of the place enjoyed themselves in playing ten-pins, and in other innocent amusements. We went afterwards on the Baltimore road, over a roofed wooden bridge, which leads over Conestoga creek. This bridge resembles those in Ohio, though much lighter; it cannot last long. The arches in Ohio are formed of eight or ten planks placed over each other, and united by screws, so that the bridge seems to rest on springs, resembling those of carriages; whereas, here the arch consisted of a single crooked fir tree. In the evening I received a number of visits, among which I may mention one from a member of congress, Mr. Buchanan, whose speeches in congress are received with much applause, and a Mennonist, Mr. Witmer, who showed me a contrivance, invented by himself, to cool wine.

On the 28th of May we left Lancaster, at five o’clock, A. M. The turnpike was in a good state, and we advanced on an average five miles an hour, so that we reached Philadelphia before seven o’clock in the evening, after travelling sixty-four miles. Between Lancaster and Philadelphia, we passed through Sandersburg, Paradise, Sadsbury, Coastville, Downingstown, and Warre; between these there are yet a number of settlements and taverns. The streams are Conestoga creek, near which they are digging the navigable canal, Peegnea creek, two arms of the Brandywine, and last of all the Schuylkill at Philadelphia. Upon the whole, the country is not hilly; we had only to ascend Mine ridge, on which we rode for several miles.

The whole country is cultivated in a most excellent manner, and covered with handsome farms; many barns look like large churches. The fences were often supplied by dry stone walls, or live hedges. A well-built hospital stands not far from Lancaster, to which an avenue of Lombardy poplars leads, here much admired. The country about Brandywine is classic ground, on which much blood was shed during the revolution. We passed near to Valley Forge, where the great Washington was encamped with his corps, whilst the English held Philadelphia. The farther we proceeded, the more clearly we saw that we approached a large city, for the number of elegant country-seats increased, and people in handsome attire met us on foot, on horseback, and in carriages. In Philadelphia we again took lodgings at the Mansion-house.

Thus I was once more on well known ground, in beloved Philadelphia. During the few days which I could pass here, old acquaintances were renewed with pleasure, and new ones formed with new interest. At the same time I saw several things which had escaped me at my former visit. Mr. Huygens, who had hitherto been my companion, now left me, and returned to his friends at Washington.

I rode to the Deaf and Dumb Asylum, with my old friend Mr. Roberts Vaux, the philanthropic Quaker, and with Mr. Niederstetter, chargé d’affaires of the king of Prussia. I had before omitted to visit this establishment, as the pupils were just leaving their old temporary dwelling in the city, to move in their newly-built house. This house is large and massive. It consists of a principal building, which is reached by means of a portal, decorated with four doric columns; and of two wings behind it, one of which is inhabited by the boys, and the other by the girls. There were at that time eighty pupils in the institution, fifty maintained by the state of Pennsylvania, thirteen by their families, five by the state of New Jersey, and twelve by the institution itself. It has now subsisted for six years; at the beginning it was founded by voluntary contributions and subscriptions; the legislature of Pennsylvania afterwards gave eight thousand dollars, and the state annually pays one hundred and fifty dollars for every pupil which it has placed here. The direction of the institution consists of a president, four vice presidents, among which was Mr. Vaux, a treasurer, a secretary, and at this time, twenty-three directors. A principal teacher, Mr. L. Weld, four tutors, a matron, and two physicians preside over the house.

Mr. Weld had passed a long time at Hartford in Connecticut, and had learned the method of instruction in the deaf and dumb asylum at that place, which he practises here with great success. He was teaching one of the lower classes when we arrived. He dictated to the pupils something on subjects of natural history, which they wrote with great rapidity on large slates. We put several questions to them, which they answered with much sagacity. Mr. Niederstetter asked them if they could form any idea of music; one of the boys answered, he well knew that there were tones, and that several tones systematically combined made a sound, but what this was, and how all this was connected together, he could form no idea. In other rooms, other pupils were engaged in writing and cyphering. One of them had made much progress in crayon drawing, and was just working at a portrait of President Adams. The boys learn trades, several were weaving, others were making shoes, &c., the girls learn to sew and knit. The clothes, which the pupils wear in the house, are all made there. They have a common eating room, and each sex has separate sleeping rooms, where two sleep in one bed; besides, each wing contains a separate infirmary. Every where I saw the most exemplary cleanliness and order prevail; the pupils had a very healthy appearance.

I conversed with some of them in writing; one of them asked me, what was my favourite study, I answered mathematics. Upon this he wrote to me, that he was also pleased with this study, but found no opportunity of making great progress in it. In order to teach the pupils the principles of arithmetic, a machine is used similar to the Russian. A vegetable garden behind, and at the sides of the building, which was then preparing, was intended to serve also as a place of recreation for the pupils. I could not forbear making to Mr. Weld an especial expression of the great pleasure which this institution and his method of instruction gave me.

I saw the Academy of Fine Arts last autumn, but went there again, as the exhibition of paintings had been opened. This collection, however, consisted merely of portraits, and these were rather indifferent. In general, the fine arts, as I believe has already been mentioned, do not yet flourish in the United States to a great degree; perhaps this is to be attributed to the taste of the Americans, which they inherited from their English ancestors, and which does not appear to be very great for painting.⁶⁹ But I rather believe, and this idea president Jefferson gave me, that the little encouragement which the fine arts receive in this country is to be attributed to the equal division of property among the children, so that in large families an estate cannot be long kept together.

I saw also, in company with Messrs. Vaux and Niederstetter, the mint of the United States, which is established here. In the year 1793, when Philadelphia was still the seat of government of the United States, this mint was located in a newly-built private house, and it is as yet the only one in the United States. The processes in this mint are very simple, and but few improvements are yet adapted, which so greatly distinguish the mints of London and Milan. They were doing but little when we came; we saw nothing but the stretching of the bars of silver between cylinders, like those in the rolling mills at Pittsburgh, and the stamping of the pieces, which was done by means of a contrivance similar to that by which rivet-holes are made in the iron plates for steam-engine boilers. We saw, moreover, the cutting of half dollar pieces, which is done by means of a stamp, worked by two men. A third stands by to place the uncoined pieces in a box, which are then brought under the stamp by a particular contrivance. After they are coined, they fall by means of this contrivance into a box which stands below. Since 1803, no larger silver coins are made than half dollars, as the dollars were immediately bought up and exported to China for trade, because the merchants there will take no smaller coins than dollars. We saw also a collection of medals stamped here, some of which, particularly those which were struck after naval victories, are very well finished. One side represents the bust of the naval hero in whose honour the medal was struck, and the reverse represents the action itself. A golden medal was struck after the victory of General Jackson at New Orleans, one side exhibiting the bust of the general, and the reverse a figure representing the United States pointing to the Muse of History, writing on a shield the name of New Orleans. The medal which the Agricultural Society bestows at the annual cattle show, is also handsome. It is to be regretted, that all the medals, which were struck before president Monroe’s administration, are missing in this collection. The mint itself is very small, and its boundaries are still more limited by a twelve horse-power steam-engine. No application, however, is made to congress for a larger and better building, as it is feared that congress might then propose to remove the whole establishment of the mint to Washington.

We visited the Episcopalian church yard, in which lies Dr. Franklin’s grave, who died in the same year, and rests in the same grave with his wife. It is near the wall, and covered with a large white marble slab, with the following inscription: —

I confess these simple words appear to me more eloquent and noble, and spoke to me in a more affecting manner, than any encomiastic epitaph could have done. The celebrated Professor Rush, father of the present secretary of the treasury, is also buried here. This grave-yard, like the rest in Philadelphia, is in the midst of the city, an evil of which much is said, but which it would be difficult to remedy.

Another visit was made to Peale’s Museum. I found, however, nothing new, except a terrible rattlesnake, which was alive, and with two smaller harmless snakes, formed an extremely ugly ball in a glass case. Its rattles could not be exactly seen, as they were covered by its flat and broad body. The body is full of scales, and the head uncommonly broad, in comparison with the head of other snakes. It was almost stiff, and only moved the head when any one approached too closely. It had handsome bright black eyes, and there was a quite small triangular aperture in the upper lip, through which its long, black, forked tongue was projected, when irritated. I could not make it open its mouth to see its teeth. They told me that it was fed with mice, which it first bit, and after they had died in convulsions, swallowed. Among the many gentlemen who paid me visits, I mention only Mr. Autenrieth, of Lehigh county, as he gave me much interesting information concerning the coal mines on the Lehigh, and at Mauch Chunk, which I intended to visit in a few days. But I met with a very agreeable surprise in the appearance of the excellent General Bernard; this worthy officer, whose acquaintance forms one of my most pleasing recollections of the United States, was to pass but two days in Philadelphia, in order to advise with a canal commission. General Bernard is one of the few meritorious men, of whom one hears nobody speak otherwise than well; and if he had, in an incomprehensible manner, any enemies, his amiable character would at the first meeting change them into friends.