Kitabı oku: «Entertaining at Home»

Introduction

Friends, family, good food, good times-this is what entertaining is all about. It can be as relaxed as flopping down on the sofa with a few friends to share nibbles and drinks, or as formal as getting out your best china and ironing your tablecloth for a three-course meal. How you choose to share your time and your cooking creations with your loved ones is entirely up to you. What each kind of gathering has in common, however, is a happy, welcoming atmosphere, and the main ingredient for that is you.

The kind of entertaining my family tends to do at home is most often spontaneous and casual. Maybe there’s a big pot of cassoulet bubbling away gently in the oven and we’ll realise there’s enough to share, so after a phone call or two we find ourselves with several hungry friends arriving at the door with bottles in hand. But there are also times when we’ll have a larger gathering or a particularly special evening when we want to push the boat out and make more of an effort with both the food and the table decorations.

In this book I hope to give you the inspiration and tools you will need to entertain for any gathering, whether relaxed and intimate or a great big bash, while actually getting to enjoy yourself as well. It doesn’t matter if you’re a seasoned cook or a complete novice in the kitchen; I’ve tried to give you achievable recipes that take the mystery and complication out of cooking for a special occasion. And you’ll find many of the recipes easy enough to cook to make any meal a special occasion.

Your guests

Whatever sort of entertaining you are doing, do let your friends know what kind of party it is, whether a casual plate-in-your-hand-type supper, a stand-around evening of cocktails and canapés, or a more chi-chi dressy affair. There’s nothing worse than turning up in jeans only to find that everyone else is in a little black number.

Be sure to always ask about food allergies or other dietary requirements. It’s often easier to make the same food for everyone, so don’t plan your food until you know what your limitations are. Of course, if your plans are to have a barbecue or a big roast, you may need to prepare something special for your vegetarian guests, but for the most part, simple allergies shouldn’t be such a problem that everyone has to have a limited menu. There are so many options-it’s not as scary as you think.

If you’re planning a very special occasion where you’re either cooking a more elaborate meal or you have a large crowd, you may wish to send out proper invitations with an RSVP so that you know exactly how many you’re cooking for before you do your shopping.

On the day of your party, think about having nibbles such as nuts or canapés ready to tide everyone over until all your guests have arrived-or to keep them fed if things are running late in the kitchen!

Your home

If you are doing more grown up, or ‘formal’ entertaining, take the time to think about atmosphere and how to create a welcoming setting so your guests feel you’ve made a little extra effort to make them feel special and relaxed. Little touches such as candles or fairy lights rather than harsh lighting from above can really help set the scene. Besides, who (or indeed what room) doesn’t look better in the soft glow of candlelight?

Flowers make any home look more dressed up, but that doesn’t necessarily mean investing in bouquets from the florist. Even just some little vases or jars of hand-picked flowers from your garden add a thoughtful touch. And you don’t need to limit them to the table-put them in the kitchen, living room, even the bathroom.

Your table

If you’re having a larger group of people and are feeling creative (and have the time), you may even wish to make table decorations and/or place settings for each of your guests. It also means you can control who sits next to who! It’s great fun to make name tags and people love taking them home. Be as creative as you wish. Below are some of my favourite table-decorating ideas:

* Everyone loves place cards! Try old-fashioned packing labels with the guest’s name written on and tied around a napkin or the base of a wine glass, or even pierced through onto a satay stick. Or if you’re feeling ambitious, make cookies or biscuits for each guest with their name written in icing or chocolate.

* If you don’t have napkin rings, just tie a pretty piece of ribbon around your napkins, perhaps in different colours for each napkin. To jazz it up further, you can tie on fresh rosemary and/or bread sticks.

* For a really special event, place mini wrapped presents on each place, tied up with twine or ribbon and with a name tag.

* For a seaside theme try candles in oyster or scallop shells or sand in the bottom of glass candle holders or pretty glass jars with tea lights; pebbles, slate or driftwood pieces with guest’s names in chalk; shells on the table.

* For a holiday splash, place Christmas baubles in little glasses or shallow tumblers around the table; spray some holly lightly with glitter, place small branches in a flower vase with baubles hanging off (place sand in the bottom to keep the branches in place). You can write guests’ names on bay, holly or ivy leaves with gold or silver pen.

* At Easter, you can try a similar trick-from small branches hang painted eggs. You can also spray the branches silver or gold. You could even do a mini version with quail’s eggs! Place mini pastel-coloured Easter eggs or little chicks around the table.

* In autumn, place pumpkins and squashes in groups on the table and/or outside the front door.

* For national holidays, place little flags at each setting or down the centre of the table.

* For your floral arrangements, try not to have one enormous bouquet in the middle of your table. Instead, make smaller arrangements in lots of small glass holders of different sizes so your guests can see over them. Or try small terracotta pots of herbs or little flowering plants, or put miniature bulbs, such as bluebells or narcissus, in a pot or glass vase for a temporary display. Avoid overly scented flowers, which may overpower your food.

SETTING THE TABLE

Not everyone has an extensive range of cutlery to set a formal place setting, so don’t panic about doing this ‘properly’. But I often do get asked, ‘Where should the water glass go?’ or ‘Where should I put a side plate?’, so if you want to set a fancy table, here is the general thinking on how your place setting should look:

What to serve?

Choosing your menu is the first important step to a good party. More often than not in planning what you serve, seasonality is the key. But menu planning is also about choosing dishes that will both complement each other and be enjoyable to eat together. So avoid a repetition of ingredients from course to course, as well as ensuring you have different colours and textures of food throughout. Ensure, too, that each of the elements when added up are not too heavy.

As before, be sure to get any dietary restrictions from your guests well in advance of your planning. Don’t feel you need to plan three big fancy dishes-one show stopper will be enough to create a memorable meal if you are time-starved but still want to impress. Your other courses (should you choose to serve them) can then be less complicated. You also don’t need to serve fancy dishes just because you’re having guests-simple food beautifully presented in your warm loving home can have just as much of an impact, if not more so.

At the end of each chapter I have grouped together my favourite recipe combinations or advice for preparation to make well-balanced menus in order to help simplify your planning.

PREPARING AHEAD

Do remember that entertaining should be about you having a good time too, so the more prepared you are, the easier and more fun it will be. Much to my husband’s complete puzzlement, I find list-making and even an ‘order of work’ (writing out in what order and when things should be prepared and cooked) a great help.

For stress-free entertaining, choose your menu well in advance rather than on the day or the day before. Shopping ahead is always going to make things easier! Be sure to include some recipes that can be prepared in advance so you can get ahead and not be stuck at the stove while your friends are all having a great time without you. If you are making something quite ambitious for a main course, then make sure your starter or dessert is easier to prepare. I have included lots of recipes for the time-poor, sweet-toothed among you.

It sounds so obvious, but write down exactly what you need, including any suggested cookware sizes, then check it very carefully so you can be certain you have everything you need once you get to the till.

On the day itself, set plenty of time aside to get yourself ready. Even if you’re still putting things in the oven when your guests arrive, you want to feel ready to entertain. Easier said than done sometimes, but this is where working out the timings in advance will come in handy.

Also don’t forget to place the basics on the table ahead of your guests arriving, like bread and butter or olive oil, salt and pepper, or any sauces you may need. You don’t want to have to keep jumping up and running to the kitchen.

BUDGET

One very important point to make is that entertaining does not have to be costly. Clever, seasonal shopping, and even a bit of foraging if you have the time and the resource (even if just for flowers), can lead to a great get-together. Why not invite your friends over for a relaxed casserole, or ask them to each bring a dish? Either tell people what you would like them to bring (a salad, a dessert) or let them bring what they want for a ‘pot-luck’ party-though this may not be everyone’s idea of a balanced meal! You can give them a general idea of what you want them to bring (a starter or a main, for example), so you don’t end up with ten desserts and no dinner…

If you want to have a more formal meal on a budget, think about simple but delicious stews, pasta or vegetarian dishes. Entertaining doesn’t have to be fancy-but just a little thought, such as laying the table beforehand, can make it feel special. If you’re having a special celebration but don’t want to splurge on Champagne, try less expensive, but still delicious, Prosecco or Cava. Or make it go further by making Champagne cocktails such as buck’s fizz or Bellinis.

You also needn’t feel pressure to serve a lavish three-course meal-one lovely main and a dessert is just as special.

Drinks

Not everyone is a wine expert. In fact, most people can feel a little intimidated when it comes to serving the ‘right’ wine with their meals. The easiest way to get around the stress of what to serve is to go to a good wine merchant and ask them to suggest not only what to serve with your meal, but how much to serve per person-which is, of course, entirely subjective, but the experts will take this into account! If you’re planning a large party, wine merchants also often offer discounts on multiple bottles, so don’t be afraid to ask what deals they have going for bulk purchases. For bigger parties, they may also supply returnable wine or champagne glasses free of charge. Just ask!

If you choose to serve cocktails, try to limit these to one or two, unless you really enjoy acting as bartender and/or have a big budget.

Be sure to have soft options for those who don’t drink alcohol. Even if you just posh-up a big jug of ice water by adding lemon or lime, or mint-or even coriander.

Keeping calm …

Don’t be afraid to ask for help! Nobody expects you to be a superhero, so if you need help chopping, recruit a friend or family member. If you’re having a big party, enlist a few people to be on standby to pass things around and pick things up as the evening progresses. You don’t have to do it all single-handedly.

One handy but easily forgotten tip when preparing is to clean as you go along so that your guests don’t arrive to a mess and so you have an easier clean-up afterwards. Chuck out packaging, put things in the dishwasher and wash-up bowls or utensils. It’ll also help keep your head clear if your space is as clutter-free as possible.

Try to remember that part of the fun of entertaining is the preparation itself. So crank up the music, pour yourself a glass, and go for it! Remember, everyone will appreciate your hard work and probably only you will notice if something isn’t quite as you expected. It doesn’t have to be perfect, it’s all about the having fun and sharing great times with those you love. Be prepared to have a few mishaps and you’ll have a much better time!

I hope this book helps you create many memorable meals. Above all, enjoy!

BRUNCHES AND LUNCHES

Getting together with friends and family doesn’t always mean ‘dinner’. You can have just as special a meal before the sun goes down. Birthdays, Mother’s Day, or just getting together with the girls are reason enough to plan a nice meal together. Brunch is one of my favourite meals- it allows you to put a little extra something into what is essentially a late breakfast, and it means you can have a sneaky glass of something fizzy or a Bloody Mary before noon! Here you’ll find many ideas for easy and special daytime meals.

BRUNCH

Baked eggs with creamy kale

This is delicious for brunch. If you can’t get kale, use spinach. I love to use the Irish farmhouse cheese Glebe Brethan for its delicious flavour and melting texture, but you can use Gruyère instead.

SERVES 6 VEGETARIAN

25g (1oz) butter

900g (2lb) kale with stalks removed before weighing

Salt and ground black pepper

350ml (12fl oz) single or regular cream

Pinch of freshly grated nutmeg

6 eggs

350g (12oz) Glebe Brethan or Gruyère cheese, grated

Six 100ml (3½ fl oz) ramekins or ovenproof dishes

1 Preheat the oven to 180°C (350°F), Gas mark 4.

2 Add the butter to a large wide frying pan and place over a medium heat. Add the kale and season with salt and pepper. As soon as the kale wilts and becomes tender, add the cream and nutmeg, then allow to bubble for 3–5 minutes until thickened.

3 Divide the kale between the ramekins or dishes, placing it around the inside of each dish and leaving a small well in the centre.

4 Break one egg into each dish and sprinkle the grated cheese over the top. Bake in the oven for 8–10 minutes or until golden on top and bubbling around the edges. Scatter over a little pepper and serve immediately with a little toast on the side.

Wild mushrooms on toast with chive hollandaise

I like to use chanterelles or oyster mushrooms for this recipe. Chanterelles are one of my favourite mushrooms. They have a huge amount of flavour and their colour is like liquid gold. Here they transform what is essentially just mushrooms on toast into a luxurious breakfast treat.

SERVES 6 VEGETARIAN

3 generous handful of wild mushrooms

50g (2oz) butter, plus extra for spreading

6 slices of bread

100ml (3½fl oz) chive hollandaise (see below)

For the chive hollandaise

2 egg yolks

100g (4oz) butter, diced

Squeeze of lemon juice

1–2 tbsp chopped chives

Salt and ground black pepper

1 First make the hollandaise sauce following the instructions on page 159, stirring the chopped chives into the cooked sauce just before seasoning,

2 Next carefully clean the mushrooms. The best way to do this is to brush off any soil or debris with a pastry brush. Avoid washing them as this will make them soggy during cooking.

3 Place a large frying pan on a high heat and allow it to get quite hot. Add the butter and when it has melted and starts to foam, tip in the mushrooms. Season with salt and pepper and cook for 3–5 minutes, tossing regularly.

4 Meanwhile, toast the bread and spread with butter.

5 When the mushrooms are cooked, taste for seasoning then arrange on top of the hot buttered toast, drizzle with the chive hollandaise and serve immediately.

Citrus honeyed fruit

The sweet-sour combination of lime juice and honey is a lovely way to enhance the flavours of some fruit. I like to add chopped mint for a fresh taste. This is ideal for serving at breakfast.

SERVES 6 VEGETARIAN

Juice of 1–2 limes

1–2 tbsp runny honey

2–3 tsp chopped mint (optional)

750g (1lb 10oz) mixed fruit, such as melon, bananas, raspberries, pineapple

1 In a large bowl, mix together the lime juice, honey and mint (if using). Peel any of the larger fruit (if necessary) and cut into bite-sized pieces. Add all the fruit to the bowl and stir to cover.

2 Leave to macerate for 10–15 minutes before serving.

Sweetcorn fritters with mango and avocado salsa

These gorgeous light fritters make a delicious brunch when eaten with the avocado and mango salsa, but they can be served on their own as a starter. You’ll need a good ripe avocado and mango for the salsa, which shouldn’t be made more than half an hour to an hour in advance or the avocado will discolour.

MAKES 15–20 FRITTERS SERVES 4–6 VEGETARIAN

2 eggs, separated

3 tbsp milk

50g (2oz) plain flour

1 tsp baking powder

½ tsp salt

200g (7oz) tinned or frozen and defrosted sweetcorn (drained weight)

4–6 tbsp olive oil

For the mango and avocado salsa

1 avocado

1 small or ½ medium-large mango

2 spring onions

1 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil

2 tbsp roughly chopped coriander

Squeeze of lemon juice

Salt and ground black pepper

1 First make the salsa. Peel the avocado and mango, remove their stones and cut the flesh into 1 cm (½ in cubes). Trim and finely slice the spring onions.

2 Put all the salsa ingredients into a large bowl, gently mix together and season to taste with salt and pepper, then set aside.

3 Place the egg yolks in another bowl and mix together with the milk. Sift in the flour, baking powder and salt. Mix together until smooth then stir in the sweetcorn.

4 In a separate bowl, whisk together the egg whites until they form stiff peaks, then carefully fold into the corn mixture.

5 Place a frying pan on a medium heat and add 3 tablespoons of olive oil. (If using a large frying pan, you may need to add more oil-it should completely cover the base of the pan.) When the oil is quite hot, add tablespoon-sized blobs of the mixture, very lightly flattening these with the back of the spoon if they are too lumpy. Cook for 30 seconds–1 minute or until golden and crusty underneath, then, using a fish slice or palette knife, gently turn over and cook for a further minute or so on the other side. They are cooked when they are golden in colour and have a light spring to the touch in the centre.

6 Remove from the pan and drain on kitchen paper. Repeat with the rest of the mixture. (You can do several at once, but be careful not to overload the pan or they will stick together. You will need to add more oil for each new batch.) Serve as soon as possible; kept warm in a baking tray in a low oven where they can sit for about 30 minutes, though they are best eaten straight from the pan!

Hot buttered oysters on toast

For a little bit of decadence these make a fabulous starter or a light meal.

SERVES 6

18 oysters (3 per person)

50g (2oz) butter, plus extra for spreading

6 slices of bread

1 tbsp lemon juice

Salt (optional) and ground black pepper

1 Open the oysters one by one. Place an oyster on a tea towel, flat side up. Wrap your non-cutting hand in another cloth so you won’t get cut if the knife slips. Take an oyster knife, look for a chink in the shell at the narrow, hinged end, then insert the blade and, applying quite a bit of force, press, turn and lever upwards.

2 Put the opened oysters into a sieve set over a bowl and cut away the flesh from the shells. Discard the shells or wash them and use as salt and pepper holders. Tip the juices into a heavy-based frying pan, then, on a high heat, bring the juices to the boil. When they are boiling, whisk in the butter.

3 Add the oysters and, still on a high heat, toss for 1 minute or until the oysters are warmed through and have firmed up slightly and the sauce slightly reduced.

4 Meanwhile, toast the bread and butter it, and place on plates.

5 Just before serving, add the lemon juice and taste — it probably won’t need any salt. Place the oysters on the buttered toast, pour over the juices, add a grinding of black pepper and serve.

Lazy weekend Bloody Mary

This refreshing tipple is strictly for Sunday mornings. Celery salt isn’t essential, but it goes to perfection, so do get hold some if you can.

SERVES 10

50ml (2fl oz) Worcestershire sauce

1 tsp Tabasco sauce

1 tsp celery salt (optional)

5 tbsp lemon juice

1 tsp grated horseradish

1 tsp peeled and finely chopped shallot

1.8 litres (3 pints) tomato juice

2 tbsp dry sherry

300ml (½ pint) vodka

10 small sticks of celery, to serve

1 Whiz all the ingredients in a blender, then strain the mixture through a fine sieve. Serve in glasses over ice with a stick of celery.

Isaac’s frittata

A frittata is a thick and almost endlessly versatile Italian omelette. It can be flavoured with just herbs and cheese or almost a whole fried breakfast!

SERVES 4–6 VEGETARIAN

(with non-vegetarian variations)

8 eggs

50ml (2fl oz) milk

Salt and ground black pepper

2 tbsp chopped chives or parsley

110g (4oz) Gruyère cheese, grated

25g (1oz) butter

25cm (10in) diameter ovenproof frying pan

1 Preheat the grill on a medium setting.

2 Break the eggs into a bowl and whisk together with the milk, seasoning with salt and pepper. Next gently mix in the herbs and grated cheese.

3 Place a large non-stick frying pan on a low-medium heat. Add the butter and when it has melted and starts to foam, add the egg mixture to the warm pan. Using a wooden spoon, scrape the cooked mixture from the bottom, from the outside in, filling its space with liquid egg by gently tilting the pan. Do this 5–6 times, then allow the mixture to cook for a further 2–3 minutes or until the bottom of the frittata is golden — you can tell this by lifting it slightly up at the edge using a palette knife or fish slice.

4 Take the pan off the heat and place under the grill, making sure that you leave a gap of a few centimetres between the frittata and the grill element. Continue cooking for a few minutes until the mixture has fluffed up nicely and is beginning to turn golden brown on top, by which stage the frittata will have cooked through to the centre.

5 Using a palette knife or fish slice, loosen the edges and slide onto a plate. Serve immediately or allow to cool to room temperature.

VARIATIONS

Make the recipe as above, adding the following to the basic egg mixture just before cooking:

Breakfast frittata: 150g (5oz) sliced mushrooms, fried in a little butter and seasoned with salt and pepper, and 10 rashers of streaky bacon, cut into 1cm (½in) pieces and fried until crispy.

Frittata ranchera: 150g (5oz) peeled and chopped onion, sweated in a little sunflower oil or butter, 4 small tomatoes cut into 5mm (¼in) dice, 1 tablespoon of finely chopped and deseeded red chilli (or more to taste) and 2 tablespoons of chopped coriander.

LUNCH

Spinach soup with rosemary oil

The aromatic flavour of rosemary, drizzled as an oil over this soup, works to perfection with spinach. Instead of making the rosemary oil, you could add 1 tablespoon of chopped rosemary leaves to the soup just before blending, or a pinch of freshly ground nutmeg.

SERVES 6 VEGETARIAN

For the rosemary oil

1 sprig of rosemary, broken in half

50ml (2fl oz) olive oil

For the spinach soup

15g (½oz) butter

110g (4oz) peeled and chopped onions

150g (5oz) peeled and chopped potatoes

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

600ml (1 pint) vegetable stock

600ml (1 pint) milk

275g (10oz) spinach (any large stalks removed before weighing), chopped

1 Put the rosemary in a small saucepan with the olive oil and heat gently on a low heat until tepid. Remove the pan from the heat and let the rosemary infuse for 10 minutes. Strain the oil through a sieve into a jug.

2 For the soup, melt the butter in a large saucepan, add the onions and potatoes, season with salt and pepper, cover with a lid and cook on a very low heat for 10 minutes, stirring every now and again.

3 Meanwhile, pour the stock and milk into another saucepan, bring to the boil and add to the vegetables. Bring the mixture back up to the boil, then tip in the spinach and cook, uncovered, over a high heat for 1–2 minutes or until the spinach is just cooked.

4 To preserve the fresh flavour, blend the soup straight away, in a blender or using a hand-held blender. Serve in individual bowls with a drizzle of rosemary oil over the top.

Skirt steak with spicy potatoes

A lunchtime steak is not for the faint hearted, so this is one to save for the weekend. Skirt steak is wonderfully tender and has a great flavour, though it needs to be cooked very quickly or it can overcook and toughen.

SERVES 6

750g (1lb 10oz) potatoes (unpeeled if small), cut into 1–2cm (½–¾in) dice

Salt and ground black pepper

75ml (3fl oz) olive oil

4 cloves of garlic, peeled and crushed or finely grated

1–2 red chillies, deseeded and finely diced

2 tbsp cumin seeds, toasted and ground (see tip below)

6 generous tbsp chopped coriander or parsley

6 thin skirt steaks (each weighing about 110g/4oz)

1 Place a saucepan of water on a high heat, add 1 teaspoon of salt and bring to the boil. Add the potatoes and cook for 3–5 minutes or until they have slightly softened, then drain thoroughly before tipping onto kitchen paper to dry completely.

2 Set a large frying pan on a high heat, pour in 50ml (2fl oz) of the olive oil and, when hot, add the potatoes and cook, tossing frequently, for 3 minutes. Add the garlic, chillies and cumin and cook for a further 3–5 minutes or until the potatoes are golden and crispy, then tip in the chopped herbs.

3 While the potatoes are cooking, fry the steaks. Place a separate frying pan (cast iron if possible) on a high heat and allow it to get very hot. Season the steaks on both sides with salt and pepper, add the remaining oil to the pan and cook the steaks for about 1 minute on each side. (If you overcook them, they will toughen.)

4 Remove the steaks from the pan and serve straight away (they can be kept warm in a low oven for 5–10 minutes, if needed) with the sautéed potatoes on the side.

RACHEL’S TIP

To toast and grind nuts or seeds, place the nuts or seeds in a frying pan on a high heat and cook, tossing frequently, for about 1 minute or until the nuts/seeds are browned. They toast very quickly, so take care not to burn them. To grind them into a powder, use a pestle and mortar, a coffee grinder dedicated to the purpose, or place the nuts or seeds in a plastic bag and use a rolling pin to crush them.