Kitabı oku: «Home Cooking»

Breakfast
Homemade yoghurt
MAKES ABOUT 425ML (15FL OZ) · VEGETARIAN

Making your own yoghurt is very satisfying as well as being a good way to encourage children to eat it, as they can add their own flavours. It is crucial to use sugar-free yoghurt for the recipe to work. It is also important that the milk and yoghurt mixture stays in a warm, draught-free place like an airing cupboard or beside an Aga or radiator. Pouring into a flask will also help if you have one. Remember to keep 1 teaspoon of the yoghurt back to make the next batch!

1 litre (1¾ pints) whole milk

25g (1oz) skimmed milk powder

1 tsp natural probiotic yoghurt

1 Pour the milk into a large, heavy-based or cast-iron saucepan on a gentle heat. As the milk is beginning to warm up, add the milk powder, stirring to dissolve. Heat the milk until it reads 90°C (194°F) on a cooking thermometer (if judging by eye, the milk will be sweet smelling and just coming to the boil — steaming heavily and frothing around the edges).

2 Remove from the heat and leave to stand for about 15 minutes to cool until it reads 40°C (104°F) on the thermometer (or the milk has stopped steaming and feels just tepid when you dip your finger in and leave it there for a few seconds).

3 Stir in the yoghurt and cover with a double layer of foil. Wrap with a tea towel and leave in a warm place (or in a flask) until the mixture thickens, which will take 4–5 hours. Remove the towel, transfer to a bowl, cover and place in the fridge to cool overnight.

Variations

Apple and sweet geranium yoghurt: Cook 600g (1⅓lb) (about 2) peeled, cored and roughly chopped cooking apples with 50g (2oz) caster or granulated sugar, 1 tablespoon of water and 2 sweet geranium (or mint) leaves for 6–8 minutes until soft. Leave to cool completely and remove the leaves before stirring into the set yoghurt.

Raspberry yoghurt: Make a raspberry coulis (see page 337) and stir into or drizzle over the yoghurt to serve.

Orange curd yoghurt: Ripple a spoonful of orange curd (see page 336) through the yoghurt.

Natural yoghurt with fresh fruits: Serve the yoghurt with one of the fresh fruit salads on page 14.

Natural yoghurt with poached fruits: Serve the yoghurt with some poached fruits (dried or fresh, see pages 44 and 212) or chop them up and stir them into the yoghurt.

Porridge
SERVES 2 · VEGETARIAN

My dad always used to make us eat porridge before going to school, and now I appreciate why. Oats are a great slow-release carbohydrate and so porridge makes a good, hearty breakfast. It can be slightly sinful, depending on what you serve it with, but if you choose healthy toppings it’s a lot more healthy and nutritious than many breakfast cereals.

100g (3½oz) porridge oats

Pinch of salt (optional)

225ml (8fl oz) milk (optional)

1 Place the oats in a medium saucepan, add a pinch of salt (if you wish) and pour over 500ml (18fl oz) water, or a mixture of water and milk.

2 Cook on a low—medium heat, stirring regularly, for 7–10 minutes or until the oats are tender and the porridge creamy and thick. (Feel free to add more liquid if you prefer a thinner consistency.)

3 Serve in warm bowls and make more interesting with one of the tasty additions suggested below.

Additions

* Sweeten with soft brown sugar, honey or maple or golden syrup.

* Add a dash of cream or milk, or drizzle over a little natural yoghurt.

* Try adding dried fruit such as raisins, sultanas, apricots or prunes before cooking the oats.

* Top your porridge with your favourite nuts or seeds for a crunchier texture.

* Try flavouring your porridge with added ground cinnamon, cardamom or nutmeg, either during or after cooking.

* For a serious weekend brunch for grown-ups, you could even go so far as to add a splash of whiskey and cream over your porridge … now that is pure indulgence.

Rachel’s tip

If using pinhead oatmeal, it needs to be soaked overnight in water and then cooked as above, but it may take about 20 minutes.

Crunchy granola
MAKES ABOUT 1.5KG (3LB 5OZ) · VEGETARIAN

A bowl of granola, bursting with different textures and flavours, is a fantastic way to start the day. Serve it either with milk or natural yoghurt and feel free to mix and match the ingredients; you could use rye or barley flakes instead of some of the oat flakes, for instance, or add chocolate chips or dried cranberries. Whatever takes your fancy.

125g (4½oz) butter

150ml (5fl oz) honey

1 tsp vanilla extract

500g (1lb 2oz) rolled oats

50g (2oz) pecan nuts, roughly chopped

150g (5oz) hazelnuts, roughly chopped

75g (3oz) pumpkin seeds

75g (3oz) sunflower seeds

50g (2oz) golden linseeds

100g (3½oz) desiccated coconut

300g (11oz) mixed dried fruit, such as dates, figs, apricots, raisins or sultanas, the larger fruit chopped

1 Preheat the oven to 170°C (325°F), Gas mark 3.

2 Place the butter, honey and vanilla extract in a small saucepan on a low heat and gently melt together. Mix the oats, nuts, seeds and desiccated coconut together in a large bowl. Pour over the melted butter and honey mixture and stir really well to ensure all the dry ingredients are evenly coated.

3 Divide the mixture between two large baking trays and spread in an even layer. Bake in the oven for 20–25 minutes, tossing every 5 minutes, until golden brown. Remove from the oven and leave to cool on the trays, stirring every now and then. (If you transfer it into a deep bowl at this stage, while it is still warm, it will go soggy.)

4 Once completely cool, transfer to a large bowl and stir in your choice of dried fruits. Pour into an airtight container and store at room temperature for up to two months.

Fresh fruit salads

EACH RECIPE SERVES 2 · VEGETARIAN

There’s nothing like a fresh fruit salad to make you feel healthy and invigorated. Eat for breakfast or serve as a starter, simple snack or dessert, either on its own or with natural yoghurt (see page 10 for making your own). First make the fruit juice dressing, then mix with your choice of fruit salad.

Fruit juice dressing

1 tbsp freshly squeezed orange juice

1 tbsp freshly squeezed lemon juice

1 tsp caster sugar or runny honey

2 tbsp finely chopped mint (optional)

Mix the orange juice and lemon juice together in a bowl and stir in the sugar or honey to dissolve. Pour this over your choice of fruit salad below (adding finely chopped mint, if you wish). Stir to combine and serve immediately.

Pink grapefruit and pomegranate

2 pink grapefruit, peeled and segmented Seeds from ½ pomegranate

Mix the pink grapefruit segments and pomegranate seeds together. Stir in the dressing (see above) and serve.

Grape, melon and grapefruit

110g (4oz) seedless red or green grapes (or a mixture), halved

250g (9oz) peeled and deseeded melon, diced

1 grapefruit, peeled and segmented

1 tbsp very finely chopped celery (optional)

Mix the red or green grapes with the melon, grapefruit and celery (if using). Stir in the dressing (see left) and serve.

Tropical fruit mix

1 large orange, peeled and segmented

200g (7oz) peeled and stoned mango, roughly chopped

125g (4½oz) peeled and cored pineapple, roughly chopped

110g (4oz) peeled and deseeded papaya, diced

Seeds and pulp from 1 large passion fruit

Mix the orange, mango, pineapple and diced papaya with the passion fruit. Stir in the dressing (see above left) and serve.

American buttermilk pancakes
MAKES ABOUT 12 PANCAKES · VEGETARIAN

My children and I love making these thick and spongy pancakes (see picture on page 18). The basic recipe is delicious, but the pancakes also taste great with other ingredients added to the batter to flavour them (see the variations opposite). Once cooked and cooled, the pancakes can be kept in the fridge and then warmed through for a few minutes in a hot oven. Spread with a little butter and jam or apple jelly or try one of the toppings suggested below.

150g (5oz) plain flour

2 tsp baking powder

¼ tsp bicarbonate of soda

50g (2oz) caster sugar

2 eggs

150ml (5fl oz) buttermilk or soured milk (see tip on page 24)

25g (1oz) butter, melted and cooled

Sunflower oil, for frying

Icing sugar, for dusting

1 Sift the flour, baking powder and bicarbonate of soda into a large bowl, then stir in the sugar. Whisk the eggs, buttermilk or soured milk and melted butter together in another bowl, then pour into the dry ingredients, whisking all the time until you have a smooth batter. The batter is now ready to use or may be stored in the fridge overnight.

2 When you are ready to cook the pancakes, fold your chosen flavouring (if using — see opposite) into the batter. Place a large frying pan on a medium heat and oil it very lightly (I usually pour the oil onto a piece of kitchen paper and rub it on). Working in batches, drop large spoonfuls (about 50ml/2fl oz) of the pancake batter into the pan, spacing them apart to allow for spreading while cooking.

3 Cook on one side for 1–2 minutes until bubbles appear on the upper surface, then flip over with a fish slice or palette knife and cook on the other side for a further 1–2 minutes until golden brown on both sides. Repeat with any remaining mixture, keeping any cooked pancakes warm in a low oven (cover with foil) as you go.

4 Serve dredged with icing sugar and your choice of toppings from below.

Toppings

* Crème fraîche or Greek or natural yoghurt

* Slices of mango or strawberry, or pomegranate seeds

* Honey or maple or golden syrup

* Chopped nuts, such as pecans, hazelnuts or almonds

* Pumpkin or sunflower seeds

* Top with banana slices and toffee sauce (see page 337)

Variations

Choose one of the following to fold into the batter once it’s made:

Banana pancakes: 1 large or 1½ small—medium bananas, mashed (giving 150g/5oz mashed weight)

Berry pancakes: 75g (3oz) fresh or frozen (and defrosted) berries of your choice

Chocolate chip pancakes: 75g (3oz) chocolate chips (dark or milk chocolate)

Dried fruit pancakes: 75g (3oz) dried fruit such as raisins, sultanas, apricots or cranberries (chopped if large)

Cinnamon pancakes: 1½ tsp ground cinnamon

Fresh apple muesli
SERVES 2 · VEGETARIAN

This delicious wet muesli is so easy to assemble and more nutritious than shop-bought dried muesli. You could use other fruit instead of apples — whatever is to hand.

4 tbsp oat flakes

2 eating apples

1 tsp honey

1 tbsp single or regular cream (optional)

1 Measure 3 tablespoons of water into a bowl and sprinkle in the oats. Leave for a few minutes to soak.

2 In the meantime, coarsely grate the apples with the skin still on and avoiding the core. Stir into the softened oats, along with the honey. Taste, adding a little more honey to sweeten, if necessary. Spoon into bowls and serve immediately, drizzled with cream, if you wish.

Variations

Apple and cinnamon muesli: Stir a pinch of cinnamon into the water before adding the oats.

Raspberry and orange muesli: Substitute the apples with 50g (2oz) crushed raspberries and stir into the oats with the finely grated zest of 1 small orange.

Apple, blackberry and pecan nut muesli: In addition to the apple, stir 25g (1oz) blackberries into the oats with 2 teaspoons of finely chopped pecan nuts.

Waffles
MAKES 16–20 WAFFLES · VEGETARIAN
(WITH NON-VEGETARIAN VARIATIONS)

Waffles are a perfect weekend breakfast, but they can make an excellent snack at any time of day. They go well with so many different toppings, sweet or savoury. I’ve listed some of my favourites below.

400g (14oz) plain flour

2 tsp baking powder

2 tsp salt

100g (3½oz) caster sugar

4 eggs

200g (7oz) butter, melted and cooled

600ml (1 pint) milk

Icing sugar, for dusting (optional)

1 Sift the flour and baking powder into a large bowl. Add the salt and sugar and mix well together. Whisk the eggs in another bowl, then stir in the melted butter and milk. Pour the wet ingredients into the centre of the dry ingredients, whisking all the time until you have a smooth batter.

2 Heat the waffle machine. Using a ladle, pour some batter into the machine — don’t fill it too full. Close the lid and cook for 4–5 minutes or following the manufacturer’s instructions, or until the waffles are golden brown and cooked through. Remove the waffles, dredge with icing sugar (if using) and add your choice of topping to serve.

Toppings

The quantities are for 1 waffle.

Bacon and maple syrup: Serve each waffle with 1–2 pieces of back or streaky bacon, a drizzle of maple syrup and a dollop of soured cream.

Peanut butter and jam: Spread 1 tablespoon of peanut butter or homemade nut butter (see page 252) over the waffle and blob 1 tablespoon of raspberry or strawberry jam on top.

Kiwi fruit and raspberries: Scatter over 1 chopped kiwi fruit and a small handful of raspberries. Drizzle with a little runny honey and add a dollop of Greek or natural yoghurt.

Classic French omelette
SERVES 1–2 · VEGETARIAN (WITH NON - VEGETARIAN VARIATIONS)

The ultimate fast food, an omelette is perfect at any time of day, either on its own or with a crisp green salad. It is incredibly versatile, too. Try the variations listed here.

2 eggs

2 tsp milk

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

2 tsp butter

1 tbsp olive oil

1 Place a 23cm (9in) non-stick or cast-iron frying pan on a high heat until very hot. (The omelette should take only about 40–45 seconds to cook if the pan is hot enough.) Place the eggs in a bowl, add the milk, season with salt and pepper and beat together until thoroughly mixed.

2 Add the butter and olive oil to the pan and as soon as the butter sizzles and starts to turn brown, pour in the egg mixture. It will start to cook immediately, so using a plastic fish slice or wooden spatula, quickly pull the edges of the omelette towards the centre, tilting the pan so that the uncooked egg runs to the sides. Continue until most of the egg is set and will not run any more — the omelette may need to cook for a further 5 seconds to slightly brown the bottom. The centre should still be soft and moist. If you are using a filling (see below), then add it in a line along the centre now (except for those added to the egg mixture at the start).

3 To fold the omelette, flip the edge closest to the handle into the centre, then tilt the pan so that it is almost perpendicular to the plate so that the opposite edge of the omelette folds in and the omelette flips over. As you do this, slide the omelette out of the pan and onto the plate, and serve immediately.

Variations

Alpine breakfast omelette: To the egg mixture add 25g (1oz) grated Emmental and Gruyère cheese, 25g (1oz) soft and creamy goat’s cheese and 1 teaspoon of finely chopped chives and beat all the ingredients together.

Courgette and herb omelette: Sauté 50g (2oz) finely diced courgette with 1 finely chopped clove of garlic and a small pinch of salt and pepper in 15g (½oz) of butter or 2 tablespoons of olive oil for about 5 minutes until soft and golden. Drain on kitchen paper and leave to cool. Stir into the egg mixture along with 2 tablespoons of finely chopped herbs (such as mint, marjoram or basil).

Bacon and mushroom omelette: Stir 1 teaspoon of finely chopped chives into the egg mixture before cooking. Place 2 rashers of grilled bacon and 1 fried or roasted flat mushroom in the middle of the omelette before folding over. (This is a great way of using up leftover ingredients from a fried breakfast.)

Smoked salmon and goat’s cheese omelette: Add 25g (1oz) finely diced smoked salmon and 25g (1oz) soft, mild goat’s cheese (or cream cheese for an even milder flavour) to the middle of the omelette before folding over.

French toast
SERVES 4 · VEGETARIAN

The French call this pain perdu (‘lost bread’). It is made with slightly stale, leftover bread that you would otherwise throw out, but if you have only fresh bread to hand, leave it out overnight to dry out.

25g (1oz) butter

2 eggs

2 tbsp single or regular cream (or milk)

Pinch of salt

4 slices of white or brown bread

Icing sugar, for dusting

Honey or golden or maple syrup, to serve

1 Place a large, non-stick or cast-iron frying pan on a medium heat and add the butter. While it is melting, whisk the eggs with the cream or milk and salt in a wide, shallow bowl. Soak the bread in the egg mixture for a few seconds on each side and place in the hot pan.

2 Cook for 1–2 minutes on each side until deep golden in colour, then place on warm plates, dredge generously with icing sugar and serve with honey or golden or maple syrup drizzled over.

Variations

Spicy French toast: Add ground spices such as cinnamon, nutmeg or mixed spice to the egg mix before soaking the bread.

Fruity French toast: Add 1 small mashed banana or 50g (2oz) mashed raspberries or strawberries to the egg mix.

Rhubarb muffins
MAKES 12 MUFFINS · VEGETARIAN

These are great for breakfast or as a snack at any time of the day. Use fresh rhubarb when it’s in season in spring or frozen rhubarb at other times. If it is already sliced, it needn’t be defrosted.

150g (5oz) soft light brown sugar

1 tbsp sunflower oil

1 egg

1 tsp vanilla extract

100ml (3½fl oz) buttermilk or soured milk (see tip on page 24)

100g (3½oz) rhubarb, finely diced

175g (6oz) plain flour

1 tsp baking powder

1 tsp bicarbonate of soda

Pinch of salt

12-hole muffin tin

1 Preheat the oven to 200°C (400°F), Gas mark 6. Line the muffin tin with paper cases.

2 Place 125g (4½oz) of the sugar, the sunflower oil, egg, vanilla extract and buttermilk or soured milk in a large bowl. Beat until well mixed, then stir in the rhubarb. Sift in the flour, baking powder, bicarbonate of soda and salt, and stir until all the ingredients are combined. Try to avoid over-mixing or the muffins will become tough.

3 Divide the mixture between the muffin cases, filling them three-quarters full with batter and then sprinkle the remaining sugar on top of the batter in each muffin case.

4 Bake on the centre shelf of the oven for 18–20 minutes or until golden brown and firm to the touch. Allow to stand in the tin for a few minutes before placing on a wire rack to cool.

Spicy prune and apple muffins
MAKES 12 MUFFINS · VEGETARIAN

These are really delicious and filling first thing in the morning. They are also great for a snack or as a lunchbox treat.

275g (10oz) plain wholemeal flour

50g (2oz) rolled oats

125g (4½oz) soft light brown sugar

1 tbsp baking powder

1 tsp bicarbonate of soda

2 tsp ground mixed spice

175g (6oz) pitted prunes, roughly chopped

1 eating or cooking apple, peeled, cored and finely diced

250ml (9fl oz) buttermilk or soured milk (see tip below right)

50g (2oz) butter, melted and cooled

2 eggs

12-hole muffin tin

1 Preheat the oven to 200°C (400°F), Gas mark 6. Line the muffin tin with paper cases.

2 Mix the flour, oats and sugar together in a large bowl and sift in the baking powder, bicarbonate of soda and mixed spice. Stir in the prunes and apple.

3 Beat the buttermilk or soured milk, butter and eggs together and pour into the dry ingredients, stirring to combine and to give a smooth batter. Try to avoid over-mixing or the muffins will become tough.

4 Divide the batter between the muffin cases, filling them almost to the top. Bake on the centre shelf of the oven for about 20 minutes or until golden and firm to the touch. Allow to stand in the tin for a few minutes before placing on a wire rack to cool.

Rachel’s tip

To make your own soured milk, gently heat some standard milk (to the quantity required for the recipe) until warm, then remove from the heat, add the juice of ½ lemon and leave at room temperature overnight. If you are allergic to dairy products, this recipe works well with soya or rice milk soured in the same way.

Boiled eggs with soldiers
SERVES 2 · VEGETARIAN

This is the simplest recipe in the world but definitely one of my favourite things to eat. I love boiled eggs either for breakfast or for a simple supper when there’s nothing else in the house — the perfect standby! Use the freshest eggs possible and ones cooked from room temperature rather than from the fridge, so they are less likely to crack.

2 eggs, at room temperature

4 slices of white or brown bread

25g (1oz) butter, softened

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

1 Bring a small saucepan of water to a rolling boil. Carefully lower the eggs into the water with a slotted spoon (dropping the eggs may cause the shells to crack). Bring back up to the boil and begin timing from the point at which the water starts to boil. For soft-boiled eggs, cook for 4–5 minutes; 8 minutes for hard-boiled.

2 While the eggs are cooking, pop the bread in a toaster or under a preheated grill and toast until it is golden brown. Remove and spread with butter immediately so that it melts. Cut each piece into 4–5 fingers.

3 Carefully remove each egg with a slotted spoon and place it in an egg cup. When the eggs are cool enough to handle, either crack the tops with the back of a teaspoon (and peel the shell away) or slice them off with a knife. Season with salt and pepper.

4 Dip the buttered soldiers into the soft yolk (unless it’s hard-boiled, of course) and enjoy!

Variation

For a romantic, elegant, or Mother’s Day breakfast: serve with asparagus tips (blanched for 2–3 minutes in boiling water) for dipping rather than the soldiers. You can also use duck eggs.

Scrambled eggs
SERVES 2 · VEGETARIAN

As with omelettes and boiled eggs (see pages 20 and 25), scrambled eggs make the perfect quick meal. And just as with omelettes, they can be served in a huge number of delicious combinations. Mexican scrambled eggs are perfect for getting rid of a hangover: the chopped fresh coriander and chilli are just what you need to wake you up! Use the best free-range eggs for their lovely rich, yellow yolks and great flavour.

Basic scrambled eggs
SERVES 2 · VEGETARIAN

4 eggs

1 tbsp milk

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

25–40g (1–1½oz) butter

2–4 slices of white or brown bread

1 Crack the eggs into a bowl, add the milk, season with salt and pepper and beat together. Add 15g (½oz) of the butter to a small saucepan on a low heat, then immediately pour in the eggs and cook for 2–3 minutes, stirring continuously (I find a wooden spatula best for this), until the butter has melted and they are softly scrambled. Remove from the heat immediately so that the eggs don’t become overcooked.

2 Meanwhile, pop the slices of bread into a toaster or under a preheated grill and toast until golden brown. Remove and spread with the remaining butter, then place on plates, spoon over the cooked eggs and serve immediately.

Scrambled eggs with smoked mackerel, chives and parsley
SERVES 2

1 smoked mackerel fillet (about 110g/4oz in weight)

4 eggs

1 tbsp milk

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

15g (½oz) butter

1 tsp finely chopped chives

1 tsp finely chopped parsley

1 Remove the skin from the mackerel fillet, scraping off any dark residue left behind, then flake the flesh into small pieces.

2 Crack the eggs into a bowl, add the milk, season with salt and pepper and beat together. Add the butter to a small saucepan on a low heat, pour in the eggs and cook as in the basic recipe left.

3 Stir the flaked mackerel into the scrambled eggs, along with the chives and parsley. Check the seasoning and serve immediately.

Scrambled eggs with sautied mushrooms and chives
SERVES 2 · VEGETARIAN

1 tbsp sunflower oil

25g (1oz) butter

75g (3oz) mushrooms, quartered

Squeeze of lemon juice

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

4 eggs

1 tbsp milk

1 tbsp finely chopped chives

1 Heat the sunflower oil with half the butter in a medium-sized frying pan on a gentle heat and sauté the mushrooms for 4–5 minutes or until softened and turning golden. Squeeze over the lemon juice and season well with salt and pepper before removing from the heat with a slotted spoon.

2 Meanwhile, crack the eggs into a bowl, add the milk, season with salt and pepper and beat together. Add the remaining butter to a small saucepan on a low heat, pour in the eggs and cook as in the basic recipe opposite.

3 Stir in the chives and sautéed mushrooms and check the seasoning. Divide between plates and serve immediately.

Scrambled eggs with crispy bawn and grujire cheese
SERVES 2

1 tbsp olive oil

3 rashers of streaky bacon, cut into slices

4 eggs

1 tbsp milk

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

15g (½oz) butter

25g (1oz) Gruyère cheese, finely grated

1 tbsp finely chopped parsley

1 Heat the olive oil in a small frying pan and sauté the bacon for 2–3 minutes or until crisp and golden. Remove from the pan with a slotted spoon and drain on kitchen paper.

2 Meanwhile, crack the eggs into a bowl, add the milk, season with salt and pepper and beat together. Add the butter to a small saucepan on a low heat, pour in the eggs and cook as in the basic recipe opposite.

3 Stir in the cooked bacon, Gruyère and parsley. Check the seasoning, adding more salt and pepper if necessary, and serve immediately.

Mexican scrambled eggs: huevos revueltos
SERVES 2 · VEGETARIAN

15g (½oz) butter

6 cherry tomatoes, quartered

1 tsp finely chopped red or green chilli

4 eggs

1 tbsp milk

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

1 tbsp finely chopped red onion

1 tbsp roughly chopped coriander

1 Melt the butter in a small saucepan on a medium heat, add the tomatoes and chilli and cook for 2–3 minutes, covered with a lid, until they are soft.

2 Crack the eggs into a bowl, add the milk, season with a good pinch of salt and some pepper and beat together. Pour into the tomato and chilli mixture, reduce the heat and cook for 2–3 minutes, stirring continuously, until the eggs are softly scrambled.

3 Stir in the onion and coriander and check the seasoning. Divide between plates and serve the eggs either on their own or on top of warm tortillas or buttered toast.

Eggs Benedict
SERVES 2–4

The secret of poaching eggs is to use the freshest, highest-quality eggs you can find. These eggs are seriously dolled up, but you can of course serve them more simply on toast. Prepare the hollandaise sauce first and keep warm while you cook everything else.

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

4 eggs

2 English muffins, sliced in half

25g (1oz) butter

4 slices (about 110g/4oz) of ham or grilled rashers of bacon

150ml (5fl oz) hollandaise sauce (see page 331)

1 tbsp finely chopped chives

1 Fill a saucepan with water, add a pinch of salt and bring to a gentle simmer. Crack the eggs one by one into a small cup and slide it into the water. The water should not boil, but remain bubbling gently. Cook the eggs for 2–3 minutes or until the whites are set and the yolks still runny. Lift out carefully with a slotted spoon and drain well on kitchen paper.

2 Meanwhile, lightly toast the muffins in a toaster or under a preheated grill and butter the cut side. Put the muffin halves on plates and arrange a folded ham slice or grilled bacon rasher on top of each. Place a poached egg on top and spoon over the hollandaise sauce. Scatter with the chopped chives, grind some black pepper over the top and serve immediately.

Variation

Vegetarian eggs Benedict: Try this take on eggs Florentine (eggs served with spinach) by melting 25g (1oz) butter in a frying pan and sautéing 200g (7oz) spinach leaves, seasoned with salt and pepper, for 2–3 minutes or until wilted. Drain on kitchen paper and arrange on the muffin halves in place of the ham. Top with the poached egg, hollandaise sauce and chives, to serve.

Spotted dog
MAKES 1 LOAF · VEGETARIAN

This is a rich white soda bread with dried fruit added to make it ‘spotted'. It is also called ‘railway cake’ in some parts of Ireland, dating from the time when people took the train everywhere, with a currant for each station. A real family favourite of ours, it’s divine served straight from the oven, cut into slices and smothered in butter and jam or toasted and topped with cheese.

450g (1lb) plain flour, plus extra for dusting

1 level tsp bicarbonate of soda

1 tsp salt

1 tbsp caster sugar

110g (4oz) sultanas, raisins or currants (or a mixture)

1 egg

400ml (14fl oz) buttermilk or soured milk (see tip on page 24)

1 Preheat the oven to 220°C (425°F), Gas mark 7.

2 Sift the flour, bicarbonate of soda and salt into a large bowl, stir in the sugar and dried fruit and make a well in the centre. Beat the egg and buttermilk or soured milk together and pour most of it in (leaving about 50ml/2fl oz in the measuring jug).

3 Using one hand with your fingers outstretched like a claw, bring the flour and liquid together moving your hand in circles around the bowl, adding a little more buttermilk if necessary. Don’t knead the mixture or it will become too heavy. The dough should be softish but not too wet and sticky.

4 Once it comes together, turn onto a floured work surface and bring together a little more. Pat the dough into a round, about 6cm (2½in) in height, and cut a deep cross in it, from one side of the loaf to the other. Place on a baking tray lightly dusted with flour.

5 Bake in the oven for 10 minutes, then reduce the oven temperature to 200°C (400°F), Gas mark 6 and bake for a further 30–35 minutes. I often turn the loaf upside down for the last 5 minutes of cooking to help crisp the bottom. When cooked the bread will be golden and sound hollow when tapped on the base. Allow to cool on a wire rack before cutting into thick slices to serve.

Variation

Spotted dog scones: Make the spotted dog dough as above but flatten into a round about 2.5cm (lin) deep. Cut into scones using a cookie cutter or knife and bake for 15–20 minutes at 230°C (450°F), Gas mark 8.

Potato and onion frittata with grujire and thyme
SERVES 6 – 8 · VEGETARIAN

Frittata is a thick Italian omelette that can be made with a variety of different cheeses, vegetables and herbs. It’s a great way of using up leftover cooked potatoes, and is equally delicious served hot straight from the pan for breakfast or at room temperature for a picnic.

300g (11oz) (about 1 large or 2 small) waxy potatoes, peeled (and halved if large)

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

4 tbsp olive oil

1 onion, peeled and sliced

8 eggs

50g (2oz) Gruyère cheese, finely grated

110ml (4fl oz) single or regular cream

1 tbsp thyme leaves

Bunch of spring onions, sliced

25cm (10in) diameter ovenproof frying pan with a lid

1 Preheat the oven to 180°C (350°F), Gas mark 4.

2 Place the potatoes in a large saucepan, cover with water and add 1 teaspoon of salt. Bring to the boil and cook for 20–25 minutes or until tender. Drain the potatoes well and return to the pan on a very low heat to dry out for a minute or so. Remove from the heat, tip out onto a plate to cool a little and roughly dice.

3 Meanwhile, pour half the olive oil into the ovenproof frying pan on a gentle heat. Add the onion, cover with a lid and cook gently for 6–8 minutes, stirring regularly, until soft and slightly golden. Remove from the pan, spread out on a large plate and set aside to cool a little.

4 Next, whisk the eggs in a large bowl, then add the remaining ingredients and the cooked onions and potatoes, season with salt and pepper and gently stir together.

5 Place the remaining olive oil in the ovenproof pan and pour in the egg mixture, stirring briefly to distribute the ingredients evenly. Cook on a gentle heat for a few minutes until the mixture begins to set on the bottom, then bake in the oven for 15–20 minutes or until the mixture is set in the centre.

6 Remove the pan from the oven and allow the frittata to cool for a couple of minutes before sliding it onto a large serving plate. Cut into wedges to serve.

Kedgeree
SERVES 6 – 8

This classic dish is perfect for entertaining, whether for breakfast, brunch, lunch or dinner. It’s so easy to increase the quantities to feed lots of people. I love the addition of wild rice in this recipe, but it’s fine to use just basmati rice (white or brown) if you prefer. There are quite a few different elements to cook in this recipe, but then it’s just a matter of assembling all the individual ingredients. Serve this simply on its own, or with some mango chutney and a green salad.

150g (5oz) wild rice

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

350g (12oz) white or brown basmati rice

500g (1lb 2oz) smoked haddock (about 2 medium fillets)

25g (1oz) butter

350ml (12fl oz) milk

2 tsp cumin seeds

2 tsp coriander seeds

4 tbsp olive oil

2 large onions, peeled and thinly sliced

½ tsp cayenne pepper

½ tsp garam masala

10 eggs, at room temperature

225g (8oz) fresh or frozen peas

2 tbsp chopped coriander or parsley

2 tbsp chopped chives

50ml (2fl oz) single or regular cream

1 Tip the wild rice and a pinch of salt into a saucepan of boiling water and cook on a medium heat for about 45 minutes until the rice is cooked but with a tiny bite still left. Add the basmati rice and a pinch of salt to another saucepan of boiling water and cook until tender. (White basmati rice will take 10–12 minutes to cook and brown basmati rice 25–30 minutes.) Drain well and return both to one pan to keep warm.

2 Meanwhile, place the smoked haddock in a wide saucepan and add the butter, milk and a pinch of black pepper. Bring slowly to the boil, then reduce the heat and simmer gently for 10–12 minutes or until the fish is cooked. When it is ready it will begin to fall apart in chunks. Remove from the heat and set aside to cool slightly.

3 Place a very large frying pan on a high heat and toast the cumin and coriander seeds for a few seconds until just a shade darker, then remove the seeds and roughly crush them. (If you don’t have a pestle and mortar, simply tip them out onto a chopping board and crush them with a rolling pin or the base of a pan.)

4 Return the pan to a medium heat and add the olive oil. Tip in the onions and sauté for 4–5 minutes or until just turning golden. Add the crushed cumin and coriander seeds, along with the cayenne pepper and garam masala. Turn the heat down to low, cover the pan with a lid and continue to cook the onions for 12–15 minutes, stirring occasionally, until completely soft.

5 While the onions are cooking, bring a large saucepan of water to the boil, gently lower the eggs into the water with a slotted spoon and boil for just 6 minutes until semi-hard boiled. Drain the eggs and run cold water over them to stop them cooking. Peel them once they are cool enough to handle and cut into quarters.

6 Tip the peas into a saucepan of boiling water and cook for 1–2 minutes or until tender, then drain. Meanwhile, the haddock should now be cool enough to handle, so remove from the milk (reserving the milk for later), peel away the skin, remove any bones and flake the fish into chunks of about 1cm (½in).

7 Now that everything is cooked and prepared, you are ready to assemble the dish. Remove the lid covering the onions and, leaving the pan on a low heat, add the drained wild and basmati rice, the peas and half of each of the coriander or parsley and chives, stirring to mix. Pour over the cream, along with 50ml (2fl oz) of the milk the fish was cooked in, and gently stir to loosen the whole mixture slightly. Add the flaked haddock pieces, season with salt and pepper, to taste, and stir gently together.

8 Transfer the kedgeree to a wide, shallow serving dish or plate and arrange the quartered eggs on top and around the sides, then sprinkle with the remaining chopped herbs and serve.