Kitabı oku: «The Most Detailed Travel Guide around Irkutsk. All the attractions with the route of movement & addresses», sayfa 3

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Lenin Street

On the other side of the intersection, on the left, you can see the building of the oldest bank in Irkutsk. These is a former State Bank, established in 1899, which today is occupied by the Faculties of Geology and Social Sciences of ISU, as well as the Research Institute of Biology. The building was badly burned out during the revolutionary battles in 1917, and was rebuilt several years later with tetrahedral and octahedral domes that accentuated the building’s volumes.

State Bank

Across the road from it to the right is the building of the largest and oldest museum of arts in Siberia, which has more than 23 thousand works of painting, graphics, sculpture and decorative arts in its collection. The collection was based on the assemblage of the famous Irkutsk philanthropist and mayor V.P. Sukachev, who held the first exhibition back in 1874 and left his creation to Irkutsk shortly before the revolution. It is his name that the museum bears, which counts its creation from 25 April 1936.

The building itself was originally built for the needs of the Irkutsk gymnasium for boys in 1907 according to the project of D.R. Magidey. The main fund of the museum moved here in 1975, and despite the existence of three branches the exposition contains no more than 3% of all works of art.

Irkutsk gymnasium for boys

The nearby building of the Governorate Gymnasium for boys is also interesting. It’s opened here in 1805 and still is one of the oldest stone buildings in Irkutsk which was built back in 1799 for the needs of the main public school according to the project of A.I. Losev. Count M.M. Speransky, when he was the governor-general of Siberia, called this institution “authentically the best gymnasium in all of Russia.” And this is not surprising, since among the teachers there were such prominent historians as I.E. Muller, I.L. Slovtsov, I.V. Shcheglov and N.N. Kozmin.

Founder of the Soviet school in agronomic chemistry D.N. Pryanishnikov

Many famous people were graduates of this gymnasium, as the founder of the first school of Tibetan medicine P.A. Badmaev, Deputy Minister of Public Education of Russia M.S. Volkonsky, organizer of the first revolutionary political organization “People’s Will” in Siberia I. G. Neustroev, medical scientists V.N. Popov, K.M. Pavlinov, S.A. Sukhanov and P.N. Shastin, travellers V.C. Dorogostaysky and A.P. Fedchenko, founder of the Soviet school in agronomic chemistry D.N. Pryanishnikov, first rector of ISU M.M. Rubinstein, three times cavalier of Order of the Red Banner L.I. Kotelnikov, writers I.T. Kalashnikov, N.S. Shchukin, V.M. Mikheev, I.V. Fedorov-Omulevsky and F.M. Lytkin.

Tibetologist P.A. Badmaev

Tellingly, this building still houses an educational institution – the Irkutsk Aviation Technical School, which moved here in June 1945 to replace the cartridge plant No. 540 evacuated from Leningrad during the WWII (it was one of the four most powerful such factories in the country, produced more than 700 million ammunition).

On the site of the building opposite, where the Irkutsk Regional Geriatric Center is now located, there used to be the oldest kindergarten in the city, opened at the initiative of M.G. Tyumentseva in 1869. Its building, designed by the best architect of Irkutsk, Baron H.V. Rosen in 1882 instead of the burnt down old one, it was one of the best wooden buildings in the capital of Eastern Siberia. However, in 1938, during the construction of the clinic, it was moved and installed on the site of the parish cemetery of the St. Charalambos Church. Today, on the site of the kindergarten, there is a public garden named after one of the first doctors of sciences in the USSR, as well as the Irkutsk author of the textbook on nervous diseases K.G. Hodos.

At the crossroads there are towering buildings representing the reference buildings of the Soviet era, which surprisingly organically fit into the old city face. At the corner of Lenin and Gorky streets there is the famous Irkutsk “house with a trunk” built in 1950 according to the project of E.F. Yanko. Here lived the main artist of Irkutsk in 1970s and the author of the memorial “Eternal Flame” V.G. Smagin. Opposite on the left the house in which she spent the last years of her life People’s Artist of the RSFSR G.A. Kramova. On the other side of the crossroads there is another magnificent monument of Soviet architecture – a house buit in 1948 according to the project of A.S. Butenko, where lived until his death the famous poet-ethnographer A.S. Olkhon (Pestyukhin).

Poet-ethnographer A.S. Olkhon (Pestyukhin)

Gorky Street

The next thing that attracts our attention is the monument to the five-time nominee for the Nobel Prize in Literature M. Gorky, established in 1984 on the left in a small square. Nearby is the “Radiohouse” – one of the most bizarre buildings of the Soviet era in Irkutsk, consisting of parts made at different times in more than half a century, but united into a single complex thanks to the talented architect N.N. Belyakov in 1982.

Radiohouse

On the other side of the road are the buildings of the Baikal State University, which opened in Irkutsk in 1930. They are adjoined by a small park, organized here in 2011 and named after Shigeki Mori – the permanent mayor of the Japanese town of Neagari, Ishikawa province, which has twinning relations with the city Shelekhov – an industrial neighbour of Irkutsk. Also he was this mayor who initiated the twinning relationship between Irkutsk and the Japanese city of Kanazawa in 1967.

Park named after Shigeki Mori

After the park, the first wooden house on the right side of the street belonged to a member of the Irkutsk judicial chamber M.S. Stravinsky and served as the building of the vice-consulate of Belgium in Irkutsk from 1914 to 1920. Moreover, the owner of the mansion himself became the first ambassador.

On the same side of the street, at the crossroads, you can see the estate of the mayor V.V. Zharnikov, who went down in history as the creator of the first water supply system in Irkutsk in 1905. An old sculpture “Boy with a Swan” is hiding in the garden which surrounding the house.

Mayor V.V. Zharnikov

On the opposite side of the street there is a small square with a monument to the first modern governor of Irkutsk Y.A. Nozhikov, which was installed in honour of the 75th anniversary of the Irkutsk region in 2012 to replace the sculpture of a dragon that appeared at this place since 2007. It is interesting that earlier this was the place where the bust of M. Gorky was located, until it was destroyed by vandals in 1963.

Monument to the first modern governor of Irkutsk Y.A. Nozhikov

Continuing along this street, on the left we notice two more buildings in the brutalist style, belonging to the talent of V.A. Pavlov. Opposite to them the building of the gynaecological clinic. Further, on the other side of the road, the walls of the famous “House of the Pilots”, created on this place in 1936, where lived the pilot and Hero of Socialist Labour I.N. Sharov (flew over 17 thousand hours). The headquarters of the Central Air Communications Agency is still located here. At the entrance, a few years ago, it was possible to see columns made from gravestones from the Old Jerusalem cemetery.

Closes the Gorky Street “House of Science and Technology” built in 1955 according to the project of N. А. Sergeev on the site of the former passage of A.F. Vtorov, which since 1897 occupied the corner of the block along this street and was considered one of the largest stores in Irkutsk. This richest merchant was the founder of the first “supermarkets” in Russia. His passages were located in all major cities of Russia from Petersburg to Sretensk. Here lived for many years the youngest of two sons of this merchant – Alexander. Unfortunately, the passage completely burned out in December 1917 during the battles on the streets of Irkutsk.

Passage of A.F. Vtorov

Labour Square

We turn left and run into Labour Square, the main dominant of which is the circus building, built in 1964. Irkutsk became the first city in Siberia and on Far East where such a building appeared. Irkutsk residents are longtime fans of such performances. The first circus troupe of a certain Mikoletto visited the city back in 1795, and a permanent wooden building appeared on Tikhvin Square thanks to the Italian entrepreneur Soulier in 1868.

Earlier, starting from the 1780s, this place was occupied by Ivanovskaya Square with trading rows of Melochny (“Trivial”) Bazaar, where people traded mainly in agricultural goods brought from the villages. Behind the circus building, you can still see the shops of the Old City Public Administration, which have been occupied by a mica factory since 1929 (now Sverdlova Str., 41).

Trading rows of Melochny (“Trivial”) Bazaar

Here from the house of the merchant V.A. Ostapin on June 22, 1879, the Great Fire began, which destroyed the best part of Irkutsk. The flames blazed for three days and swallowed up the entire city center. Burnt out 75 blocks with 105 stone and 3418 wooden buildings. The fire took away practically all public, educational and state institutions, many temples, museum; also destroyed the entire city archive with unique documents.

Map of the Great Fire in Irkutsk

However, one of the oldest buildings in Irkutsk is still preserved on the other side of the square – the building of the hotel “Moscow Courtyard” created in 1821 at the expense of the merchant N.P. Trapeznikov, and donated to the city for free use of the City Court in 1887 by his grand-nephew, which already known to us as V.P. Sukachev. The justice authorities are here to this day.

Moscow Courtyard

At the end of the ensemble of the square, the building of the central telegraph, built in 1932 by the architect N.N. Baikov. It is located on the site of the former house of I. A. Nemchinov, where in November 1903 the main telegraph office of Irkutsk was transferred. Today the representative office of OJSC “Rostelecom” is located here.

Main telegraph office of Irkutsk

There is an illuminated fountain in the center of the square. Earlier in its place was located one of the most picturesque stone chapels of Irkutsk – in the name of the Iveron Icon of the Mother of God. It was installed here in 1892 by the architect V.A. Kudelsky at the expense of the Irkutsk industrialist and philanthropist A.M. Sibiryakov.

Chapel in the name of the Iveron Icon of the Mother of God

Noteworthy is the nearby best monument in Russia to the famous film director L.I. Gaidai, established here in 2012. For a talented cinematographer, Irkutsk has become a fateful city. Here he graduated from school No. 42 (now Lyceum No. 36 of JSC “Russian Railways”), volunteered for the front, returned injured, received his first theatrical experience and decided to become an actor. In addition, L.I. Gaidai wrote his first script, which brought him worldwide fame for the film “Dog Barbos and Unusual Cross”, when had found a play of S.I. Oleinik in the attic of his parents’ house in Irkutsk in 1961. It is the scene from this film that is shown in the composition of the monument designed by S.B. Demkov.

Monument to the famous film director L.I. Gaidai

Sverdlov Street

Well, and we continue to move along Sverdlov Street, in the past it bore the name of an outstanding merchant, philanthropist and mayor V.N. Basnin. Today only the library wing, where the “Museum of Communications” is located, and also a small house facing the main street, remained from his family estate. The latter is one of the oldest stone residential buildings in the city and was built in 1801, but lost its second floor after the Great Fire.

V.N. Basnin’s estate

Since 1834, almost a third of this quarter was occupied by the Basnin’s Garden with greenhouses, the collection of which was formed by the best expert of Asian plants among his contemporaries N.S. Turchaninov. However, the fire element did not spare it either. Today in its place is the school No. 11, built in 1915 according to the project of K.W. Mital. The graduates of this institution were the Hero of the Soviet Union A.S. Bogdanov, cosmonaut A.A. Ivanishin, pianist D.L. Matsuev and many other famous scientists and public figures.

Basnin’s Garden

Right behind the school is the building of the former hotel “Commercial Courtyard”, which opened here in 1902. After the revolution and up to the 1970s, it housed a dormitory for Irkutsk theatre workers, and during the WWII the actors of Moscow Satire Theater and Kiev Opera Theater lived here. Today it occupied by various departments and committees of the Irkutsk administration.

Hotel “Commercial Courtyard”

Opposite there is a one-storey house where lived the famous explorer of the Eastern Sayan Mountains and the merchant S.P. Peretolchin. Immediately behind it is the small building of the poorhouse of the Tikhvin Church, adjoining against the walls of the “Vostsibugol” building – the only construction that has survived from that magnificent temple.

2nd Khaminov’s gymnasium for girls

On the opposite side of the road, the department of humanitarian and aesthetic education of the Pedagogical Institute of Irkutsk State University, which is located in the building of the former 2nd Khaminov’s gymnasium for girls, which opened here in 1912. Here at the school of red commanders for four months in 1920 studied the future founder of Mongolia D. Sukhe-Bator, after whom named this street. In 1935, according to the project of K.W. Mital, a “party activist house” was added to the gymnasium building, which today also occupied by ISU.

Zhelyabov Quarter

We turn right to the main merchant street of Irkutsk, named today in honour of A.I. Zhelyabov who was one of the organizers of the assassination of Emperor Alexander II. In the past, it bore the name of famous merchant of the 1st guild, twice elected mayor and patron of the arts K.N. Trapeznikov. There are many beautiful merchant mansions along the street.

Merchant of the 1st guild K.N. Trapeznikov

First on the left is the magnificent house of A.F. Vtorov with openwork monograms “AB”, meaning the initials of the owner, built in the neo-russian style according to the project of the famous theatre architect V.A. Schroeter in 1897. The owners moved out of the mansion back in 1913, and already on October 29, 1917, the first All-Siberian Congress of Soviets took place there, and a committee of Central Siberia was elected. Since 1937, the building has housed the “Palace of Children and Youth Creativity”, which has brought up a whole galaxy of talents from the poet M.D. Sergeev to pianist D.L. Matsuev.

House of A.F. Vtorov

The magnificent mansion is adjoined by a shopping building, which was built for the merchant N.S. Chupalov back in 1801, according to A.I. Losev, but it was bought by the family of Vtorov. After it is a house of the Soviet era, built in 1951, overlooks Labour Square. It adjoins the mansion of the 1st guild merchant I.S. Dubnikov, whose estate occupied almost the entire block in the past.

1st guild merchant A.F. Vtorov

We dive to the left into a short lane and freeze in front of the walls of a magnificent castle with towers and “Stars of David” in the frieze. It is easy to guess that this is the house of the head of the Jewish community of Irkutsk I.M. Feinberg. The mansion was built according to the project of the city architect A.I. Kuznetsov in 1902. Since then, the house has been occupied by many organizations from the construction management of the Circum-Baikal Railway to the art museum and college, which is now located there. During the civil war in Russia, the units of the Red Army were formed here and also worked famous commanders S.G. Lazo and A.A. Taube.

On the right, through the branches of the trees, you can see the sculpture “Muse”, which was installed on the 300th anniversary of the assignment of the status of the city to Irkutsk in 1986 opposite the building of the Irkutsk Regional Children’s School of Arts. By the way, here studied until 1990 the People’s Artist of the Russian Federation, virtuoso pianist D.L. Matsuev. Thanks to this man, since 2004, every September in Irkutsk, the festival of classical music “Stars on Baikal” has been held. The repertoire of the musical theatre in the capital of Eastern Siberia at this time resembles the posters of the best concert halls in the world.

Virtuoso pianist D.L. Matsuev

Directly behind the school of arts placed a small wooden house of mechanics Karasev, where in 1909 illegally lived the frustrated head of the Soviet Union S.M. Kirov. He spent six months in Irkutsk and during this time changed 12 addresses. His underground work led to numerous strikes by railroad workers in 1910.

S.M. Kirov

Opposite is the exhibition center named after the Irkutsk artist V.S. Rogal, which opened here in 1999 and is often used for various thematic exhibitions, so this is one of the most dynamically developing art museums in Irkutsk. In the past at this place was a small wooden house, where in 1901 was born one of the greatest documentary filmmakers of the XX century – M.I. Romm.

Exhibition center named after the Irkutsk artist V.S. Rogal

At the next crossroads, we turn right onto the street named after the founder of the squadron of anarchists and partisan movement in Eastern Siberia during the civil war, N.A. Kalandarishvili. At the corner of the street (Khalturina, 8/1) you can still see the house where he lived. He was visited several times by such people as one of the founders of Mongolia and the head of the guerrilla movement in Western Siberia B.Z. Shumyatsky, as well as the commander of the troops of the Far Eastern Republic I.P. Uborevich. In many ways, the Mongolian state was created in this house.

Founder of the squadron of anarchists in Siberia N.A. Kalandarishvili

The famous “Zhelyabov” wooden quarter begins from this lane. In this part of Irkutsk, an entire area of historical buildings has been preserved almost in its original form. On the left is the one-story wing of the estate of the impoverished merchant Vyazmin on Kalandarishvili Street meet us first. All of its buildings are designed in a classic style.

We turn left and find ourselves at the end of the 19th century. On the right, across the street is Orlova’s pink mansion, upholstered in rustic wood. Continue moving along Zhilyabov Street, on the left we notice the magnificent greenish carved house of Lavrentiev, which was rented out for the needs of the gymnasium for boys of the Russian Gentry Assembly since 1906.

House of Lavrentiev

Behind it is Ivanov’s mansion painted in red lead with an apartment building. At the end of XIX century here lived son of the main fur trader in Siberia and the first director of Irkutsk Drama Theatre I.B. Patushinsky.

He was followed by the beige estate of the explorer of the Aleutian Islands and one of the leaders of Russian America A.P. Ocheredin (st. Zhelyabova, 25a). Here we turn right into the narrow Pugachev lane.

We are greeted by the recently renovated house of the merchant V. Posokhov, where the hotel of the same name is located today. Behind it is the modest but oldest grey estate of Kolchenov with an outbuilding and a barn built in the 1860s.

Mutual Insurance Society im Irkutsk

The lane ends up with a long brick building of the warehouse of the Mutual Insurance Society built in the 1880s. At the crossroads let’s turn left and go to the next intersection, opposite which is the Intermunicipal Directorate of the Ministry of Internal Affairs of Russia “Irkutskoye”, which is easy to identify by the retro police car standing in the exhibit to the right of the entrance.

Let’s turn left here again, going around the two wooden houses of the Dobrokhotova estate. After them you can see an inconspicuous beige house, where in 1902 was born the famous constructor of military helicopters N.I. Kamov. By the way, shortly after his birth, this house was visited by polar explorer A.V. Kolchak.

House, where was born the constructor of helicopters N.I. Kamov

The opposite side of the street is occupied by a residential building built in 1987 in the brutalist style according to the project of V.A. Pavlova. At the intersection with Zhelyabov Street on the left, is Michurin’s blue estate with store.

Further, on the Dekabr’skikh Sobytiy Street attention is drawn to Shipunov estate with a stone first floor located on the right. After it is the former Yakovlev‘s apartment building with an arms shop.

Michurin’s estate with store

But more attention attracts the huge stone mansion in poor condition on the other side of the intersection. This is the estate of famous Irkutsk merchants and benefactors known as Medvednikovs, after whom the modern Khalturin Street was once named. They were the founders of the first bank in the history of Irkutsk, as well as the first gymnasium for girls in Siberia. The building itself was created back in 1795 according to the project of A.I. Losev and now requires immediate restoration.

Here we turn right on Khalturin Street in order to admire the mansion of the city architect A.P. Artyushkov in a classic style (Khalturina st., 21), which was recently restored. The street, named after the author of the terrorist attack in the Winter Palace in 1880 S.N. Khalutrin, ends at the fence of the shopping center “Fortuna”.

Mansion of the city architect A.P. Artyushkov

In the past, all trading floors here were occupied by the firstborn of mechanical engineering in the Irkutsk region – the heavy machinery plant named after V.V. Kuybyshev. It arose in this part of the city in 1930 on the basis of E. Khanov’s transport workshops, where military transport was repaired and produced for the needs of Siberia and the Far East. After the revolution, the main profile of the enterprise was the production of gold mining equipment. In 1968, the world’s largest river scoop dredge (length 236 m, width 50 m, height 54 m, weight 10,300 tons) was created here. Totally 184 dredges were produced, which are currently used in 17 countries of the world.

The world’s largest river scoop dredge

In addition, the plant created equipment that is now installed on almost all blast furnaces of the former Soviet Union. Not to mention that the largest plants of ferrous and non-ferrous metallurgy in Russia are equipped with semi-continuous casting machines manufactured by IHMP. Although only two workshops remain of the former greatness, today the enterprise is being revived. In 2012 it received an order to manufacture metal structures for the cosmodrome “Vostochny”.

Immediately behind the former buildings of IHMP Ushakovka River begins – another waterway of Irkutsk. Initially it was called Ida, but in 1681 the merchants brothers Ushakovs built a mill on it and they began to be called by their last name. In the past, it caused a lot of trouble for the city by floods, and its mouth stretched for 400 m. However, today the river is unrecognizable – it has become very shallow, the water is not drinkable, and the hydrogen sulphide springs, which made its waters curative in the past, were filled up during the development of the quarry inside the city.

Ushakovka River

We are crossing Ushakovka River along the Znamensky bridge, which appeared near the mouth by 1868 and find ourselves in the suburb of Marat. Once upon a time at this place was the building of the Admiralty, which located in Irkutsk from 1754 to 1839. and managed the Pacific Fleet, as well as subsequently the affairs of Russian America. At that time, the capital of Eastern Siberia already had its own navigation school and shipyards; factories for the production of ropes, shipbuilding materials, anchors; there was a spinning mill, a resin factory, hemp shops and much more.