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CHAPTER IX
HARDY BULBS

Liliums – Liliums in Pots – Malvastrum – Merenderas – Millas – Narcissi – Narcissi in Pots

Liliums

The Lily is the noblest of bulbous plants, and it is to be regretted that its cultivation often presents insuperable difficulties in many gardens. There are a few species which can be grown almost anywhere, it is true, but the greater number require special conditions of soil or climate. As this noble plant may form the subject of a separate work in this series, I shall only give a brief summary of the leading species and their requirements for the benefit of the general reader.

The easiest to grow in the garden are those which are satisfied with ordinary, well-dug soil, with the addition of some leaf-soil, if it is heavy, or some loam, if light. This class comprises the favourite candidum, the Madonna Lily, of which there are several varieties, such as one with a golden margin to the leaves; spicatum, also known as flore pleno, which has partly double flowers; and striatum, with flowers streaked purple outside. There are also chalcedonicum, with scarlet "Turk's-cap" flowers and its variety Heldreichii; the dark-hued hybrid dalhansoni; bulbiferum; the pretty concolor, with its forms Coridion and pulchellum; the brilliant croceum; dauricum, known as umbellatum in some gardens; the pretty elegans (syn. thunbergianum); the good yellow Hansoni; and that comparatively new Lily, Henryi. In this soil, also, can be grown the exquisite longiflorum, with its trumpet-shaped blooms, and its varieties giganteum, eximium (Wilsoni of some), foliis albo-marginatus, Takesima, Harrisii, and præcox. The hybrid Marhan thrives in the same soil, as also do the typical Martagon; the pretty pomponium; the strongly-scented pyrenaicum; and the ever popular speciosum (syn. lancifolium), of which there are so many good varieties, such as album Krætzeri, album novum, Melpomene, roseum superbum, cruentum and punctatum. To these may be added the pretty tenuifolium; the well-known tigrinum, with its forms splendens, Fortunei, and fl. A selection of varieties of L. elegans would include such as Alice Wilson, alutaceum, atrosanguineum, aurantiacum, Batemani, often called L. Batemanniæ, Horsmanni, Flore-pleno, Prince of Orange, Van Houttei, and Wilsoni. There are also a number of varieties of umbellatum.

The following Lilies require a deep and well-dug friable loam, lightened with sand and leaf-soil if of a clayey nature: —

Alexandræ, a fine new Lily; the splendid auratum with its many forms, of which platyphyllum, rubrovittatum, virginale and Wittei may be named; Bolanderi; Brownii; callosum; columbianum, giganteum and the allied cordifolium; the fine Humboldtii; the rather unsatisfactory japonicum, better known as Krameri; japonicum Colchesteri; Leichtlinii; Lowii, neilgherrense. Martagon album; M. dalmaticum; M. cataniæ; nepalense; pulchellum; the pretty new rubellum; rubescens; sulphureum; monadelphum or szovitzianum – a well proved species – Wallacei, and washingtonianum. Although these all do with the compost named, unfortunately some are almost impossible to grow in ordinary gardens.

The following like a moist peaty soil, although some can be grown without this, but it is safer to study their likings: – canadense with its varieties; carniolicum; Grayii; maritimum; pardalinum, with its varieties californicum, Bourgæi, Johnsoni, minor, and Michauxii; Parryi; parvum; philadelphicum; Roezlii; and superbum.

In planting Lilies, they should have the crowns from four to six inches below the surface, and should be surrounded with some sharp sand. In heavy soil it is desirable to plant the bulbs on their sides.

Lilies in Pots

Lilies make beautiful pot plants, and in pots their cultivation is very simple. Fibrous loam, peat, and a little decayed manure and sand will grow them well. It is a good practice not to cover the bulbs too deeply at first, and to add soil afterwards as growth is made and roots formed at the base of the stems. Watering must be carefully applied, so as to give enough without souring the soil. Plunge the pots in frames, and bring them in when growth is so far completed, or place outside in sheltered positions until they show flower. Repotting is best done as soon as the stems are quite withered.

Malvastrum Gilliesii

This is a very pretty little trailing rock garden plant, with tuberous roots, and only a few inches high. It likes a sunny place, but must not suffer from drought in summer. The flowers are of a bright crimson-purple. It is hardy in a sheltered rockery.

Merenderas

The Merenderas are closely related to the Colchicums, and are amenable to similar treatment. The species grown in gardens are M. Bulbocodium, four inches, lilac, blooming in autumn; caucasica, blooming in May, and having rosy flowers; and persica, which flowers in late autumn and has pale lilac blooms.

Milla

The Millas are pretty bulbous plants, but the only one worth growing as a hardy bulb is M. uniflora, often called Triteleia uniflora, which has white flowers, shaded with blue, in spring. The form violacea has porcelain-blue flowers striped with a deeper blue. The Milla can be grown in the border or rock-garden, but it likes the edge of a gravel path, where it will soon establish itself. Plant in early autumn with the crown about two inches deep.

Narcissi

It is impossible to treat properly of the Narcissus in the space available in a work of this character, but as it is proposed to publish a volume devoted entirely to this charming flower, it will be sufficient to give a chapter dealing generally with the flower and its ways.

Generally speaking, the cultivation of the Narcissus out of doors is without difficulty, if we can give it a free, loamy soil, and a pure air. The exceptions are few, except that there are some species which are troublesome, and apparently resent being grown in cultivated ground, and die off there. Some of these will thrive on grass or on rockwork, while they die in the border. The white trumpet Narcissi are among the most troublesome in this respect, and some find it necessary to plant them on grassy banks facing the north. This is not desirable in the north, and it will be well to try various positions before finally giving up the cultivation of the fascinatingly beautiful white trumpet Narcissi. The Hoop-petticoat Narcissi, as the forms of N. Corbularia are called, are difficult to establish. Those who wish to attempt them may begin first with citrina, the sulphur one. Many find them thrive best planted where the roots can reach water, such as in light, peaty soil, above a milk pan sunk in the soil. The writer has, however, frequently seen plants established in the border or rock-garden. Triandrus albus, the exquisite "Angel's Tears," is troublesome to establish also. It ought to be planted in a crevice of the rockery in gravel, sand, and peat. The form Triandrus pulchellus, although scarce, is a much better grower. The beautiful little N. moschatus, of Haworth, is difficult to grow except on grass; and others which thrive better thus planted than in the ordinary border are named by Messrs Barr. Their list may be safely followed, although one's experience of several is that they grow quite well in a border; much, however, depending upon the character of the soil and how it is drained. The varieties are: – Achilles, Countess of Annesley, Spurius, Thomas Moore, Pseudo-narcissus, the English Lent Lily, variiformis, and pallidus præcox. Few of the Tazetta Narcissi are suitable for outdoor culture, although in the milder districts of England and Ireland they may be grown in the open.

As the Narcissus prefers a soil without animal manure within reach of its roots, it is better to cultivate it in land manured for a previous crop, or to add artificial fertilisers, than cow or horse manure. Experienced growers prefer a small quantity of basic slag or bone meal. In light soils a sprinkling of sulphate of potash is applied annually in autumn.

Planting is best done early in autumn, September being a good month, but the varieties of N. poeticus should be in earlier if possible. Occasional lifting and replanting is advisable.

Narcissi in Pots

In cultivating the Narcissus in pots or boxes a somewhat similar method may be adopted as in the case of Hyacinths in pots, but they will generally stand more forcing. The Tazetta, or Bunch-flowered Narcissi, such as Paper White, are largely used, and can be had very early in bloom.

CHAPTER X
HARDY BULBS

Ornithogalums – Oxalises – Pæonias – Ranunculuses – Romuleas – Sanguinarias – Sternbergias – Schizostylis – Tecophilæas – Trilliums

Ornithogalums

The Ornithogalums, or Stars of Bethlehem, are not general favourites in gardens, because of their seeding propensities, which make them difficult to keep within bounds. Several are very pleasing and deserve some attention, because of their white and green flowers. Umbellatum, the common species, is only suitable for the wild-garden, but the little tenuifolium is pretty, as also are fimbriatum and montanum. Nutans is pretty also, but increases too rapidly. Pyramidale is a fine plant about two feet high. They like a sandy soil and to be planted about two inches deep. None of the yellow Ornithogalums are hardy.

Oxalises

The Oxalises, or Wood Sorrels, are bright little plants, although their value is reduced by their flowers only opening in sun. There is a pretty lilac variety of O. Acetosella, our common Wood Sorrel, and Bowiei and floribunda, with rose flowers, are quite hardy in light soil. Lobata, a beautiful little yellow species, flowering in October, is also hardy, as well as the exquisite white enneaphylla. Tetraphylla, lasiandra, l. alba, and violacea may also be tried with every prospect of success. Give a sunny position in light soil, and if planted in autumn cover slightly the first winter.

Pæonias

The herbaceous Pæonias, which are such brilliant ornaments of our gardens in May and June, would require more space to do them justice than we can command. They like a rich, well-manured soil, inclining to heaviness and thoroughly trenched before planting in early autumn. After the plants are in position mulch the ground with rotten manure, and when growth is being made in summer give liberal applications of manure water to induce free growth. The crowns should be a little below the surface, and plant if possible where the sun does not reach them until a little before noon. The list of superior varieties is extremely extensive, and those thinking of purchasing Pæonias should either select the plants while they are in bloom, or from the catalogues of dealers who grow these flowers largely. The single forms are very beautiful also, though they hardly keep so long in bloom. Many of the species are also attractive plants, and where there is sufficient space a selection of these should be made and grown. The common Peony of old gardens is P. officinalis.

Ranunculuses

At one time a favourite florist's flower, the Ranunculus has fallen greatly out of favour, and there are now few named sorts grown. It is, however, well worth growing for its beauty as a garden flower and also for cutting. A bowl of pure white Ranunculi with the foliage of Heuchera Richardsoni, or some other dark-leaved plant, is a charming thing, and many equal beautiful effects can easily be produced. The florist's Ranunculus was derived from R. asiaticus, and there are flowers of almost all colours among the double varieties which have been raised. A good strain of mixed Ranunculuses will produce many good flowers at a small expense. The principal forms now grown are the Turban or Turkish and the Persian, which are varied in their colours. Those named R. asiaticus superbus are large and showy, if a little coarse to those accustomed to the more refined flowers of the others. They can be grown in an ordinary border well manured, and can be planted from October to February. In planting choose a dry day, and keep the crowns two inches below the surface. Care must be taken to keep the crown up, and to cover this with a little sand after planting. Cover with some litter in winter, and water freely when coming into bloom. Lift when the foliage becomes yellow, and dry off in a cool and airy place, storing the tubers in dry sand.

There are a few other tuberous-rooted species of Ranunculus worth growing in the garden. Of these the best are the double form of the native R. bulbosa which has yellow flowers; R. chærophyllus, yellow; R. monspeliacus, yellow; and R. millefoliatus grandiflorus, the same colour. These are easily grown in the border in ordinary soil.

Romuleas

Romuleas are remarkably pretty little bulbs with Crocus-like flowers, from March to July, and grassy leaves. They require warm, sunny spots on rockwork, and in cold localities should be grown in a frame. They like sandy soil. Among the best and hardiest are R. Bulbocodium, with blue and yellow flowers. The variety pylium is even prettier. Columnæ is pretty with its white flowers. Clusii, lavender, and speciosa, rosy violet, are both pretty. Plant in autumn two inches deep, and protect in winter.

Sanguinarias

S. canadensis, the only species, is a pretty little plant, known as the Bloodroot, Red Puccoon, or Red Indian Paint, and perfectly hardy. It has white flowers with a yellow centre in April, and the leaves are not fully developed until after the flowers. It likes a rich moist soil, but can be grown in the border. The best form is grandiflora, and the one called multipetala has many narrow petals. There is said to be a pinkish form.

Sternbergias

The Sternbergias are handsome autumn flowers with blooms like a glorified yellow Crocus, which appear before the leaves. The best for the open air is S. lutea angustifolia, a narrow-leaved variety of the common lutea. Others of much beauty are fischeriana and macrantha, the latter having very large flowers. In order to make them flower they need a dry, sunny position in soil with limestone or lime rubbish. They should be planted in summer about two inches deep.

Schizostylis coccinea

The Kaffir Lily is a valuable late blooming plant in a warm, sunny border, where it blooms in autumn, when its bright scarlet flowers in long spikes are much appreciated. Although it likes a warm position, it must not suffer from drought in its growing period. Plant in spring about three inches deep. It makes a good pot plant for a cool house.

Tecophilæas

The beautiful little Tecophilæas are quite hardy in light soils, but are, because of their scarcity, usually grown in frames or in pots in greenhouses. They have pretty Crocus-like flowers of blue and white, and should be planted in rich, light soil in a sunny position, well-sheltered from wind, or in a frame. Slugs are very partial to them, and must be carefully guarded against. The leading species are cyano-crocus and violæflora.

Trilliums

The Trilliums, or Trinity Flowers, are very ornamental plants, and are so distinct in form that they please everyone. They like shade and a moist peaty soil. Grandiflorum is a general favourite, with its large flowers of pure white. There is also a rose-coloured form named grandiflorum roseum. Even finer than grandiflorum is sessile var. californicum, which is considerably taller, and has fine white flowers, those of the typical sessile being purple. Cernuum, erectum, erectum album, nivale, petiolatum, recurvatum, and stylosum are all pretty, the last being the latest to bloom, and well worth growing. Plant in autumn or spring, with the crown one or two inches below the surface of the soil.

CHAPTER XI
HARDY BULBS

Tulips – Zephyranthes

Tulips

It is a matter for regret that the true beauty of the Tulip has been so long obscured by the manner of its planting in stiff lines or beds, where the flowers stood in almost regimental array, with little but their own foliage to tone down the superfluous brilliancy of the mass of colour. It is emphatically a flower which requires association with other plants to show its true value. Grown in bold clumps in the mixed border, or in irregular groups among the rougher grass, it gives a much better effect. Individually, the Tulips are very beautiful, and their value in pots is of a high degree. Of course those who grow the English florist's Tulip ought to continue to grow them in beds and in lines, so that they can be protected from frost and shaded readily from strong sunshine. For ordinary gardens, however, an informal grouping will be the most satisfactory and pleasing. The species are very varied in their character, and many of the dwarfer are delightful rock-garden plants. A good, loamy soil is suitable for all classes of Tulips, but where it is heavy a little coarse sand may be placed about the bulb. It is well to plant comparatively early, from the beginning of October to the end of November being the most suitable time. In gardens subject to late frosts, it is better to plant in November than in the earlier month. Three or four inches is the depth generally recommended, but on light soil an additional inch may be given. Six inches apart is a good distance at which to plant the bulbs for ordinary effect. The English florist's Tulip ought to have a good loamy soil, the bulbs being planted three inches deep and four apart in lines. The end of October to the middle of November is the best time, but the bulbs should never be planted unless the soil is in a good working condition. Some litter should be put over the beds in severe frosts, and an awning erected over them at the blooming-time to preserve the flowers from rain and strong sun. There are a number of details connected with the florist's Tulip and its cultivation which cannot be given in the space of this work, but Mr Bentley's little pamphlet, entitled "The English Tulip," will give all necessary information not to be found here. The florist's Tulip can be grown in a border, but its effect there is not so good as that of some of the self-coloured flowers.

The early Tulips are the most prized for pot-culture, but the others may be used also, although not generally so amenable to forcing. They should be planted at the rate of from three to five bulbs in a five-inch pot, according to the size of the bulbs. After planting, the pots should be plunged in ashes or cocoa-fibre until they have made root-growth, when they may be brought in as required and subjected to gentle forcing. Watering must be carefully attended to at this time. When a number of flowers are required for jardinettes, etc., the Tulips may be grown closely together in boxes. When they show colour, they may be lifted with roots intact, and planted in moss in the receptacles in which they are required.

The most valuable Tulips for early work are the early Dutch varieties, many of which are very beautiful and embrace much variety of colour. The varieties of Duc Van Thol and Pottebakker are largely used for early bloom, but other good varieties are Bacchus, Canary Bird, Keizerskroon, Mon Tresor, and Proserpine. Following these are the popular Artus, Cottage Maid, Crimson King, and many others. As, however, almost all the bulb-dealers give the blooming periods in their lists, it would only take up space unnecessarily to detail them. A special selection of the best for pot work or for forcing would include such varieties as the Duc Van Thols, Couleur de Cardinal, Globe de Rigaut, Keizerskroon, the Pottebakkers, Royal Standard, and Samson, all reliable bloomers where they are properly cultivated.

Double Tulips last a little longer in bloom, but they do not lend themselves so well to the decoration of the garden, and many people do not care for their rather heavy-looking blooms. Good varieties for pots and forcing are Artus, Brutus, Duchess of Parma, Proserpine, Rose tendre, Thomas Moore, and Van der Neer. For bedding there are Cramoisie superbe, La Candeur, Murillo, Rex Rubrorum, and Titian, besides a number more. Variegated leaved Tulips are pretty in beds, even before the blooming time, but they are not much grown in this country.

The "Cottage Garden" Tulips grow yearly in favour, and they deserve it because of their beauty and their general hardiness, which enables the greater number to be permanent border flowers. There are a great many of much beauty, and a brief selection is necessarily incomplete. It includes the curious acuminata, Didieri, elegans, Faerie Queen, flava, Gala Beauty, gesneriana, Golden Beauty, Golden Crown, ixioides, macrospila, maculata, Picotee, retroflexa, sylvestris major, vitellina, and York and Lancaster.

The beautiful species of wild Tulips give much variety, and among the desirable plants may be named Batalini, biflora, clusiana, Greigi, kolpakowskiana, Korolkowi bicolor, Leichtlini, linifolia, ostrowskyana, persica, præcox, Sprengeri, and violacea. Many of these are capital for the rock-garden.

The Parrot Tulips are also showy in the rock-garden or for hanging baskets, where the large, fantastic flowers droop over and look very curious with their strange colouring and laciniated petals. They are rather unreliable bloomers.

The Darwin Tulips are very effective and beautiful flowers. They belong to the breeder class of the florist's Tulips, but are of a strain with more brilliant self-colours than the ordinary breeders. They are good growers, and promise to do well as border flowers.

The English florist's Tulip, while very fascinating in its way, is not of so much value for the garden as the self-coloured forms, and there are a good many details to be followed by those who wish to cultivate it as it deserves. These will be found in Mr Bentley's work, already mentioned. These English Tulips are divided into three classes with rectified or variegated blooms, as well as another, which consists of what are known as "Breeders," which, like the others, have a stainless base, but have not developed the markings of the other classes. Bizarres have a yellow ground and yellow base, of various shades, with orange, scarlet, crimson, black, or brown markings on the ground; Byblœmens have a white base and ground, the latter being marked with black, violet, purple, and lilac to lavender; while the Roses, which have a white base and ground, have the markings of pink, rose, scarlet or crimson.

Zephyranthes

Zephyranthes, or Amaryllis Candida is the only really hardy member of this genus in British gardens which are not specially favoured with a mild climate, and it will seldom prove a permanent success unless planted in dry soil in front of a greenhouse or stove and exposed to the sun. It has beautiful white flowers in autumn, and should be planted about three inches deep in spring.