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CHAPTER XII
HALF-HARDY BULBS

Acidantheras – Albucas – Alstrœmerias – Androstephiums – Besseras – Boussingaultias – Bravoas – Cypellas – Dahlias – Galaxias – Geissorhizas and Hesperanthas

Acidantheras

The only species of Acidanthera which has been introduced hardy enough to be classed with half-hardy bulbs is A. bicolor, a pretty plant with spikes of whitish flowers with the lower segments spotted purple. It may be grown outside in a warm border if treated like a half-hardy Gladiolus, or better, under glass as recommended for the Ixia.

Albucas

Only a few of the Albucas, which come near to the Ornithogalums, deserve cultivation; these can be grown outside in warm districts alone, on a raised bed of rather light soil, in a sunny position, protected in winter by a layer of litter. They are, however, better in the greenhouse or frame. Aurea, yellow; fastigiata, white; and Nelsoni, white, are the best in cultivation. They bloom in summer, and may be planted three inches deep in autumn.

Alstrœmerias

Apart from the hardier Alstrœmerias, which may also advantageously be grown in frames or in cold greenhouses, there are several others which are pleasing occupants of frames and cool greenhouses, from which severe frosts are excluded. The least hardy of all is A. caryophyllæa, which should always have a little heat, and does best in a warm greenhouse or stove. Eminently suitable for the frame or the greenhouse without heat are the charming pelegrina, white or yellow, striped with rose, and with a yellow spot on its segments; and its white variety, alba, a lovely thing. Then there are Errembaultii, a pretty hybrid, white, spotted purple; pulchra, purple, white, and yellow, with red spots, and brasiliensis, with its reddish yellow flowers spotted with brown. At one time these were more grown, and a renewed demand would bring many other species into cultivation. A light rich soil is suitable for all, with plenty of water while growing but very little afterwards.

Androstephiums

These are pretty bulbous plants resembling the Brodiæas, and hardy if planted six or seven inches deep, but better grown in a frame. They like a sunny position and a light soil. The species are breviflorum and violaceum.

Besseras

Few people know the Bessera, which is a pretty little bulbous plant from Mexico, bearing some resemblance to the Scillas, but having bright scarlet or scarlet and white flowers. It grows from one and a half to two feet high, and may be treated similarly to the Babianas. It is one of the many half-hardy bulbs which might be more widely cultivated with advantage.

Boussingaultias

B. baselloides is a rather pretty trailing plant which gives clusters of white flowers in late autumn. In a few districts it is hardy, but it ought usually to have the protection of a frame in winter, or to have its tuberous roots stored in sand until spring, when it may be planted about three inches deep. It likes a rich, but light soil.

Bravoas

Bravoa geminiflora, the only one of the three species in cultivation, is hardy in warm places in the south, but for most gardens its proper treatment is that of a frame bulb. It has beautiful orange-red, drooping flowers in July, on stems from one and a half to two feet high. It likes a light, sandy soil, and may be planted about three inches deep in autumn.

Cypellas

These are pretty plants allied to the Iris, and well suited for growing in pots in the greenhouse as well as for frame cultivation. They may also be planted out in spring, and lifted in autumn and potted. They like a light, sandy soil, and may be planted two inches deep in pots, or three inches if in a frame. In the latter it is well to give them a little covering in frosty weather. They may be raised from seeds or increased by offsets. Cypellas grow from one to three feet high. The most desirable are Herberti, yellow; peruviana, yellow, spotted red-brown; and plumbea (syn. Pohlia platensis), lead-coloured, with a tinge of yellow in the centre.

Dahlias

The Dahlia is too extensive a subject to permit of its being fully considered in the limits of this work, but, without entering upon particulars regarding the various sections and varieties of the flower, it may be helpful to give a few broad cultural details for the benefit of those who grow the flower to a limited extent. It is a plant which must have generous treatment, and to give this it is essential that the ground should be deeply prepared by digging, and thoroughly manured with well-decayed manure. The plants may be put out as soon as danger from severe frost is past, and they should be allowed plenty of room. For exhibition purposes from five to six feet apart will be found a suitable distance. The plants should be staked immediately, and covered at nights when there is a prospect of a cold night occurring. Pots filled with moss or hay may be placed on the top of the stakes and examined regularly for earwigs. When the plants begin to make growth, the soil ought to be well mulched with half-rotted manure. Watering should never be neglected, and as the plants grow they must be properly tied to the stakes. Thinning and disbudding are necessary to secure the largest possible blooms for exhibition flowers. These may also require to be shaded and protected from bad weather. When the plants are destroyed by frost in autumn, they may be cut down to within six inches of the surface of the soil, and, after leaving them in the ground for a few days, lifted and stored out of the reach of frost. Dahlias are propagated by seeds, division of the tubers, and by cuttings, the two last being the only way of propagating named varieties. Seeds are sown in pans or pots in March under glass. When the young plants can be handled, prick them out into small pots and grow under glass until large enough to plant out in the beds. Old tubers may be divided if a portion of the crown with an eye or bud is attached to each piece. These must be put into small pots and grown on for a short time. Cuttings are easily struck from February to August. In spring the old tubers are placed in heat with the crowns above the soil, and the shoots taken off when about three inches long, and struck in heat in single pots of light soil. Cuttings taken off in summer and rooted in small pots, form good "pot roots" for planting out in spring.

Galaxias

Few people grow these pretty little bulbous plants, which do well in a frame with some protection in winter, although, perhaps, even better in pots in a cool greenhouse. They bloom in May, the clusters of flowers being almost stemless. Graminea has yellow flowers, and the other species, ovata, has purple-violet blooms. They belong to the Irids. A sandy peat is the soil they prefer.

Geissorhizas and Hesperanthas

These are closely related to each other, and require practically the same cultural treatment. The Geissorhiza is a pretty little plant, but both it and the Hesperantha seem a little more tender than the Ixia and do best with greenhouse treatment. They may be potted and grown in the way recommended for Ixias under glass. Both have loose spikes of flowers. They bloom in May or June.

Practically the only Geissorhiza grown in Britain is G. rochensis, a charming thing, with Tyrian blue flowers with crimson blotches, but alba, white; and violacea, light blue, are also procurable; while a demand for them would probably bring out humilis, yellow; purpureolutea, purple-black and yellow; secunda, red, rose, and white, with a number of others from South Africa.

The Hesperanthas are even less grown, but one may meet with graminea and pumila, white, and pilosa, rose, out of the twenty-six or so species known. Their drawback is that they flower in the evening.

CHAPTER XIII
HALF-HARDY BULBS

Gladioli – Ixias – Sparaxises – Babianas – Morphixias – Tritonias

Gladioli

Although there are some districts in which the greater number of the Gladioli may be grown as hardy bulbs and left in the same position for years without removal, in the vast majority of British gardens they are more satisfactorily treated as half-hardy, and are lifted and replanted annually. They are less liable to disease, and less apt to be injured by frost in severe winters. Those, however, who wish to establish them permanently, will do well to plant rather deeper than is usually recommended – say, eight inches from the crowns to the surface of the soil.

The general cultivation of Gladioli is very simple. They may be grown well in any good loam, enriched in autumn by a supply of properly rotted animal manure being dug in deeply. In the case of the pretty early-flowering Gladioli, which are often satisfactory when permanently planted, they are put into the ground in late autumn, and protected with a layer of two inches of dry litter or cocoa-nut fibre. The greater number of the species, like the exquisite hybrid Gladioli, may be planted in April or early May. The corms should be about six inches deep, and are best planted by means of a trowel to form the holes, unless the soil has become too solid, in which case it ought to be forked over before planting the corms. For exhibition they may be planted about six inches apart, but for border decoration they look well in groups of three or five at a closer distance. Many charming effects may also be produced by planting Gladioli in beds, with a groundwork formed by a low plant of contrasting or harmonising colours. Other good effects may also be made by arranging them with other tall flowers. Gladioli should be staked early, and it is desirable to put in sticks when the corms are planted, unless they are in a position where the long stakes will look unsightly. In this case short sticks may be placed where the proper stakes are afterwards to go, so as to avoid injuring the corms when inserting these. They should be timeously secured with roffia or other soft material. Spikes of bloom intended for exhibition ought to be shaded and protected from the weather by a glass fronted box, with the lower portion of the glass shaded by whitening or canvas as the lower blooms open. When the leaves become yellow the corms may be lifted and, after drying slightly in a cool airy place, be stored free from frost until planting time.

The leading section of Gladioli is that formed by the gandavensis varieties, charming hybrids, which through a long period have been constantly improved until their almost perfect flowers have been produced. Even the best of the present day are being gradually superseded by novelties, and a selection of a few would only mislead. Named varieties procured from reliable firms will all give satisfaction, and seedlings of great beauty can be bought at a moderate price, and will often give flowers suitable even for exhibition. The scarlet G. brenchleyensis is indispensable for garden decoration.

The Lemoinei section, from G. purpureo-auratus and gandavensis varieties, is also very important, though it is not so perfect in form as the gandavensis flower. These Lemoinei varieties are characterised by fine blotches on some of the segments. They are slightly hardier than the preceding. These are still being much improved.

The nanceianus section comprises a number of very showy flowers, particularly suited for garden decoration or for cutting for large vases. The plants are tall, and the blooms are of great size. The Childsii varieties are also very effective plants in the garden, and are of fine colours. Several new hybrids are at present in course of improvement and will, in time, add much to the beauty of our gardens.

The species are not much grown, but there will be found among them a number of very pretty plants, which only await a demand to be readily obtainable. I have only space to refer to such as alatus, cardinalis, galeatus, hirsutus, dracocephalus, præcox, ringens, Saundersii, psittacinus, purpureo-auratus, and tristis, as all being interesting and not devoid of beauty of their own.

The hybrid Gladioli, as well as the species, make good pot plants which may be treated in a similar way to such bulbs as Hyacinths. Named varieties are propagated by offsets, by division of the corms, each portion having an eye attached, and by "spawn," the cormlets at the base of the corms which are grown on until they reach flowering size. Gladioli are also raised from seeds, sown in pans, or in the open ground in spring.

Ixias, Sparaxises, Babianas, Morphixias, and Tritonias

For convenience of treatment, these pretty and useful bulbs may well be grouped together. They are possessed of brilliant colouring, and few things are prettier or attract more attention than beds of these flowers. They are also lovely pot plants, and can be well grown in the cool greenhouse or conservatory. In some places they are hardy and may be left without much attention, but, as a general rule, they need the little care now recommended to bring them to perfection. For their cultivation, a bed with a south aspect, of rich, light loam, raised six inches above the level of the garden, is to be preferred, special care being taken that the drainage is perfect. The bulbs should be planted from October to January, at a depth of from three to four inches, and about three inches apart. If the foliage does not appear until spring, a little dry litter is all the protection required, but should it pierce through the soil earlier, a mat or two may be placed over the bed in frosty weather. When the foliage dies down after flowering, the bulbs may be lifted and dried off. For pot work, from five to six bulbs are enough for a five-inch pot, and loam, leaf-mould, and silver sand form a good compost. The best time to plant in pots is from September to December, and the soil should be slightly moist, but not so wet as to be adhesive. After making the compost firm about the bulbs, place the pots, plunged in cocoa-fibre or ashes, in a cold frame until the plants appear, when water may be given very moderately, and the lights kept off in all favourable weather. When the plants have made some growth, remove the pots to the greenhouse or conservatory, keeping them near the glass and giving a sufficiency of water.

The Ixia, or African Corn Lily, is a charming plant, with long racemes of brilliantly coloured flowers, whose dark centres add much to their beauty. Mixed varieties can be bought very cheaply, and will give many beautiful flowers. Bulb dealers also offer named collections at moderate prices. Azurea, blue; Beauty of Norfolk, yellow; Conqueror, yellow; crateroides, bright scarlet, and a capital thing; Donnatello, scarlet; erubescens major, rose-carmine; Excelsior, crimson-scarlet; magnificum, yellow; nitens, magenta; Queen of Roses, rose; viridiflora, a charming thing, with sea-green black-centred flowers; and White Queen, pure white, with crimson centre, are all desirable. Morphixias are now included by botanists with the Ixia. They bloom rather later. The varieties of paniculata should be grown. Sparaxises are equally beautiful, but are of dwarfer habit. Among the most useful is S. tricolor, which has scarlet flowers with a yellow centre. The others are not so much grown under name as formerly, as mixed varieties are cheaper, and give good flowers. Fire King is bright with its scarlet and black flowers, with a yellow centre, and Angelique, white; Garibaldi, crimson; Lady Carey, white, blotched purple; maculata, white, purple, and primrose; Queen Victoria, white, yellow, and black, are all good.

Babianas are also very beautiful with their dwarf habit, plaited hirsute leaves, and their self-coloured or strongly contrasted flowers. Apart from the species, of which there are upwards of twenty, there are a number of named varieties. Atro-cyanea, purple-blue and white; and rubro-cyanea, blue and crimson, are both varieties of B. stricta. Others worth growing are: – Attraction, blue; General Scott, lavender; Hellas, yellow; Julia, white and blue; speciosa, mauve; and villosa, blue. The plant called S. pulcherrima is Dierama pulcherrimum, which is named among hardy bulbs.

The Tritonias now include Montbretia Pottsii, but the plants, forms of T. crocata, generally known in gardens by the former name, more resemble the Sparaxis in their habit than the popular Montbretia of modern times. They are grown like the Ixia, but are rather more tender, and do best if kept indoors in winter. They bloom later than the Sparaxis, and differ in their leading colours, these being buff, rose, salmon, and orange. Good forms and varieties are amœna, yellow; Bella, blush; crocata, bright orange; elegans, orange-cerise; Eleonore, buff; and speciosa, orange-scarlet. Mixed varieties can be bought cheaply.

CHAPTER XIV
HALF-HARDY BULBS

Ixiolirions – Moræas – Ornithogalums – Oxalises – Phædranassas – Pancratiums – Tigridias – Zephyranthes – Cooperias

Ixiolirions

Few people seem to grow the Ixiolirions, which are pretty summer blooming bulbs with umbels of lilac or blue flowers on stems about a foot high. This is unfortunate, as they are of pleasing appearance, though it is to be regretted that they are among those troublesome bulbs which are almost hardy, yet not absolutely to be depended upon in our climate. If planted in the open, this ought to be done in spring, and the bulbs lifted in autumn, and stored in dry sand, but it is more satisfactory to grow them in a frame or cool greenhouse in pots of loam, leaf-soil, and sand. There are two species – montanum and kolpakowskianum, the latter having a smaller bulb and shorter segments. The variety tataricum is considered a separate species by some botanists.

Moræas

Moræas are charming plants resembling the Irises, and are of bright colours, and generally very fragrant. They should either be grown in a frame with some winter protection, or in a cool greenhouse or conservatory planted out in rather sandy soil or in pots. Out of some sixty species, there are few not worth growing, but corms of only a limited number are purchasable in the ordinary course, and the best of these are named as a guide. They are often found about six inches high, but frequently grow much taller. Edulis has bluish-white flowers; iridioides, white, spotted yellow; papilionacea, pale-blue, spotted dark-blue; spathacea (syn. Dietes Huttoni), yellow; and tricuspis, greyish yellow and brown. Robinsoniana, also called Iris robinsoniana, needs a greenhouse, and has white flowers and handsome leaves with the habit of Phormium tenax. The genus now includes the Vieusseuxias and Dietes, which are sub-genera.

Ornithogalums

It is singular that the half-hardy Ornithogalums are so little grown, as they are very easily managed in a frame or unheated greenhouse, and will even do in a warm border in the south. They like a light soil and a sunny position, and to be well ripened after flowering. The prettiest of the half-hardy species are O. aureum, yellow; O. arabicum, white with almost black centres, a very effective plant; and the pure white O. revolutum They may be planted about three inches deep.

Oxalises

The tender Oxalises or Wood-Sorrels, are deserving of more attention from those who have sunny frames or unheated greenhouses, or even a sunny window, where these flowers can open, for all are sun-lovers. They like a light, rather sandy soil and may be planted in autumn or early spring about two inches deep. They are too numerous to detail, but I may name the following as all worth growing, although the list might be considerably extended. Arenaria, violet-purple; articulata, mauve; Barrelieri, yellow; elegans, purple; hirta, red; valdiviensis, yellow; variabilis, white or red; and versicolor, white and red. Those named among the hardy bulbs can also be grown under glass.

Phædranassas

Although generally grown as greenhouse bulbs, the Phædranassas, or Queen Lilies, may be grown in mild districts as frame bulbs, by cultivating them in rather heavy soil, keeping them as dry as possible in winter, and covering the glass of the frame with some canvas or a mat. Some succeed with them in the open, but they there need a position below a south wall and to have some protection in times of severe frost. They are also suitable plants for the greenhouse, where they can be grown in pots and rested in winter. They have umbels of pretty, reflexed flowers, and grow about one and a half feet high. The most suitable for frame cultivation are chloracea, yellow, and sweet-scented; schizantha, vermilion, yellow, and green; and ventricosa, yellow. They may be planted in spring about five inches deep in a frame, or six inches if in the open.

Pancratiums

Although the two Pancratiums named below are hardy in the milder parts of these islands, it is more prudent to treat them as plants which need frame cultivation throughout the greater portion of Britain. A warm, sunny border under a south wall is the place for them in the open garden, and in frames it is desirable to give them a similar position. They should be planted with the neck about a foot deep in the open and two or three inches less when in a frame. They belong to the Amaryllis family and have charming white flowers. The hardiest and most easily grown is P. illyricum, but P. maritimun has finer flowers. They like a light soil, and plenty of water while in growth.

Tigridias

Tigridias are among the most brilliant of summer bulbous plants, but though they have been established in some southern gardens, they are not generally hardy in Britain. The greater number in cultivation are varieties of T. Pavonia (syn. grandiflora) and these are very beautiful, their only fault being the short time the flowers last. The type has scarlet petals and a yellow, crimson-spotted cup, but there are a number of varieties ranging from white, through almost rose to lilac, pale yellow and orange yellow. Immaculata alba, Immaculata lutea, and the new "Nankin" are among the latest introduced. Van Houttei (Hydrotænia Van Houttei) has brown and yellow flowers and is rather more delicate, and should have a frame or greenhouse. Violacea and Pringlei should have similar treatment. All may be potted and grown in a greenhouse if desired. Plant in April or May.

Zephyranthes

Reference has already been made to Z. Candida among hardy bulbs. A few others may now be mentioned for frame or cold greenhouse cultivation. These are strangely neglected by amateurs, as their pretty crocus-like flowers are exquisitely beautiful when open. Generally speaking, I should recommend their being grown in pots in the greenhouse, where they can have a sunny position near the glass. The best of those known for the frame or cold greenhouse are Andersoni, which grows about four inches high, and has yellow or coppery flowers about May; Atamasco, white, tinted pink, grows about nine inches high, and blooms about the same time; carinata, rose, about one foot high, and flowering in May; gracilifolia, about a foot and a half high and blooming about January; rosea, six inches high and flowering in May; and versicolor, rose and white, about six inches high. These Zephyranthes like a turfy loam with a little sand and well decayed manure or peat. They are propagated by offsets and should be repotted occasionally. The night-blooming Cooperias require similar cultivation.