Kitabı oku: «Granny by Pushi around in Australia», sayfa 3
Montezuma hits me
18.01.2013: Wilmington – Orroorroo: 54 km
Today oh yes, my speedometer functions again. It also does not stand the heat. Anyway it is not reasonable to cycle in 50 ° C with a high loaded, heavy bicycle by this scorching sun.
Suddenly Montezumas revenge meets me. And no toilet is far and wide! Which disaster! From sleeping the speech can not be at this night. The heat here amasses lets flow my sweat in streams. I look at this as a slimness cure and roll unilaterally to the other side. At 4.30 pm my alarm clock rings.
When I step outside, I am not astonished badly: Yesterday the cross of the south stood still clear at the black night sky. And today early? Clouds race along the sky. The weather has overturned, just as it was written by my friends in facebook. But I did not trust the peace. But it is right! To Orroorroo today I can cycle completely safely. There’s a gale blowing.
Again back in my accommodation, the horizon changes the colour in bright yellow. All packed and the bicycle with the panniers pushed out, I start.
Rain droplets moisten my red panniers. Therefore, I dress me in my pink wind blouse. If it should be still properly raining, the wind blouse would be enough; since there are 23 ° C. Everything would dry fast again from the storm.
Between the dark and brighter clouds which race along at the sky, appears light blue sky. Soon the sun will also look through them. But, nevertheless, I have problems with the storm. He presses from the right substantially against my panniers. From home I know that I do not become fallen if I go in possibly high speed. The street is good. It is not damaged by frost. It becomes brighter and brighter. But there is not a sunrise as usual on account of the quite thick cloud cover. At 6.30 am I start because only then it is getting light.
How long will I need for this day, if the storm gets me later still from the front? But I think positively and recite to me my biblical saying: Be not afraid. Since see, I am all days up with you till the worlds end.
Thus I step substantially in the pedals. In this time still no car goes. The street belongs to me only. It exists of very coarse material which became, however, already flat from the cars. On the way I insert a break and eat from my sweet biscuits and drink a lot of water. On this resting place many rose cockatoos are sitting in the trees and shriek. And I roll further.
When a hotel is announced at the roadside, announces itself to me the normal hunger. But what stands here as a hotel, can be called only a ruin. However, there is a door at which I can ring to buy something. I do this. But nobody opens it. Thus I look exactly through the grid door and see to the left a rose cockatoo sitting on an armchair armrest. Thus I take the remaining distance under the wheels.
Once the storm would have almost upset me with my bicycle. Luckily I could still come fast enough from the click pedals and jump off. Sand storms sweep in front of me over the street. Sheep graze sometimes on the left, sometimes on the right on the earthy fields.
And then I reach already after 50 instead of 56 km Orroorroo. Pleasantly! Quite at the beginning I find the caravan park there and am cleared up very in detail about my future distance guidance in the Riverland by the owner. She owns good maps and charts for her guests. She also gives me a mosquito spray with the help of which the bothering flies disappear. She leads me to the best place for my tent where it stands later in the shade.
On account of my sleeping lack I lie down in my tent and fall right away asleep. On the way back from the shower to my tent I see a caravan driver with his wife coming out of their car and smiling to me. They greet me immediately with the statement: „You are from Germany and cycle here in Australia. Would you like to come with us to our caravan? We would like to invite you to have warm dinner.“
„But I am quite full and stand in the pajama here. My eyes already close of tiredness. Many thanks for your invitation. Immediately I must go to bed to get up tomorrow very early and continue my ride.“
We still talk about my tour and his in England graduated two big walking tours, first from coast to coast crosswise and then from John O'Groats in Scotland to Land's End. He shows me his taut calves. Yes, he is a sport man. I congratulate him and say goodbye.
While I roll me just so nicely comfortably into my small sleeping-bag, outside it begins to rain. The storm has completely decreased. Tomorrow he also may do this please.
19.01.2013: Orroorro – Jamestown: 70 km
At 4.00 am in the morning it is cold in the tent and outdoors still even more. The weather has totally overturned. This is, because I sent the heat by email home. I know this already from former. Outdoors it is floor-dark. And because my panniers stand up ready packed in the tent without the washing bag, I lie down once again on my ear. Here it is getting light since 6.00 am.
To my joy I find out that the storm has decreased. Well for me. The sky has thinned out. Far away many smaller clouds swim darkly at the light blue firmament. All people still sleep.
When I leave the caravan park, a man comes calling behind me on the street. He holds his toothbrush still in the hand and asks me: „In which direction would you like to go?“
„To Jamestown“, I give to the answer.
„Yes, to there I also want to go with my caravan and will overtake you later.“
Smiling we say goodbye. Then I roll in the morning. It cycles well; since, finally, substantially I have got a good night's sleep.
Slowly there arises the wind which becomes apparent stronger and stronger to me and my bicycle. My street to Jamestown cuts through many wheat fields. Later I see on both sides earthy fields on which sheep graze. As soon as they note me, they race away.
Twice I insert a rest in the street, may not sit down, however, because to the side of the street there are a lot of ants. I had to ascertain this unpleasantly on my journey of Ceduna to Wirrula when I sat down simple-minded in the shade of a Mallee-Tree to rest. Nevertheless, there I had really sat down in an ant-hill! Well, this happens to me only once, I hope.
To the right hand before me a kangaroo hops along the fence, crosses the street and continues his escape from me in other jumps. Later I see it again on the right side. Further it can not make way on account of the fences on both sides of the big street. A fox soon laces in front of me over the street from the right to the left, later from the left to the right.
And completely a lot much later there lies a knockeded down and killed fox on the big street. Such a splendid, healthy animal! I am properly sorry for him, certainly because he could not further flee on account of the fences. Whether has he still to supply baby animals under construction? Who feeds them now?
After one more rest, because the storm strongly comes from the front, I interrupt my tour to Jamestown once again because on the right at an old house stands a sign "Winery". A man rises there from a pickup truck, lets down his ugly, gray spotted dog and opens the door. I hope to be able to eat here something. He shows me in, however, but he must work even outdoor of the house. He comes from Adelaide and has in the near his cows. I may sit down inside. This building is probably used only by men as a meeting place for parties I think.
I go further to the rear space. There stands an ancient piano and besides an entire percussion arrangement. I take a photo of everything and turn to the exit. In this manner I enter once again the first room which I have not perceived at all so properly with the entry.
Here stand four softy sofas and on a board witty, even made figures from metal canes. But what shoots „the bird“ and what allows me no more to wait for the landlord, but flee from here, this is besides the upper skull of a death's-head. Besides, the cut-off man's head of Rottnest Island occurs to me. No, this is too much for me! Outdoors I catch me my bicycle and flee.
At noon I reach the small town Jamestown. On the caravan park I receive a pitch for my tent which lies, however, still totally in the hot sunshine. If the sun has walked further around, I set up my tent in the evening; since I am very tired and long for my restful and deserving sleep. Five guinea fowls from Africa peck the vermin from the lawn which is just sprayed.
About 6.00 pm the sun has walked around and leaves enough shade on the very much soft and big lawn. Finally, I can set up my tent and go in it to bed. It is still warm. Therefore, I am only in my pajama.
20.01.2013: Jamestown – Burra: 73 km
At night I awake of the cold. My thermometer registers only 10 ° C. For this my soft, yellow and warm AUSTRALIA Fleece jacket purposes and already lies beside my sleeping-bag. Thus I lie down again. But then I awake again because my thighs freeze in my small sleeping bag. I cover that with my small fleece towel. Over the end of my sleeping bag I push my big pocket. Blessedly I fall asleep again and awake at 4.00 am in the early morning.
Yes, 10 ° C outdoors. Which clothes today? Luckily I have not sent completely the bicycle clothes for cold days, nevertheless, to Townsville. I start in the cold morning. The sky is cloudless. Yesterday my landlord told me that it should become today to 30 ° C. With it I can live.
On a very quiet street I roll gently uphill in the direction of Hallett. Today it goes on the relatively lowest mountain distance on the other side of the mountain range. First these become 16 km against the stronger and stronger growing headwind. Then I may race delightfully downhill and there 8 km along in the wide valley. Then it goes, however, only 8 km uphill. From there on top I look down in another valley and towards at the next mountain hurdle. When I cycle up there, I must descend really still and the rest uphill. But it has been worthwhile.
To recover me a little, here I insert a small break. Then I roll like the wind delightfully down and with some tailwind on and on. I reach Burra and search the caravan park.
But it is not there where it ordinarily lies, namely at the beginning of the town. Tomorrow it should become hot again, but the level of the distance totally flat. Which luck!
At the registration I receive a pitch which glows at the moment still in the hot sunshine. About evening the sun in the sky should have turned so far that it lies in shade. And, nevertheless, I am so very tired!
Now I wait at the crying of the cockatoos for the fact that the sun has disappeared far enough behind the big trees that I can build up my tent in the shade and go to bed straight away. And, nevertheless, I am so very tired! And, nevertheless, tomorrow I have birthday – quite alone in the far!
My birthday away from home
21.01.2013: Burra – Morgan: 90 km
At night I awake again by the cold, dress me more warmly and go then on sleeping, however, till 4.40 am. Outdoors it is getting light only at 6.00 am. Also only then the cockatoos and black Australian magpies begin her loud morning concert.
And also if the cockatoos fly in crowds about the place screamingly to and fro, I am always surprised that they produce no collision in the winds.
Now I can diminish my tent already much faster without wearing out myself. Between 6.30 and 7.00 am I leave as a rule my caravan park and start into the rising sun to my still approaching adventures.
But after the fall which did it before Wirrula the Lowrider suspension has bent a little bit to the right. But the front wheel can still roll in between without difficulties. I hope it will stay!
From my caravan park I must drive 2.5 km back again up to the crossroad to Morgan. But a level and longer gradient joins this again. If nothing more puts out to me. My legs have gained strength. In addition, my bicycle owns a miraculous "swimming ring" in the middle in front.
After both first crossings of my today's passes it goes down in a delightfully wide valley. I already knew about it and am glad about it. Now I roll with speed of 28-35 km/h along. It is a being intoxicating feeling! Thus I had fancied for every day. But to have rather such a day than nobody.
It's sunny from the blue sky cheering up down and would like to accompany me on my today's tour in the Riverland. On both sides there grows the Bluebush which the sheep eat here. This Bluebush maybe grows up to a meter and shines silvery-light blue. I come long time through these areas. All together seven kangaroos, six emus and a fox jump there within sight.
Strong sights! Kangaroos of Australia are the animals which I search here and would like to see unconditional! Here on this endless and almost extinct distance they are present. Unfortunately, three new also from cars killed kanguroos lie aside of the street, also one fox and what fascinates me mostly, a small owl.
From his wing feathers I pull out for me on both sides in each case four swing feathers with the big, white spot. They may carry me ideally along the highways. I present myself to be now a big owl which spreads out its wonderful wings and flies along the highway.
After total 90 km I reach by ferry Morgan my today's caravan park whose camp sites lie in the roasting sunshine.
Today is my birthday. My Klaus-Otto, my kids and many friends have congratulated me by computer. Indeed, here thus I am physically alone, but connected, however, by computer with my friends. This is a very pleasant and heart-refreshing feeling. Many thanks.
Now it becomes time to set up my tent and push my bicycle on the River shore where completely broad and wonderfully soft, thick and springy lawn stripes are available for the tents. The sun lights up the Murray-River and with him the ferry which swims lastingly from a river side to the other in strong baggage trains. Nearby young people play. In the river the children who are protected by an adult have a bath.
When I have built up my tent, finally, of course also my base and my thin sleeping bag stretched out, suddenly it has been getting dark outdoors. What luck that I went down early enough.
The young people have also disappeared in their sleeping holes.
In the Murray River land
22.01.2013: Morgan – Waikerie: 38 km
Well slept I awake only at 6.00 am. Outdoors there laughs the bird Laughing Hans. Today I would like to cycle only to Waikerie, because it is too hot for the long distance from here to Renmark. It could become hot again. Only at 8.00 am I leave the not guarded camping site below here and take position for the ferry.
The short distance down onto the ferry is very steep. 20 m before I begin to cycle very slow. It works good. I am the onliest guest on the ferry. The ferryman wishes me a save tour, when I pass him and push my bicycle up the small hill at the riverside.
No sign stands in the road. I believe that I am here anyhow wrong. But to me was told that I shall continue my ride on this side. Again the morning sun shines from the cloudless sky. Thus I cycle further with a nasty feeling. Ordinarily I should have gone eastwards. However, by the shade of the trees I see that I move westwards. On my map I can recognize a small bend. Thus it goes on.
And really, after a long, very wavy journey I see the small sign Waikerie. I am correct on tour. If I come there very early, I will consider if I can cycle further on.
In the beginning I cross vacant and wild scenery, later I find wine plantations. This looks very good here! But if I remember of South Tirol in Italia and their wine plantations, these vineyard owners have no notion of the fact that the wild desires with many sheets must be cut off, so that the strength goes only to the grapes and the sun to the berries. The wine plantations pile up. Those of which I take a photo are red bunches of grapes. Later the wine plantations remove in orange and then grapefruit plantations.
Now I reach the Murray River again and see him quite deeply on the bottom to the left flowing through wooded area. The Murray River is the lifeline for whole South Australia. All people and animals here are dependent on it.
However, the plantations are not close to each other, but are interrupted by wild areas.
Suddenly I discover by the first tree row some young people and an adult who do something and talk. This is interesting for me. I turn round, push my bicycle on the other side of the street, put it down there, take my camera, go to them and ask: „May I take photos here?“
„Yes, you may do it. Where are you from?“
„From Germany.“
On it the adult asks in the young round: „Who of you is from Germany?“
These are three persons: a young girl and two young men. All persons here clean freshly garlic onions from the roots and the dirty external cover.
First I go to the girl who smiles friendly and inviting at me. We both talk excellently in German. I take a photo of her and promise to send this photo to her parents. Likewise I do it with the both diligent young men.
The men tell me, that they are working here since the last year and wish to earn much money, to move as tourists the last weeks through Australia. But they earn so very few money. All will go away by paying for their room and meals.
I comfort them and mean: „Soon the grapefruits and the wine are ripe with which you can earn much more money.“
They smile obsessedly. They came from Germany to Sydney, from where the work successively is assigned to them. But they will hold out certainly! Thus I cycle further.
In a service station I interrupt my journey. I have a longing for ice-cold drinking chocolate. With the businessman's woman and her granddaughter I come to the conversation, because I carry my bicycle helmet on the head. That what I am telling to them about my tour here in Australia is very interesting for both ladies.
From the 70-years-old lady the grandparents came from Germany. Unfortunately, I forget to ask them where they lived there and why they have emigrated at that time. These both ladies can neither speak German nor understand it.
And when I tell them about the cut-off head which one people found on the beach of Rottnest Island, they tell me that it was a 10-year-old girl who found this head in a bag. Later one found out that this man was full of drugs. This lady does not know any more. Thus I leave this gas station and have to cycle only 10 km to Waikerie. Every now and then I see to my left hand on the bottom the Murray River.
I still create these last kilometers and cycle on a very nice caravan park which unfortunately is more expensive, also $ 10 more than the others. I received under high trees a grass place and have put up my tent immediately. Now I am answering all my birthday congratulations at a board in the laundry and write.
At the foreign workers in the backpacker hostel
23.01.2013: Waikerie – Renmark: 90 km
In the middle of the night I awake again from the cold. This time I do not become warm again. At 5.00 am I get up tiredly, roll up my base and find out that my sleeping-bag is sweated in the area of my feet. To be protected against the moving cold wind I had put the end of my sleeping bag into a pocket. Therefore my feet became wet. Thus I put down it outdoors on my bicycle in such a way that the wind can dry it.
Yesterday under the board this spider already hung. Whether it is toxic, I do not know. It hangs still expectantly under its net and waits for new food. I do a big curve around this board. From now all boards or benches are suspicious to me. Everywhere such a little animal can lurk. But I will still get used to it. Nevertheless, the people here also live with it – why I not also?
Drawn with new clothes completely, I return to my tent and pack everything on my bicycle. And when I want to lay the round, blue cool box on my porter, occurs to me that I cotransport 2 l of water in it still since Perth. Why, actually? Nevertheless, the water was intended for the Nullarbor. And, nevertheless, this area lies, fortunately, already behind me.
And over the day I drink at most 1 ½ l. Why do I still struggle under a load, actually, of it? I get out the water bag and water with it a tree. Unusual easily the round, blue cool box can be laid on my porter. Now I will put in it all my food. I then I can get at this better in the breaks.
Thus I take the street to Renmark under my wheels with the beaming morning sun and 16 ° C. The street is quite wavy. But on account of my baggage relief I can come uphill pleasantly easily. Pulling the bicycle helmet deeply in front in the forehead, the sun does not blind me. It curls up excellently. Waikerie is surrounded by endless wine plantations. I stop again to have a look at the grapes. Deep-blue! I take a photo of them and go on. Later I stop again to see whether here hang yellow grapes. No, also deep-blue. I nibble a small berry of it. It melts as sweet as sugar and juicy on my tongue! A whole grape walks in my pannier for the evening. Without bad conscience on account of many grapes which hang there on every wine plant I cycle happily further.
In a place I find a shop, in which tires are sold. This reminds me of my brother Helmut, who was the master by profession of cars. Therefore, I know that here intelligent and vigorous men exist. I stop and push my bicycle in the big foyer.
A man sits in his open office and looks completely surprised at me who stands with my bicycle helmet on the head and the loaded bicycle in the hall. He comes with expression to me. And then I explain him my bad luck and show him my lowrider suspension which is twisted to the right in the front wheel. Only 1 cm still exists between my traversing wheel and the metal curve.
Quickly I take the small panniers and the handlebar bag from the bicycle and leave to him my bicycle. He does not need long to know what is to be done against it. Immediately he pushes the bicycle in the next hall in which his colleague is occupied with a big trucker wheel, asks him to come, to knee down in such a way that the front wheel is got caught tightly between his knees and turns on top my handlebar.
And suddenly my lowrider suspension sits again properly!!!! A miracle!!! I illuminate both men and thank them. For them it was only one small change in their work, and they have helped me with pleasure. From now I can step on again with the best knowledge and conscience fully in the pedals without being afraid that sometime suddenly the wheel is blocked by the lowrider suspension. A great feeling!
After some time I am pointed out to a good photo possibility. Quite expectantly I cycle further and search it. It is the Murray River who flows under one and later along another bridge. I lean my bicycle against the bridge at the railing, walk at the balustrade and perpetuate this legendary river in my camera. On a side an at least 20 m high sienna-red cliff wall rises. Dead trees like from an avenue stand on the other side of the bridge in the water.
Thus I further roll on. Predominantly at least on one side vines are to be seen. The other side is covered either with wild, untouched nature or shows stubble fields.
In this manner the road trains do not come to conflicts and can simply go straight ahead. However, every now and then it is honked before. Thus I cycle against Renmark.
Keeping a lookout after a caravan park, I penetrate on and on into this town known for the Murray River. But I do not want to go on the first caravan park because he lies in the interior. I inquire in a service station whether there is here still the second caravan park. Yes, there it is. In addition I should go on. Beyond the place he is on the river.
When I reach it and announce myself, I should pay per night $ 39. And in this place I wanted to spend two nights! This exceeds my budget. Thus I turn round and would like to look around for a backpacker hotel. Yes, there should be two. I find the first one. It is unoccupied. I follow the tip after the second and find it actual. First it is asked on the phone: „You are actual 75 years?“
„Yes, this is correct. I am on the move by bicycle here in Australia.“
„You can come.“
All kinds of young people populate it. A bed is assigned to me in a 4-bed room. Both girls, both from Korea, remove their things of both empty beds for me. But I still leave all baggage outdoors on my bicycle, take only my small notebook and sit down in the day room to answer my correspondence.
Here I read that mine yesterday from Gudrun in Waikerie taken up video stands already in facebook and was also already seen by some. Unfortunately, my English speaking friends can understand nothing of it. With the next time I must have immediately at hand the translation.
A part of the youngsters just present here have gone by car into the town for shopping. I was also asked to join them. But I did my sport today. Because I booked for two nights, tomorrow I can sleep long. Tomorrow I would like to look at the harbour and at the paddle wheelers they usual shall be here. From them I wish to take photos.
24.01.2013: Rest day in Renmark: 0 km
Now I buy for me this small rolled up medium blue fleece cover with the Australian flag on it.
On the way I had taken a photo of three young Germans at the work and had promised to send this photo home to their parents. Thus I lack a photo shop in which I receive the photos from my photo chip. Yes, there is this shop also in BIG W. On the back of the photos I write the address and besides to the parents small news that it goes well to them. On the postcards come stamps and fly to Germany.
The way to the post is long. It lies at the river loop. The sun burns pitilessly down. But I carry a hat with wide brim. Beside the post I have a look at the roses becoming a little bit withered. Just the house owner comes out of the door. I ask him whether these roses are his which smell so delightfully.
“Yes", he answers. „This time, unfortunately, we have the hottest summer as long as I can think back. The sun burns so much on the roses that the petals begin from the outside to roll inside.“
Arriving again at my accommodation, I find again there the young people who spend the night here. One of them comes from Hannover, the only German here. He tells me: „This backpacker hotel is inhabited, actually, only by the young workers from all over the world. In the morning we are fetched, brought to our job and driven back afterwards again. I am already since the beginning of August, 2012 here and have saved money. Soon I want to have a look first of all at Australia. And if the money should be to an end, I want to enter again into the working process. Thus everybody makes it here.“
While I sit here and write, the television runs before some of the young people who consume her self-made food and watch, besides, the sketches in the TV program.
Tomorrow it should go further in the direction of Mildura. Because the distance is for one day too long for me, I will start and roll to the middle of the distance to the camping site which is marked in the map and sleep there. Water should exist.
25.01.2013: Renmark – Lake Cullulleraine: 87 km
At 5.00 am I stand it no more in the bed. Not to wake up both girls from Korea, I get up quite carefully and disappear in the bathroom.
In the kitchen I come to the conversation with a young Dutchman, Nick, who stays every year in May with the KIEL WEEK in Germany as a Skipper of a traditional sailing boat in Kiel. He speaks perfectly German. I ask him if he stays next year again in Kiel to announce himself please to me.
A young Chinese, Mason, from Hong Kong, wishes me a good journey with my bicycle. Also the young Englishman with the golden hair says quite nicely farewell to me and wishes me a successful bicycle tour here in Australia.
When I would like to start, just two more young girls sit outdoors at the table. I ask whether one of them can take photos of me by the start please. This acts one, while the other also wishes me a good journey.
The young people who live here still work not everything in the same group. Ken who commands everything here has every year workers for whom he provides a whole year of work. They work in different groups or only somewhere, however, are driven then there and are fetched again.
Thus I start and go past shortly after to the caravan park which I disdained with my arrival. But it should probably be like that, that I should get to know the young and very diligently in the chord working people and might also talk to them. It was very instructive for me.
The wind becomes almost a storm with wind force of at least 6 and then from the front. But well rested and it is still early in the morning with 18 ° C, it cycles quite well. The trucks and road trains can not shake me yet so much.
Them rushes with an infernal noise along me – actually, always with a safe distance – and lets dance me with my bicycle with its whirlwind in the storm that my white bicycle blouse becomes drawn high up in my back.
This recurs often and more and more often. Later most road trains and trucks come from the front on the other side. When the wind still blows from the front and then from the south, her whirlwind reaches me also always, but long not as strongly as that which overtakes me directly in my direction.
